Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Armageddon wasted.
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Leucadia, CA
    My Bikes
    Cinelli 84, Masi 83, Bareknuckle, GT Mach 1
    Posts
    244
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Skip-stopping on cottered cranks & Quandos!

    Hey y'alls.
    Just wondering if anyone's had bad luck skip-stopping or skidding with cottered cranks. Put together an old Fuji and I've noticed even after 1-2 miles I've gotta bang & tighten the (new) cotter pins. Wondering if they'll break if torqued into a full skid...
    Well, everyone's had bad luck with Quando hubs, but has anyone increased their lifespan with high-test Loctite and/or just given'er when tightening the lockring? Heard about vice-tightening, but I'm afraid of stripping the threads (not that the won't anyway, sooner or later). Any sound advice and/or recommendations on stronger hubs (on the cheap) would be appreciated.
    Thanks, buds.

  2. #2
    meet the mets chicagoamdream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Bucktown, Chicago
    My Bikes
    Raleigh conversion (hours spent making it look like a Pista); Porter Track, Samson Track, Leto Roadie.
    Posts
    1,554
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd be kinda wary about the cotter pins coming loose...I don't really have any experience with these, though. I think that, when properly adjusted and set-up, they're okay, but it doesn't sound like these are. LBS...or just get new cranks.

    Not going to get much cheaper than Formula hubs, and people like 'em. Wheelset's $150 on Nashbar.

    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...u=13712&brand=
    Quote Originally Posted by monkey
    You could be doing blow off a dead hooker with a needle sticking out of your arm and you wouldn't get kicked out of Humboldt.

  3. #3
    Me talk pretty one day. eyefloater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    2,073
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've sheered a cottered pin before. If at all possible, just get yourself a big-boy crankset and save yourself the hassle of having to tighten those things down every few weeks.

  4. #4
    robots in disguise beppe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Baghdad-by-the-Bay
    Posts
    305
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
    ...or just get new cranks.
    And a bottom bracket spindle, or a totally new bottom bracket. The spindle is an adventure -- there are 3 sizes of bb spindle for cottered cranks -- so getting a new cartridge is probably the way to go.
    Last edited by beppe; 12-07-05 at 12:39 PM.

  5. #5
    meet the mets chicagoamdream's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Bucktown, Chicago
    My Bikes
    Raleigh conversion (hours spent making it look like a Pista); Porter Track, Samson Track, Leto Roadie.
    Posts
    1,554
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    [QUOTE=beppe]
    Quote Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
    ...or just get new cranks. /QUOTE]

    And a bottom bracket spindle, or a totally new bottom bracket. The spindle is an adventure -- there are 3 sizes of bb spindle for cottered cranks -- so getting a new cartridge is probably the way to go.
    I agree. Another $20 for a Shimano sealed BB.
    Quote Originally Posted by monkey
    You could be doing blow off a dead hooker with a needle sticking out of your arm and you wouldn't get kicked out of Humboldt.

  6. #6
    loser
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    portland, or
    My Bikes
    steyr, lejeune, schwinn, sears, crescent, blah blah blah.
    Posts
    386
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You might think about avoiding skidding until you have something more than a minimally rugged drivetrain. maybe put those brakes back on.
    Try slowing down a bit until you've got $50 for a new BB and used cranks (or $25 for a used spindle/used cranks).
    for the hub, using a duraace cog (or similar) so you've got a nice wide threaded contact area will help you avoid stripping as opposed to a thinner cog. I'd say the duraace cog I use now has 50% more contact area of the surly one I used to use.
    Last edited by thechamp; 12-07-05 at 01:10 PM. Reason: correction

  7. #7
    i am sure that i hate you spud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    703
    My Bikes
    'Cha-ruzu Fosuta Orusan Kein' Fuji Track (2005), Schwinn Tank MTB (?), Fuji Royale (1979)
    Posts
    3,230
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    yeah get a new set of cranks/BB; if youre have problems already it will only get worse (speaking from experience).
    putting the pi back in pirate!
    Itís an upstanding member of the solar system
    Apply the laws of earth and make it a victim
    Of Proposition 187

  8. #8
    flaneur boots's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    ankle deep in the gowanus canal
    My Bikes
    IRO Mark V
    Posts
    591
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    cotters suck balls. no two ways about it. get some real cranks or you'll be real cranky.
    give me war redder than blood and fiercer than fire!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •