Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-14-06, 04:49 PM   #1
tylerhardie
infamyart
Thread Starter
 
tylerhardie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: denver, co
Bikes: one too many
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
rear dropout spacing 120mm hub in a 130mm?

Just a quick question. I'm building up a few conversion fixed gear bikes and was wondering about all the hubs and wheelsets that I've been finding are spaced 120mm a few at 126mm. Most are formula hubs and are 120mm. Will these work in a 130mm older road bike frame? Most of the road bike frames from the 1980's or so are 130mm and I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
tylerhardie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 04:51 PM   #2
AfterThisNap
Taking "s" outta "Fast"
 
AfterThisNap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Zoo York City
Bikes:
Posts: 1,989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
no, they wont fit without bending the frame a little bit on each side or finding a longer axle to fit the hubs.
AfterThisNap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 05:00 PM   #3
bostontrevor
Retrogrouch in Training
 
bostontrevor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Knee-deep in the day-to-day
Bikes:
Posts: 5,484
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
120mm over locknut dimension (you'll see it written as OLD) is standard track spacing. If it's a steel frame, you can respace the rear triangle to 120mm and be just fine.

If you don't want to do that, you should probably still have enough length on the stock axles. You'll just need some spacers. Any shop that deals with track or singlespeed stuff for the street (as opposed to a top dollar track specialty shop for trackies only) should be albe to set you up. Just put them between the cone and locknut, 5mm worth on each side, and you'll end up with a 130mm hub just like that. Voila!
bostontrevor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 05:02 PM   #4
11.4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 636
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Generally speaking, you can use a longer track axle with a few spacers. The Bicycle Research chromoly or stainless axles are excellent (and about $11-15 apiece) and most bike shops or www.biketoolsetc.com will have axle spacers in all kinds of widths. Your existing cones, locknuts, etc. by and large swap over without a problem. (Occasionally I can add spacers to an existing axle, but too often, especially with better hubs, there just isn't a lot of surplus length -- and weight -- left there.) With some current fixed gear hubs, the axles are nonstandard funky, either with ledges to support sealed bearings or with slightly different diameters (e.g., the cheap Suzue's). Note that you may need to put most of your spacers on the left side of the hub (and won't be able to flip a double-sided wheel at that point) because otherwise you'll bring the chainline inwards too far on the drive side.

Usually it's easier simply to reset your rear ends to 120 mm. Before you do so check your chain alignment again -- it may work a lot better or worse with one method or the other.
11.4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 05:55 PM   #5
bostontrevor
Retrogrouch in Training
 
bostontrevor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Knee-deep in the day-to-day
Bikes:
Posts: 5,484
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 11.4
With some current fixed gear hubs, the axles are nonstandard funky, either with ledges to support sealed bearings or with slightly different diameters (e.g., the cheap Suzue's). Note that you may need to put most of your spacers on the left side of the hub (and won't be able to flip a double-sided wheel at that point) because otherwise you'll bring the chainline inwards too far on the drive side.
This is not true. Different-sized bearings have no effect on the axle, it remains a consistent diameter. Even if that weren't true, the spacer simply slides on between the locknut and cone, so it's not really important. Those hubs that feature a sleeved axle like the Formula have the sleeve on the inside and spacing has no effect on their functionality. For those, such as the Pro Max, which have a sleeve that threads down from the outside, this acts just like an ordinary cone. Again, adding spacers has no impact.

Respacing should be uniform on both sides unless your frame is out of alignment or features a non-standard chainline. The chainline is measured from the center line of the bike. A road bike with a 130mm spaced rear triangle will have the same 42/43mm chainline as a 120mm spaced track bike. Respacing one side more than the other will shift the hub and thus chainline to one side or the other and screw things up for you.
bostontrevor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 06:17 PM   #6
ZappCatt
Back to being a Clyde....
 
ZappCatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Santa Clara
Bikes: Giant OCR1(specialized carbon seatpost,Terry Fly sadle, Syntace C2): Leader TT frame, Easton EC70fork, Aerolite bars, nashbar bullhorn, Titan Wheels: Fuji Track Pro(2003)
Posts: 1,546
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Regarding replacing the axle with a new/longer one.
Is there any quick/easy/basic way to determine what specs your current axle has?
When I went to Bike Tools, they have 3 different(yet very similar) standards.
9M,10M and 3/8'...along with 24 and 26tpi.

I am not sure which one I need...and since there is not a drastic difference in size my cheap calipers do not instill confidence that I would get the right one.
ZappCatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 06:31 PM   #7
cphfxt
current member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cph
Bikes: some- variety is good..
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
unscrew one of the bolts on your hub.. buy the axle it fits on , in the right lenght.. et voila..
cphfxt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 06:34 PM   #8
bostontrevor
Retrogrouch in Training
 
bostontrevor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Knee-deep in the day-to-day
Bikes:
Posts: 5,484
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Go to the shop and have them thread on a nut. Or, if your hub is known, ask them what the threading is on your hub.

Ain't standards wonderful? There are so many to choose from!
bostontrevor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-06, 06:47 PM   #9
ZappCatt
Back to being a Clyde....
 
ZappCatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Santa Clara
Bikes: Giant OCR1(specialized carbon seatpost,Terry Fly sadle, Syntace C2): Leader TT frame, Easton EC70fork, Aerolite bars, nashbar bullhorn, Titan Wheels: Fuji Track Pro(2003)
Posts: 1,546
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the help guys.

I was hoping there was some killer key to figure it out.
I would rather order online then try to run between shops trying to find someone who carries the axle.

My closest LBS are nice guys but have not stocked a SINGLE fixed/track item that I was interested in..and my other LBS is Performance..who of course will not have any of this cool stuff.

I know there are killer LBS' in SF, but I do not have the opportunity to get up there.
ZappCatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:28 AM.