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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 01-17-06, 08:20 PM   #1
nine
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centering your rear wheel

without tensioners? it usually takes me a bit to get the tension correct, but what drives me crazy is getting the thing perfectly centered. i actually measure the darn thing (i know i'm anal). any tips?
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Old 01-17-06, 08:43 PM   #2
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I pull back the wheel as far as possible, then slant the wheel towards the non drive chainstay(but not so much that the tire touches). I then tighten the non drive nut all the way down. After that, I push the back of the wheel so that it is centered, and tighten the drive side nut.

After doing this way for a while, I have learned how far off center I need the wheel to be when only one nut is tightened, to make it perfect in the end.
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Old 01-17-06, 10:01 PM   #3
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I use the same technique at popluhv. it just takes practice to get the chain to the right tension. I'm still working on it myself.
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Old 01-17-06, 10:26 PM   #4
absntr
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Same technique here though I do it in reverse -- I tighten the drive side then then non. It's definitely one of those "feel" things.
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Old 01-17-06, 10:28 PM   #5
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I do the non drive side, then the drive side. I've gotten it pretty close, but every now and then I have to go back one more time to the non drive side, loosen it up, center the wheel and tighten it back down.
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Old 01-18-06, 07:58 AM   #6
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any reason to choose non-drive side first??

i usually go driveside first. dial the tension in, tighten it; then adjust with the other side to center it in the drops.
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Old 01-18-06, 08:41 AM   #7
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I also do it the same way. someone mentioned the correct tension. i thought making the chain tight as possible was the correct tension, or am i wrong?
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Old 01-18-06, 08:44 AM   #8
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If you use a chain tensioner (Surly Tuggnut in my case):
1. Adjust the tensioner.
2. Tension and tighten the non-drive side nut.
3. Tighten the drive side nut.
This works quickly and perfectly every time.
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Old 01-18-06, 08:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodny71
I also do it the same way. someone mentioned the correct tension. i thought making the chain tight as possible was the correct tension, or am i wrong?
If it is super tight, you will wear out everything faster. It should be as tight as you can make it without causing it to make noise, or be able to feel each speck of dirt on the cog through your legs.
...I hope that makes sense.
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Old 01-18-06, 08:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max-a-mill
any reason to choose non-drive side first??

i usually go driveside first. dial the tension in, tighten it; then adjust with the other side to center it in the drops.
I find if I tighten the drive side first, it will loosen the chain when I center the wheel. For me, I have more control over chain tension by tightening the non-drive first. I can use the leverage of the wheel to fine tune it that way. But I wouldn't change your technique if it works for you.
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Old 01-18-06, 01:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popluhv
I find if I tighten the drive side first, it will loosen the chain when I center the wheel. For me, I have more control over chain tension by tightening the non-drive first. I can use the leverage of the wheel to fine tune it that way. But I wouldn't change your technique if it works for you.
I think you misunderstand. You tilt the wheel till it touches the drive-side chainstay, tighten the drive-side nut, then center the wheel and tighten the non-drive nut.

This is functionally the same as your technique.
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Old 01-18-06, 01:34 PM   #12
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As far as track ends go, is there any reason not to use chain tensioners?
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Old 01-18-06, 01:36 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bonelesschicken
As far as track ends go, is there any reason not to use chain tensioners?
you don't really need them...

it isn't really a GOOD reason but the one i use.
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