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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 02-06-06, 09:47 AM   #1
fordfasterr
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I removed the cheepy stamped lbs 15t cog from my road bike suzue hub and installed a 16t duraace cog..

I re-installed the lockring and found that it did not go in as deep as with the other cog... it turns out the duraace is a few mm thicker than the other cog..

so i tigten it all up and ride it ... about 10.5 miles down the road, i lock up the back and i don't stop !! then i'm freewheeling and going nowhere... thanks shimano ! =(

I stripped the lockring threads ...

so now I have a dead hub that I have to replace ... just got it a month + ago ... =(

I managed to get the lockring back on, and I used a liberal dose of thread locker (RED) on it ... I rode it to work and it was ok (didn't try to skid) ... and it was fine...

either way, I think I need a new hub .






Last edited by fordfasterr; 02-06-06 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 02-06-06, 09:52 AM   #2
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road hub with loctite or on a proper track hub? suicide wheel = you lost.
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Old 02-06-06, 09:57 AM   #3
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I was running a DA lockring when I stripped the lockring threads on my Eno hub. Is there some compatibility issue here that nobody's talking about?
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Old 02-06-06, 10:00 AM   #4
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Dude, Ford, you've been around here long enough to know that you've got to retighten that lockring after you've ridden a few miles (w/o backpedaling).

Suzue Jr, I assume? That was my first rear wheel, with DA cog and lockring, and I didn't have any problems at all.

Of course, requisite sympathy offered. It sucks.

edit: I've got DA lockrings on that Suzue wheel and a Forumula wheel. No problems.
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Old 02-06-06, 10:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
Suzue Jr, I assume? That was my first rear wheel, with DA cog and lockring, and I didn't have any problems at all.
Same wheel here: Suzue Jr., DA cog and lockring. It's been going on three years of solid use with no problems at all. I can't say enough for proper installation by proper mechanics.

Some things are worth having a shop do.
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Old 02-06-06, 10:14 AM   #6
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Add me to the list.
First bike: Suzue Jr. with DA.
Still working fine.
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Old 02-06-06, 10:21 AM   #7
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You're freaking me out a little. I have the Suzue rear wheel (not the Jr...the next one up...I forget the name...) and have a DA coming in the mail. Did you all have them installed by a mech, or will I be okay if I remember to follow all the steps?
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Old 02-06-06, 10:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfasterr
from my road bike suzue hub.
road hub? or a suzue track hub on a road frame?
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Old 02-06-06, 10:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flippin Sweet
You're freaking me out a little. I have the Suzue rear wheel (not the Jr...the next one up...I forget the name...) and have a DA coming in the mail. Did you all have them installed by a mech, or will I be okay if I remember to follow all the steps?

The original lockring that I had on there with the lbs cheepy stamped 15t cog was removed from a NIB bianchi pista.

I have since installed that lockring on my ebay track bike and only use it on the track.

I then installed the crappy no-name lockring from the ebay bike onto my suzue hub, and I think this may have been part of the problem..

but as I mentioned in the orignal post, I don't think the issue is the lockring, its the cog.. the DA cog is like 2 or 3 mm thicker than the other cog I had, and therefore the lockring cannot thread in as deep as before.

What I may try doing is shaving the DA cog down by 2 mm using a grinder .... that should give me enough space to get the lockring all the way in ...

We'll see... there is still " some bit " of threads left on the hub for the lockring... maybe it can be salvaged.
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Old 02-06-06, 10:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperRevue
Add me to the list.
First bike: Suzue Jr. with DA.
Still working fine.
+1

Professionally installed as well, even though I have all the tools to do it myself.
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Old 02-06-06, 10:55 AM   #11
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FordFaster I'm sorry 'bout your hub.

That said I wish there was a real standard on cog shoulder widths and threading. Seems everyones making gear which sort of works but is not the dialed-in gear we need. Its not rocket science but yet every manfacturer seems to have their variances. EAI seem to have the fewest issues so they get my vote.

I also 2nd the notion that you have to re-tighten the lockring after riding on an installed cog. Its just the way it is. Even if you rotafixed it. Even if you chain whipped it. It takes about 2mins to pull the wheel off, get your lockring wrench in there and then put it all back together. 2mins and you've got piece of mind for a long time.
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Old 02-06-06, 11:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixedpip
FordFaster I'm sorry 'bout your hub.

That said I wish there was a real standard on cog shoulder widths and threading. Seems everyones making gear which sort of works but is not the dialed-in gear we need. Its not rocket science but yet every manfacturer seems to have their variances. EAI seem to have the fewest issues so they get my vote.

I also 2nd the notion that you have to re-tighten the lockring after riding on an installed cog. Its just the way it is. Even if you rotafixed it. Even if you chain whipped it. It takes about 2mins to pull the wheel off, get your lockring wrench in there and then put it all back together. 2mins and you've got piece of mind for a long time.

I had it tightened... I use the screwdriver and hammer method to tighen it on.
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Old 02-06-06, 11:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfasterr
I had it tightened... I use the screwdriver and hammer method to tighen it on.
Guy walks into a bike shop, and asks to talk to the mechanic. he says "My hub strips when I do this" The mechanic says "Don't do that!"

Seriously man, get a proper lockring tool, or take it down to the bike shop to get them to do the final tightening. the screwdriver and hammer method is asking for trouble. Ride it up a couple of hills with no back pressure, then tighten that lockring on there good with the proper tool.

Which reminds me. I need to get a lockring wrench before I ride my new bike very far.
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Old 02-06-06, 11:13 AM   #14
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by that shot it doesn't look like you had your cog on tight in the first place. woops.
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Old 02-06-06, 11:21 AM   #15
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The new Surly lockrings have an extra lip that allows you to get more thread engagement if you have a thick cog that sticks out over the lockring threads. I think the new IRO ones have the same feature. Might be worth the time to look into it.
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Old 02-06-06, 11:58 AM   #16
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Ah, yes. I'm getting a better idea of the whole situation now. Since I don't have the proper tools, I SHALL take it to the lbs to get the cog/lockring on when it gets here (gaah! I'm sick of waiting for it! I want it now!) There is seriously nothing like the proper tools in this world of incompatible bike parts.
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Old 02-06-06, 12:14 PM   #17
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that lockring is on as tight as it will go without further damaging the threads on the hub...

and I know that it was on as tight as i could get it its just that it did not grab on to as many threads on the hub since the cog is so much thicker ...

i think i'm gonna grind the F out of the cog on my bench grinder when I get home today... that'll let me get that lockring in a few more turns and hopefully i'll be back in business ! =)
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Old 02-06-06, 12:27 PM   #18
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All I'm saying is that an unstripped Suzue Jr has sufficient threading for a DA cog and lockring. A thinner cog might allow the lockring to be screwed on further, but there was enough.

BFFGSS takes no responsibility for wheels with stripped threads and cogs with the F ground out of them, secured via hammer and screwdriver...FF, really, put a freewheel on this hub and start shopping for a new one...
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Old 02-06-06, 12:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
All I'm saying is that an unstripped Suzue Jr has sufficient threading for a DA cog and lockring. A thinner cog might allow the lockring to be screwed on further, but there was enough.

BFFGSS takes no responsibility for wheels with stripped threads and cogs with the F ground out of them, secured via hammer and screwdriver...FF, really, put a freewheel on this hub and start shopping for a new one...

I think you might have a point.

I am in the process of having a local frame builder make me a set of track wheels ... I will then swap my ebay wheels onto my FG conversion ....

those ebay hubs (no name) have plenty of thread on them to fully secure the lockring and DA cog...
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Old 02-06-06, 12:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfasterr
I think you might have a point.

I am in the process of having a local frame builder make me a set of track wheels ... I will then swap my ebay wheels onto my FG conversion ....

those ebay hubs (no name) have plenty of thread on them to fully secure the lockring and DA cog...
You'd be much better off. Or you could rotafix the hell out of the cog and use the wheel as a beater track wheel, since you wouldn't really be backpedalling.

But people'll always buy singlespeed wheels for the right price.
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Old 02-06-06, 01:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
You'd be much better off. Or you could rotafix the hell out of the cog and use the wheel as a beater track wheel, since you wouldn't really be backpedalling.

But people'll always buy singlespeed wheels for the right price.
SO you are saying that rotafix is NOT safe for street / rugged use ? LOL
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Old 02-06-06, 02:04 PM   #22
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Some Suzue hubs don't have deep cog threads. the nicer cogs are too thick like you say. The lockring WON'T thread on far enough and WILL pop off no matter how tight you get it.

IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE FULL STRENGTH IN ANY THREADED ASSEMBLY YOU MUST ENGAGE THREE THREADS. For a lockring with 24 threads per inch, divide 24 by 3. The answer is 8 so you need 1/8 inch engagement in order to achieve a FULL STRENGTH assembly.

Hope that makes sense. Don't reuse that hub, it's trash. I've got one just like it. They cna be had for about $20 if you look around. Not worth it even at that price.

later
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfasterr
I think you might have a point.

I am in the process of having a local frame builder make me a set of track wheels ... I will then swap my ebay wheels onto my FG conversion ....

those ebay hubs (no name) have plenty of thread on them to fully secure the lockring and DA cog...
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Old 02-06-06, 02:21 PM   #23
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tighten a cog without a chain whip (I busted my chainwhip trying to get my last cog on) - the rotafixa method ain't no bunk, except you possibly run the risk of cranking down your cog too tight:

http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

*edit*, whoops, I started writing this a while ago and missed the above replies.

I used a Hozan lockring tool for the first time last night (previously was using the crappy one that came in my lifu tool kit) and you can really get a lot of even leverage on a lockring. It was easy to feel like I was applying too much force on the lockring, and I had to go slow and easy, rather than pushing as hard as possible before it slipped off, which was the case with my last (adjustable, I think for bb cups) tool.
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Old 02-06-06, 02:26 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ieatrats
rather than pushing as hard as possible before it slipped off, which was the case with my last (adjustable, I think for bb cups) tool.
Park HCW, eh? Right there with you.
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Old 02-06-06, 04:53 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Doctor Who
+1

Professionally installed as well, even though I have all the tools to do it myself.
How does one "professionally" install a lockring?

Is there some character trait that prevents people from threading and tightening a simple lockring?

It frickin easier then waffles and syrup...........
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