Self Imposed conundrum
#1
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Self Imposed conundrum
After some generous help from Hyperevue, I think i diagnosed my drivetrain problem. apparantly i was an idiot and ordered a 1/8 cog for my new whelset on my 05 pista. It appears i am running a 1/8 cog with a 1/8 chain (that came with the bike) and a 3/32 chainring (that came with the bike).
{insert insulting remarks here]
now that we've established i'm a moron--whats the best way to fix this? Since i just got a new cog, i am temped to just get a new 1/8 chain and get a 1/8 chainring to replace the current 3/32 one, so as to have all matching components and a new drivetrain. My only concern is that i;ve heard 1/8 chainrings are tough to come by. The other option is obviously to purchase a new 3/32 cog and suck up the $20 i spent on the 1/8 one.
Which route is preferable and why
{insert insulting remarks here]
now that we've established i'm a moron--whats the best way to fix this? Since i just got a new cog, i am temped to just get a new 1/8 chain and get a 1/8 chainring to replace the current 3/32 one, so as to have all matching components and a new drivetrain. My only concern is that i;ve heard 1/8 chainrings are tough to come by. The other option is obviously to purchase a new 3/32 cog and suck up the $20 i spent on the 1/8 one.
Which route is preferable and why
#2
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Leave it as-is while you wait/beg for a good deal on a 1/8th chainring.
What BCD do you need?
Spécialités TA and Stronglight have them in 130
Miche has them in 135
DA/Sugino/Campy/FSA in 144
What BCD do you need?
Spécialités TA and Stronglight have them in 130
Miche has them in 135
DA/Sugino/Campy/FSA in 144
#3
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there's nothing really wrong with running a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" ring.
leave it as it is.
leave it as it is.
#5
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the only "problem" you are going to have is a little noise... just keep running it, wait until you happen to run across a good deal on a 1/8" chainring you would want, but don't rush for it.
#6
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as long as the chain is nicely lubed and the tension is ok you should be fine, i am running the same setup and it is silent.
#7
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Business Cycles -
For 130 mm. bolt circle pattern cranks:
Spécialités TA
Alize Piste 1/8"
40, 42, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 - $49.50
Stronglight
Track 1/8"
48 - $47.50
That said, it assumes you have the stock crank / 130BCD. I happen to have 1/8 on the Campy hubs on my Pista with RD's out front @ 3/32. Even though I am running the recommended 103mm BB, the crank is slightly inboard and I have noise from that. Over time I may try complete 1/8 vs 3/32 to see what is most quiet.
For 130 mm. bolt circle pattern cranks:
Spécialités TA
Alize Piste 1/8"
40, 42, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 - $49.50
Stronglight
Track 1/8"
48 - $47.50
That said, it assumes you have the stock crank / 130BCD. I happen to have 1/8 on the Campy hubs on my Pista with RD's out front @ 3/32. Even though I am running the recommended 103mm BB, the crank is slightly inboard and I have noise from that. Over time I may try complete 1/8 vs 3/32 to see what is most quiet.
#8
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Unless the 3/32" chainring is ramped/pinned, you aren't going to have any mechanical issues other than noise. Also, if you're an internet hawk, 1/8" chainrings are available at any well-stocked website. Personally, I would go to my LBS and have them order something. If they have an EAI account, they should have the option of pretty much any track chainring ever created.
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You'll be fine. I have a 1/8th on 3/32 set up cause that was the chain I could get at LBS when my chain exploided a few weeks back.
#10
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Originally Posted by salmonchild
as long as the chain is nicely lubed and the tension is ok you should be fine, i am running the same setup and it is silent.
I took it to an lbs to have the rear wheel installed to make sure the chain tension was good---i get a ton of clickety clack noise and and oaccassional "pop" at one point in the rotation---i'm at a loss here
#11
aka mattio
i used a somewhat new cog with an old chain, and when i put a new crankset/chainring on, the chain would not seat properly. clickety clackety, with the occasional pop.
measuring with the park tool didn't show the need for a new chain, but when i put a new chain on, there was no clickity clackety, and no pop.
measuring with the park tool didn't show the need for a new chain, but when i put a new chain on, there was no clickity clackety, and no pop.
#13
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+ 1 for everyone who said it's not a big deal. But, if you really want to fix it, and if money and availability are issues, it's probably easier to replace the cog with a 3/32 one. There are plenty out there in a variety of sizes, and none should run more than about $20. Add $12 for a run-of-the-mill road chain, and you are ready to rock. I've been running a 3/32 drivetrain on my bike for years without incident, and it makes it easier for me to cannibalize chainrings from abandoned ten-speeds.
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Originally Posted by skanking biker
I took it to an lbs to have the rear wheel installed to make sure the chain tension was good---i get a ton of clickety clack noise and and oaccassional "pop" at one point in the rotation---i'm at a loss here
#15
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This is by far the most frustrating lbs experience i have had. I took my bike back to the lbs that installed the cog and locking over my lunch hour, told them about the problem, and said i wanted to order a new chain and chainring---the guy looks at the bike tells me my chain is too tight--pinching in places while slack in other and that my chainline is messed up. I asked him well what do i need to do to fix it. He tells me he needs to see the old wheelset to compare--i look at him quisically. He then lookes at my hub--its a fixed/free, and asks if the drivetrain side looks the same as the other side--i said "no, its a fixed/free" He says, "what do you mean." I say "its got two sets of threads" HE says "why is that" I said "because the lockring is reverse threaded" He said "why is it reverse threaded" I say--"so things dont spin off when you apply back pressure." He says "well why are you applying back pressure?"
He then proceeds to tell me that i need to "play around with it" and should juts put the old wheelset back on--i said i dont want the old wheelset. I said i dont have many bike tools and thats why i brought it here and am willing to pay to have you fix it. I then inquire as to whether a new chain or chainring would help. He says "well its hard to say--they dont make track stuff anymore"---He then asked why i am riding a track bike.
I told him i had to go back to work--what a waste of a lunch hour
He then proceeds to tell me that i need to "play around with it" and should juts put the old wheelset back on--i said i dont want the old wheelset. I said i dont have many bike tools and thats why i brought it here and am willing to pay to have you fix it. I then inquire as to whether a new chain or chainring would help. He says "well its hard to say--they dont make track stuff anymore"---He then asked why i am riding a track bike.
I told him i had to go back to work--what a waste of a lunch hour
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Venting about yer LBS will get you into trouble around here. Shame on your elitist all-knowing ass.
lol
lol
#19
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actually, i went to the lbs because i DONT know what i am doing--but what little i know is apparently more that what this guy knew
#20
hello
Simply eyeball your chainline to see if it's off. If it's off by a millimeter or two, no biggie...
If your chain has a 1/4" or so total slack, you're ok. Use your finger and pull up on the chain at mid length and see for yourself.
If your chain has a 1/4" or so total slack, you're ok. Use your finger and pull up on the chain at mid length and see for yourself.
#21
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nice echo
#22
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
Simply eyeball your chainline to see if it's off. If it's off by a millimeter or two, no biggie...
If your chain has a 1/4" or so total slack, you're ok. Use your finger and pull up on the chain at mid length and see for yourself.
If your chain has a 1/4" or so total slack, you're ok. Use your finger and pull up on the chain at mid length and see for yourself.
Should I eyeball your chainline to see if it's off?
#25
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