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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 04-11-06, 05:18 PM   #1
B17
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Need Bianchi San Jose Hub Recommendations!

They can be double-sided, so long as one side is free. I just got a Bianchi San Jose ss/cx frameset. It's 130mm in the back and probably cannot get to 42mm on the front because of the wider stays. Problem is, most 130mm hubs are made for a 42mm chainline, and I think this one was made for 52mm MTB SS spacing in front. Every wheelset I've come across, from IRO to Paul, uses hubs that either have 42mm chainline or 135mm spacing. I need a wheelset with 130mm spacing and 52mm chainline.

Any wheelset recommendations/ideas? My last resort will be either sending the frame out to be cold-set respaced to 135, or trying a road cassete wheel with cog spacers and one of those nashbar bolt-on skewers. Anyone had experience keeping a ss/fixed wheelin place with those? Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-11-06, 05:33 PM   #2
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You could try a normal road hub with a Surly fixxer, though I'm not sure what kind of a chainline that will leave you with. Anybody using a fixxer have any measurements?
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Old 04-11-06, 05:41 PM   #3
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aren't Paul hubs 45-46mm?
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Old 04-11-06, 05:49 PM   #4
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How about this: Cold-set the frame to like 140mm. It's actually really easy and you can do it yourself at home with some careful measuring and a big two-by-four for leverage. Cold-setting is actually just a fancy term for somewhat carefully bending your rear stays to a slightly different position. (This is assuming you have a steel frame. Carbon, aluminum, etc. are a whole different ball game with regards to cold-setting)

With the super-wide frame, now score yourself a simple flip-flop hub with 120mm spacing and an extra-long axle (Formula, etc.) and space the non-drive side out to get an off-center 140mm spaced hub. The 42mm chainline now becomes a 52mm chainline, and you have one weird-looking rear wheel. The wheel will have to be dished to get the rim centered on the (no-longer symmetrical) axle, but probably no more than most road wheels are.

edit: changed the numbers slightly to fix my math. 140mm instead of my previously stated 145mm should work perfectly.
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Old 04-11-06, 05:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
You could try a normal road hub with a Surly fixxer, though I'm not sure what kind of a chainline that will leave you with. Anybody using a fixxer have any measurements?
I'm not interested in fixing this one. It'll be SS only, for singletrack and general 'round town riding. Damn Bianchi for their inconsiderate design. If they'd spaced at 135 like almost everyone else who makes a cx bike, replacing the stock wheelset would be no prob. In fact, I'd use the stock wheelset even tho I've heard it isn't very nice, but I don't have the wheelset- the auction was for the frameset, HS, stem & BB only.

Quote:
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aren't Paul hubs 45-46mm?
Yeah, but they're 135.
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Old 04-11-06, 05:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacG
How about this: Cold-set the frame to like 140mm. It's actually really easy and you can do it yourself at home with some careful measuring and a big two-by-four for leverage. Cold-setting is actually just a fancy term for somewhat carefully bending your rear stays to a slightly different position. (This is assuming you have a steel frame. Carbon, aluminum, etc. are a whole different ball game with regards to cold-setting)
The frame's steel, that'll be no problem. I thought about cold-setting, and that may be the best solution. But I'd rather have someone like Spicer in Indiana or Wildframe in ATL do that- (I assume) they have the measuring stuff to make sure the frame's aligned. I don't trust myself to get it perfect.

But I'm posting here to find out if anyone knows about a wheelset I can just go and buy so I don't have to send the frame out. If I do have it done, I'll likely go to 135, which will give me enough 52mm chainline options to work with. Kogswell and Surly hubs come to mind, and I'm certain there are more.
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Old 04-11-06, 06:02 PM   #7
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Can a 135 Phil hub be respaced with a 130 axle?
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Old 04-14-06, 05:43 AM   #8
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Paul high flange hubs are available spaced 120, 130, and 135.
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Old 04-14-06, 06:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B17
They can be double-sided, so long as one side is free. ...

... or trying a road cassete wheel with cog spacers and one of those nashbar bolt-on skewers. Anyone had experience keeping a ss/fixed wheelin place with those? Thanks in advance!
Okay, sorry I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a flip-flop. I take back my recommendation of the fixxer, and say go with the road wheel with cog+spacers, and get a chain tug to keep the wheel in place. That will allow you to keep a QR skewer, and keep chain tension, and good chainline. Also, it is easy and cheap.
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Old 04-14-06, 10:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Okay, sorry I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a flip-flop. I take back my recommendation of the fixxer, and say go with the road wheel with cog+spacers, and get a chain tug to keep the wheel in place. That will allow you to keep a QR skewer, and keep chain tension, and good chainline. Also, it is easy and cheap.
if its only going to be a SS I think aeroplane has it right
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Old 04-14-06, 10:58 AM   #11
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I think WI ENO hubs are variable spaced and have a 48 mm chainline.
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Old 04-14-06, 11:40 AM   #12
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umm.. yeah, just get any road freehub and a cassette cog that will give you the ratio you want, then fill up the rest of the freehub body with spacers and you can put the cog wherever the heck on the freehub body you want, getting whatever chainline you want.
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Old 04-14-06, 05:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Okay, sorry I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a flip-flop. I take back my recommendation of the fixxer, and say go with the road wheel with cog+spacers, and get a chain tug to keep the wheel in place. That will allow you to keep a QR skewer, and keep chain tension, and good chainline. Also, it is easy and cheap.
That's the ticket. Thanks a lot!
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