JOHN J

whats up evryone. I hope all is well

I have a very pretty lugged 531 frame falcon road bike that I canabilized to build up my cross check commuter.

long story short My cross check is now all new components SO I can put the Blue falcon back together
again.

I was thinking a SS would be great for quick fun rides ...

My wheels are campy rims with 7 speed 105 hubs so I will use spacers and a cog, that said I have some other questions If you would all be so kind.

1) I have a 105 crank 52/39 what ring would be better to use? I hear 42 is the norm but I dont have one. If I have to Ill get 42 but if I can use the 52 or 39 that would be nice. inside or outside ring better?? Need stack bolts ...??

2) its pretty hilly around my part of town so what is a good cog for rear (depending on crank of course)

3) The blue falcon has horizontal drop outs would I still need a tenioner ? or is it easier to have one??

4) Bars: I have a set of drops but noticed MANY SS and fixie folks prefer moustache or Bull horns
any advantage with SS in mind or are drops fine?

thats it for now the bike should go together pretty quick once I have a few particulars worked out.

many thanks

"John"

arcellus

1. i'd use the 39. if it's in good shape, no need for a new ring. you'll probably need new bolts as a single ring will be thinner than the two you've got on there now. probably about $5 for a set at your lbs. if you're spacing out the rear hub, it doesn't really matter whether you go inside or out - whatever's easiest to get a good chainline.

2. with a 39 on the front, i'd do around a 14 in the back. i run 42/14 on my fix and it's just a little hilly here. the lower gear would probably be nice.

3. probably don't need a tensioner, as long as you can clamp the rear wheel down securely.

4. fixie folks like bullhorns and mustache bars for the extra torque they can get with the different hand position (at least, that's why i've used them). that said, you'll probably be fine with the drops you have. try 'em and see if you like 'em.

that's my $.02

mattface 

1. I'd go with the 39 because there are more useable gearing options with the rear SS

2. On a fixie 70 gear inches is pretty good for hills. I would go a bit lower with SS

3. No need for a tensioner, and no advantage from running one when you don't need it. just adds weight and drag

4. Drops are fine. They have all the same advantages n a ss that they do on a geared bike. Some people just like risers.

Aeroplane

1. I'll buck the trend and say 52. With spacers and a cog, chainline is adjustable, so that's not a factor. And with a cog, you can easily go to 25t, which will let you spin your heart out. Also, more chain = less chain wear. Furthermore, bigger chainrings look badass, regardless of how big the cog is.

2. I'd say a 19t cog would do well. 52-18 would be my choice on a fix, but you want to gear down a little, since you can coast.

3. Tensioners are lame, don't use one if you don't have to. And you don't have to. Chain tugs, on the other hand, may prove useful, especially with a QR hub.

4. Keep your drops and both brakes, especially if you're already used to it. A plethora of hand positions is always good.

Cynikal 

To answer the bullhorn question, I like bullhorns on my fix because of the lack of hoods. On my road bike I'm generally on the hoods so it's a natural transition.

As for gearing, with the spacer route you have tons of options for gearing. I doubt your first choice will be your last, play with it and find what works for you. You will probably need shorter stack bolts, look for BMX ones.

Don't bother with a tensioner, they suck and you don't need one with your dropouts.

Good Luck and report back.

arcellus

do you find big chainrings to be flexy? i put a 52 on my fix for a while and thought it felt sort of.. well, flexy. that could have been my imagination.

Aeroplane

Nope. But then again, as much as people complain about how noodley different cranks, bars, stems, etc. are, I've never had a problem. Both my fixes use threaded stems (notorious for flex!) and one has chop flops from old AL drops (probably notorious for flex also). Cranks are Sugino RD's (rubber city) and some Coda MTB cranks (no idea). And I haven't noticed a problem with any of it.

JOHN J

thanks for the inputs,

Aeroman,

I like the idea of leaving the 52 on, I noticed On The Harris website Sheldon uses a 52/20 road /hilly area (my situation for the most part).

what about standard cassete gears? I know the ramps can cause trouble but is it absolute, could I surface grind the ramp down a bit or smooth them out so they dont grab?

I noticed the shimano BMX cogs only go as high as 18, id need a 19 or 20 , I would be VERY surprised if any LBS in my area carried anything but the shimano BMX cogs , Ill call.

Im not opposed to ordering online but it does get tiring, Good LBS are hard to find at least one like Harris thats willing to do non mainstream stuff . But again they have to make money too and Lance bikes are where its at.

I have plenty of stuff from broken up cassetes, though I can see the benifit of the "Non shifting" type of gear. Maybe Ill use the hyperglides I have untill I find a good size then get a Proper SS "Cog".

many thanks

"John"

Aeroplane

If they have a QBP catalog (and any shop that doesn't is a rarity), they can order you a Surly Cassette cog. Surly's go as high as 22t. If you are willing to go online, endless cogs (from www.endlessbikes.com) go up to 25t, and have a stellar reputation. Each will probably run you about $30, but considering the quality of the cogs over your Shimano DX cogs, it's worth it.

If you decide that you want to drop coin on something that will last forever, Boone Ti makes Titanium cogs to order. Any size. Also, I think Spicer sells Ti cogs as well.