daily negativity:
04-30-06, 06:25 PM
#1
like, really sloppy
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daily negativity:
chain tugs.... hate 'em.
is it really that hard to center a wheel with correct tension?
is it really that hard to center a wheel with correct tension?
04-30-06, 06:29 PM
#3
like, really sloppy
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Originally Posted by kennethalan
It's not hard. They just make it easier.
They say NJS on them also. Bling.
They say NJS on them also. Bling.
04-30-06, 06:34 PM
#6
like, really sloppy
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Originally Posted by raygunner
My UNO frame was 123 spaced so I should used them but I never did.
04-30-06, 06:36 PM
#7
domestic goddess
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i'm thinking i'm going to need a pair for the surly since no matter how tight i wrench on it, the chain always, always ends up bouncy and slack. not good.
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04-30-06, 06:39 PM
#8
downtube shifter
Originally Posted by sloppy robot
can you explain that? i didnt know spacing had anything to do with it.
The axle washer on the MKS chain tugs are 1.5mm thick each.
1.5 + 1.5 = 3mm
Many Keirin frames have 123mm spacing.
04-30-06, 06:42 PM
#9
like, really sloppy
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Originally Posted by Jose R
The axle washer on the MKS chain tugs are 1.5mm thick each.
1.5 + 1.5 = 3mm
Many Keirin frames have 123mm spacing.
1.5 + 1.5 = 3mm
Many Keirin frames have 123mm spacing.
04-30-06, 06:43 PM
#10
dc pirate, 4evah.
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i'm anti-tensioners. they're just clutter. i can tension my chain myself.
04-30-06, 06:45 PM
#11
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tensioning and centering are a lot more precise with tugs. they also prevent the axle from slipping, making readjustment less frequent.
it's also a bit faster than the side to side tightning and loosening method
it's also a bit faster than the side to side tightning and loosening method
04-30-06, 06:46 PM
#12
GG + Wendy O. 4EVA
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Originally Posted by sloppy robot
ah.. i have heard that before.. but you could also just use hub spacers, ya?
Dude, I don't ride a conversion! Haha!
But my point is that I never did use those silly MKS chain tugs. They'd never allow me to put the wheel all the way foward into the drops (know what I mean?). They subtracted from my fun. So on my UNO I just squeezed the extra 3mm together! Good times!
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04-30-06, 06:48 PM
#13
GG + Wendy O. 4EVA
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PS - I do like the new MKS chain tugs more since you can used your finger, there's no need for a hex wrench. I also used to like those Surly ones too since they're simple.
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04-30-06, 06:59 PM
#14
downtube shifter
Originally Posted by sloppy robot
ah.. i have heard that before.. but you could also just use hub spacers, ya?
You could use bubblegum for all I care, but the point I was making is that some of the Keirin frames were spaced specifically for use of MKS chain tensioners.
But my point is that I never did use those silly MKS chain tugs. They'd never allow me to put the wheel all the way foward into the drops (know what I mean?).
MKS chain tensioners are useful. I never felt they hindered my ability to put my back wheel wherever I damn well pleased.
i'm anti-tensioners. they're just clutter. i can tension my chain myself.
The best system is the Paul Components track ends. My LBS mechanic loves them. The second best is MKS.
04-30-06, 07:11 PM
#15
worst luck ever
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Originally Posted by chimblysweep
i'm anti-tensioners. they're just clutter. i can tension my chain myself.
my bell, and blinkin' light on my seatpost are two too many things complicating a simple track bike.
04-30-06, 07:31 PM
#20
dig dig dig
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Originally Posted by ~stella
i agree.
my bell, and blinkin' light on my seatpost are two too many things complicating a simple track bike.
my bell, and blinkin' light on my seatpost are two too many things complicating a simple track bike.
04-30-06, 07:32 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by sloppy robot
chain tugs.... hate 'em.
is it really that hard to center a wheel with correct tension?
is it really that hard to center a wheel with correct tension?
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04-30-06, 07:44 PM
#24
Senior Member
Oh yes, you *must* tighten your chain with a multi-step process that involves skill, time investment and practice. Otherwise, you're not true fixed-gear culture.
04-30-06, 07:47 PM
#25
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certain wheels will slide forward no matter the amount of dry humping involved during nut tightening. the mavic ellipse is one good example. i have used mine on various frames, made of various materials and have been able to produce a droopy chain within a few minutes of riding on each. the super smooth locknut surface probably has something to do with it.