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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

3/32

Old 05-03-06, 02:56 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Hobartlemagne
The chain was brand new- I had to return it for a singlespeed style chain
Because the Miche cogs are 1/8" wide. They don't make one that is 3/32"
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Old 05-03-06, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hobartlemagne
Nope- i really do mean teeth 'too long'. I had a multi-speed style chain, and you couldnt wrap the chain around more than about 3 teeth. Past that the teeth were too long. The singlespeed chains have a bit more space to accomodate the longer teeth.
That's because the teeth are tapered. Only the tips of the teeth of 1/8'' cogs fit width-wise into 3/32'' chain. Both chains are 1/2'' pin to pin.
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Old 05-03-06, 03:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by vobopl
That's because the teeth are tapered. Only the tips of the teeth of 1/8'' cogs fit width-wise into 3/32'' chain. Both chains are 1/2'' pin to pin.
+1. vobopl wins.
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Old 10-19-06, 11:02 PM
  #29  
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Currently using a 1/8" chain. Can I use a 3/32" chain on this drivetrain?
- Sugino RD-48 crank
- Soma cog

Should I get an 8-speed chain, as opposed to a 10-sp chain?
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Old 10-19-06, 11:06 PM
  #30  
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Should I get an 8-speed chain, as opposed to a 10-sp chain?
Yes.

After using 1/8 stuff for a while i've come to the conclusion that 3/32 is better for the following reasons:

1) chainrings abound in plenty, 3/32
2) 1/8 is noisier than 3/32

#2 is the deal kicker
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Old 10-20-06, 01:09 AM
  #31  
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*note to self* don't trust Hobartlemagne on tech issues. All chains are 1/2".

I'd have no problem using any decent quality chain I can get my hands on, if it fits the cog. It's a zillion times more important to have a cog with nice tall teeth and proper chain tension.
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Old 10-20-06, 01:23 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by serpico7
Currently using a 1/8" chain. Can I use a 3/32" chain on this drivetrain?
- Sugino RD-48 crank
- Soma cog

Should I get an 8-speed chain, as opposed to a 10-sp chain?
The problem with 10 speed chains is that the plates are thinner to fit in the narrow spacing of a 10 speed cluster. The 8 speed chain will have slightly thicker plates which means it will be stronger and less likely to wear out the pins. As for weather or not you can use the 3/32 chain, it depends. Both the cog and chainring should have the size listed on them. If they are 3/32, you can use the thin chain. If either one is 1/8, you need to use the 1/8 chain. As far as I know, the stock RD chainring is 3/32, but the soma cogs are available in both 3/32 and 1/8, so you'll have to check.
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Old 10-20-06, 04:47 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Landgolier
I think you mean too wide. Miche quick change is 1/8"
They have recently began to produce 3/32" cogs.

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Old 10-20-06, 08:12 AM
  #34  
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KMC 610

3/32 chain for SS/BMX

https://www.thepathbikeshop.com/pg/catalog/iid/392
https://www.irocycle.com/drivetrain.htm

You don't have to settle for a multispeeder
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Old 10-20-06, 08:23 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ieatrats
Sheldon talks about it and specifically recommends not using 1/8" drivetrains because the technology, competition etc for normal narrow chains makes them likely to have better manufacturing standards and less expensive, in addition to being lighter and 1/8" offering no advantage because of its width.

No but 1/8" teeth are much better suited to the stresses of ss/fg riding because of the extra width and a 1/8" chain offers increased compatability when you decide to change gears.
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Old 10-20-06, 09:29 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dutret
No but 1/8" teeth are much better suited to the stresses of ss/fg riding because of the extra width ....
I was thinking the same. It's somewhat hilly where i live, and my 3/32" chainrings all have serious dimpling problems and I have to file burs fairly regularly (well, I should at least). My chainrings really don't seem like they are going to last long. 1/8" chainrings with their larger contact patch with the chain should be more resistant to dimpling, but I haven't tried any yet so I can't say for sure if it really makes all that big of a difference. Has anyone used both and notice a significant difference in chainring wear?

d
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Old 10-20-06, 09:34 AM
  #37  
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This thread should win a prize for density of misinformation. Maybe there should be a test before people are allowed to use the internet.
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Old 10-20-06, 09:35 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Folks, 1/8" chain is way heavier. There's no way I'd run that when I could just have a 3/32" drivetrain and save 20 grams. Unless it's Ti...
Most fixies I've seen are old heavy steel conversions. Weight is the last factor.
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Old 10-20-06, 10:00 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by vandeda
I was thinking the same. It's somewhat hilly where i live, and my 3/32" chainrings all have serious dimpling problems and I have to file burs fairly regularly (well, I should at least). My chainrings really don't seem like they are going to last long. 1/8" chainrings with their larger contact patch with the chain should be more resistant to dimpling, but I haven't tried any yet so I can't say for sure if it really makes all that big of a difference. Has anyone used both and notice a significant difference in chainring wear?

d
Huh? What the hell is "dimpling"? Your chainring develops indentations? If the leading edge of each chainring tooth is wearing down [and the teeth are getting sharpened], replace your chainring and check your chain for stretch. Sheldon is on the right track with his ideas about 3/32" chains being ultimately stronger. The rivets on multi-speed chains are stronger [typically] than 1/8" chains, as they have to handle higher torque levels as well as side-loading. I'd run SRAM [Sachs] 8 or 9-speed chains, as they last a long time, aren't too pricey and can be broken/re-connected easier than Shimano, IMHO.
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Old 10-20-06, 10:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Falkon
Most fixies I've seen are old heavy steel conversions. Weight is the last factor.
WOOSH! That was the sound of sarcasm going right over your head.
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Old 10-20-06, 10:42 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by thurstonboise
Because the Miche cogs are 1/8" wide. They don't make one that is 3/32"
That's funny, cause I have a 3/32 Miche cog at home.
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Old 10-20-06, 11:21 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by pinkrobe
Huh? What the hell is "dimpling"? Your chainring develops indentations? If the leading edge of each chainring tooth is wearing down [and the teeth are getting sharpened],
The 48t chainring that came with the Sugino RD crank 'dimpled' in the first 100mi of use or less. The inside edge of the tooth and on the teeth that carry the load where is is applied for starting/sprinting/hill climbing squished and created burrs. This was not friction wear. After the initial squishing, things settled in.

Al
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Old 10-20-06, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pinkrobe
Huh? What the hell is "dimpling"? Your chainring develops indentations? If the leading edge of each chainring tooth is wearing down [and the teeth are getting sharpened], replace your chainring and check your chain for stretch.

nope it happens with new chain, new cog and new chainring in a few dozen miles. For a bigger stronger rider the increased stress put on the teeth mashing up hills and skidding to stops will press many Al 3/32" teeth out of shape. Since this leads to the teeth not meshing evenly with the chain the whole system ends up being less smooth and wearing faster.
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