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  1. #1
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Cannondale + Miche

    So, ordering a Miche BB for my Cannondale track frame and I need some help with spindle length.
    I've read on here that 107mm is the prescribed spindle length for Miche cranks, is that true?
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  2. #2
    looking, listening
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    According to the Business Cycles tech specs 107mm is right.
    http://www.businesscycles.com/tr-refspec.htm#cranks
    It's a broken record, but it's a good record.

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    Cornucopia of Awesomeness baxtefer's Avatar
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    didn't you start this thread 2 days ago?

    you have 3 options:

    107mm Miche - you'll have to use the adjustability of the rings to dial in the chainline
    102mm campy works OK
    105mm phil
    {o,o**
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    O RLY?

  4. #4
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    That was about Miche cranks in general.
    This one is about Miche BB with a Cannondale frame, specifically.

    It was the multiple options for Miche BB spindle length that confused me.
    Last edited by hyperRevue; 05-08-06 at 08:16 PM.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  5. #5
    Senior Member mattface's Avatar
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    the frame shouldn't make a difference, but the hub might. 107 is the prescribed length designed for 42mm chainline. what's the chainline on your hub?

  6. #6
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Ummmm....hehe, it's 120mm spacing.
    So, according to Business Cycles, that's 107mm.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  7. #7
    Senior Member mattface's Avatar
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    120mm spacing and chainline aren't the same thing. I know I'm not an advocate of stickies, but this page should probably be stickied because there is SO much useful info about chainline on it, and it comes up all the time.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html#hubs

    You'll find a table of cranks/BB/chainline it's not complete, but there are a lot of cranks on there, and a table of singlespeed/FG hubs with the chainline specs. Chances are you'll find your hub there.

  8. #8
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Ugh...nashbar hub isn't on there.
    Of everything fixed related, chainline is my final frontier of understanding.

    So, that Business Cycles link says, "Renders manufacturers' suggested chainline for contemporary rear track hubs with 120 mm over-locknut spacing" and lists 107mm for Miche cranks.

    So, anyone know the chainline for a Nashbar hub?
    I couldn't find it here: http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
    But that doesn't mean that it's not there.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  9. #9
    Senior Member mattface's Avatar
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    It's probably close to 42mm, but maybe someone who's got one can be more precise.

  10. #10
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Okay, so assuming it is close to 42mm, what doea that now mean for the spindle length.

    (ugh, I can't believe I'm one of those posters)
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  11. #11
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    I'm starting to figure this out.
    I got my cog chainline (7.05)
    But now, how do I measure the chainline center to shoulder of my hub?
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  12. #12
    antisocialite dirtyphotons's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hyperRevue
    Okay, so assuming it is close to 42mm, what doea that now mean for the spindle length.

    (ugh, I can't believe I'm one of those posters)
    i find that when i assume i end up buying the wrong part. i usually measure with calipers for accuracy.

  13. #13
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Okay, so how do I measure center to shoulder chainline on my hub?
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  14. #14
    1FG the locust's Avatar
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    hyper - i am running nashbar hubs on my black schwinn the chainline comes out right at 42.5 or something like that and unless you are buying a phill BB just go with the 107 and call it good enough. i ran with a 107 un53 for a year before i switched to a phill and neither gave me any problems. although with the miche you should be able to adjust the bb a bit as well to tweak the chainline. and FYI the nashbar hub is basically a formula hub.

    Everyone collects something. I had a roommate in college that collected venereal diseases. Stephen Hawking collects dust. And I collect Bikes
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  15. #15
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Ah, finally!
    Thanks, Locust.

    I thought the cutouts were differernt on the nashbar and formula? Aw well.
    Thanks again.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  16. #16
    antisocialite dirtyphotons's Avatar
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    i find that center-to-shoulder chainline is a useful number if i'm trying to avoid measuring things. i add that number to the chainline of the sprocket if i want to calculate a chainline without measuring anything. center-to-shoulder distance is very hard to measure, even with calipers so here's what you should do.

    measure distance from flange center to flange center and divide by two. then measure the distance from the center of the drive-side flange to the center of the teeth on the cog. add those two and you've got your total chainline (no need for sheldon's charts).

    EDIT: ignore all that. locust's got you covered

  17. #17
    1FG the locust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hyperRevue
    Ah, finally!
    Thanks, Locust.

    I thought the cutouts were differernt on the nashbar and formula? Aw well.
    Thanks again.
    they are differnt cutouts but they are made in the same factory. and they have the same flange height and width as formulas

    Everyone collects something. I had a roommate in college that collected venereal diseases. Stephen Hawking collects dust. And I collect Bikes
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  18. #18
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyphotons
    i find that center-to-shoulder chainline is a useful number if i'm trying to avoid measuring things. i add that number to the chainline of the sprocket if i want to calculate a chainline without measuring anything. center-to-shoulder distance is very hard to measure, even with calipers so here's what you should do.

    measure distance from flange center to flange center and divide by two. then measure the distance from the center of the drive-side flange to the center of the teeth on the cog. add those two and you've got your total chainline (no need for sheldon's charts).

    EDIT: ignore all that. locust's got you covered
    Locust does have me covered, but thanks. I'll keep that in mind for future builds.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  19. #19
    King Among Runaways hyperRevue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the locust
    they are differnt cutouts but they are made in the same factory. and they have the same flange height and width as formulas
    Gotcha.
    Thanks again.
    "I owe everyone an apology" - hyperrevue

  20. #20
    Cornucopia of Awesomeness baxtefer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the locust
    they are differnt cutouts but they are made in the same factory. and they have the same flange height and width as formulas
    Nashbar hubs aren't formulas. they're Joytech/Novatecs. and they have completely different hub shells, not just cutouts.

    Hyper, if you get the Miche BB, you can adjust the chainline anyway. So don't worry about measuring stuff yet.
    {o,o**
    |)__)
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    O RLY?

  21. #21
    1FG the locust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baxtefer
    Nashbar hubs aren't formulas. they're Joytech/Novatecs. and they have completely different hub shells, not just cutouts.

    Hyper, if you get the Miche BB, you can adjust the chainline anyway. So don't worry about measuring stuff yet.
    you are correct about the manufacturer, but the flange height and width are still the same. so as far as chainline is concerned they are functionally the same.

    Everyone collects something. I had a roommate in college that collected venereal diseases. Stephen Hawking collects dust. And I collect Bikes
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