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  1. #1
    Tr00 GrimKvlt!!! Hathegkla's Avatar
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    building wheel with White Industries Fixed/Free HUB

    So I'm a total bike noob (if you remember my last post ) anyway I recently purchased a Redline Conquest (which has vertical dropouts). What I want to do is build a back wheel with one of those "White Industries Fixed/free" hubs. I was reading their web site and it said that the best way to get proper alignment was with a “Sugino RD crank” with a Shimano 110 bottom bracket to get the "ideal" chainline of 47.5mm the hub was designed for. I'm most likely going with this setup (unless you have any better suggestions) but I noticed that there were some additional options when ordering the hub.

    They come on 135, 130 and 126mm. the 130mm says for 9speed and up (the bike would have been originally a 9 speed so that sounds right). and they come in 32, 28 and 36 hole (lost here). so I'm not sure what to get. I still need a rim and spokes but I need to know what to order so. I have an old rim that I think would work. it was a shimano 105 rear wheel but some of the spokes are broken. any advice would be nice, I'd be having a shop actually putting the spokes on.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member Grunk's Avatar
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    Get the 130 hub. 32 hole is the most common and should work fine for you. Get a new rim (building up wheels with old rims is a pain). I'd get a 32 hole Mavic Open Pro or MA3. Have the shop that's going to build the wheel build it 3 cross. You'll be good to go.

  3. #3
    don't pedal backwards... MacG's Avatar
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    What Grunk said.

    Don't bother with a used rim unless you know that it's mint. A bent or otherwise screwy wheel (like broken spokes is a sign of) is just a recipe for a nightmare. Paying $35 for a brand new rim is cheap insurance against insanity. Some bike shops won't reuse your old rims when building wheels for these reasons.

    What size tire are you going to be using on this wheel? You should (roughly) match up the tire and rim for compatability. I don't know what the rule of thumb is, but check with the bike shop to make sure that whatever rim you end up using isn't too narrow or wide for the tire you have in mind.

    As for hole count, all you really need to do is match the count between the rim and the hub, and then get that many spokes (of the right length). If you're having a shop do the actual build, they can tell you what will and won't work.

    +1 on the three-cross spoke pattern recommendation, too.

    If in doubt on the axle width, just grab a ruler and measure the distance between the inside faces of the rear dropouts. If you don't have a metric ruler, 130mm is between 5" and 5-1/8". mm / 25.4 = inches

    I run RD cranks and like them a lot. Some people will try to tell you that they feel flexy, but I can't tell. I doubt you nor I race on the track or anything, so they should work great for you. Shimano's cartridge BBs are pretty bulletproof and pretty cheap when compared to something like a Phil Wood BB.

    Good luck on the build, and keep us posted.
    from Minneapolis, with bike love

  4. #4
    Tr00 GrimKvlt!!! Hathegkla's Avatar
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    excelent, thanx for the info. I think what I'll do to avoid rim confusion is just buy my 130, 32 hole hub and bring it into the shop and have them pick out a nice rim for me. I know a guy that works at the shop so I'm sure he can come up with somthing nice. I just got a brand new tire (right before I broke my spokes) so I'll bring that one in for em to check out.

  5. #5
    Tr00 GrimKvlt!!! Hathegkla's Avatar
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    ok I have another question. I measured my crank and it looks like its 170 (sorta looks like 172) the bike is a 52cm (does that sound big). anyway I ordered my hub and this: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1467 crank set in 170mm. I think I still might have a chance to switch to the 165mm. would I want to do that? I was just thinking it might be a good idea to have slightly shorter cranks if I'm using a the fixed side of the hub because I"m not going to be able to coast around corners.

    opinions? btw I'm 5'9 and a half and 185lbs (with any luck that'll be down to 175 in a few months)

  6. #6
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    A lot (I mean a lot) of folks ride 165's. Tall folks, short folks, medium folks. A lot of folks run 170's. Going smaller probably won't hurt you, and might give you a little more lean room. I say go for it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
    Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It is
    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  7. #7
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    Yeah, go for the 165s.

  8. #8
    aspiring dirtbag commuter max-a-mill's Avatar
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    make sure you get the eno eccentric hub as they make a nonadjustable version as well.

    other than that i second getting a new rim.
    - the revolution will not be motorized -

  9. #9
    Tr00 GrimKvlt!!! Hathegkla's Avatar
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    yeah I got the eccentric hub, I made sure of that after a little ebay confusion. I even got the right size for my bike. so now that I have just about everything figured out (and ordered at this point) I have to figure out what sort of gear ratio I want to go with. my crank has a 48 tooth chainring. I think I want an eno freewheel for the free side and I'm not so sure about what to get for the fixed side. but how many teeth is the real question. I'll be riding on a lot of flat ground with some hilly areas but I don’t plan on riding up anything too severe. I'm thinking of taking White Industries advice and getting a fixed gear 2 teeth smaller than my free side so I can go fast on flat ground fixed and take it easy with the free side. can anyone recommend a good match for me?

  10. #10
    Tr00 GrimKvlt!!! Hathegkla's Avatar
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    sorry for the double post but I just found out a 16 tooth freewheel isnt an option for the model I want, would a 17 be the way to go for a 48 tooth chainring, again this is mostly flat ground with some hills\slopes. I plan on having a slightly smaller one on my fixed side.

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