Quick release rear wheel?
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Quick release rear wheel?
I'd like to try converting my commuter road bike into a fixed/free flip-flop setup. I understand that a solid axle usually holds the rear wheel since it's what drives the bike, but is it possible to just use a quick release skewer instead? I figure it'd be easier to flip the wheel without having a wrench all the time.
Anyone do this?
Anyone do this?
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It's possible to do.
I've never had any success with it.
I've never had any success with it.
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I'm pretty sure we just had this thread yesterday.
I do it on my MTB with a chain tensioner. You could easily get away without one especially since you have two brakes.
I do it on my MTB with a chain tensioner. You could easily get away without one especially since you have two brakes.
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wow, that was amazingly quick replies.... :-D
I show a brief mention of it on sheldon brown's site, but I just wanted to see if anyone tried it or have any advice.
I show a brief mention of it on sheldon brown's site, but I just wanted to see if anyone tried it or have any advice.
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ss/freewheel would probably work. i rode ss with a qr for quite a while, but i could see how a fixed gear could move.
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If your QR is long enough, buy two serrated wheel washers, place them under the ends of the QR and CLAMP.
Works like a champ.
Works like a champ.
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I run a qr on my fixed gear bike. It slips a little. I run brakes and i don't see a huge performance difference.
#8
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QR axles work best in short vertical dropouts where the weight of the bike and rider holds the axle snugly in the dropout and there is no forward space in the dropout for the chain tension to slide the axle into. Putting a QR axle in a horizontal dropout can be done. but you need to get them pretty dang tight and still will probably experience some slippage when pedaling hard (or more likely from skipping hard).
My suggestion is to just carry a peanut butter wrench and deal with it. It is a ton easier to adjust chain tension exactly with a nutted axle because you can lock one side of the axle down snug and use the rim as a lever up near the bottom bracket to move the other side of the axle back and forth in the dropout in a very controlled manner. I think setting chain tension is annoying enough with a nutted axle and this technique, so I would hate to have to do it with a QR axle where the whole wheel is flopping all over the place while you're trying to get the chain tension down dead nuts. Just my opinion...
My suggestion is to just carry a peanut butter wrench and deal with it. It is a ton easier to adjust chain tension exactly with a nutted axle because you can lock one side of the axle down snug and use the rim as a lever up near the bottom bracket to move the other side of the axle back and forth in the dropout in a very controlled manner. I think setting chain tension is annoying enough with a nutted axle and this technique, so I would hate to have to do it with a QR axle where the whole wheel is flopping all over the place while you're trying to get the chain tension down dead nuts. Just my opinion...
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I did it for a while. The trick is to get the good (read: steel) enclosed cam QRs, not the cheap exposed cam ones.
Crank 'em down to where they don't slip when let go then push it closed. Mine snapped a lot due to over-tightening, though.
Crank 'em down to where they don't slip when let go then push it closed. Mine snapped a lot due to over-tightening, though.
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Originally Posted by MacG
QR axles work best in short vertical dropouts where the weight of the bike and rider holds the axle snugly in the dropout and there is no forward space in the dropout for the chain tension to slide the axle into. Putting a QR axle in a horizontal dropout can be done. but you need to get them pretty dang tight and still will probably experience some slippage when pedaling hard (or more likely from skipping hard).
My suggestion is to just carry a peanut butter wrench and deal with it. It is a ton easier to adjust chain tension exactly with a nutted axle because you can lock one side of the axle down snug and use the rim as a lever up near the bottom bracket to move the other side of the axle back and forth in the dropout in a very controlled manner. I think setting chain tension is annoying enough with a nutted axle and this technique, so I would hate to have to do it with a QR axle where the whole wheel is flopping all over the place while you're trying to get the chain tension down dead nuts. Just my opinion...
My suggestion is to just carry a peanut butter wrench and deal with it. It is a ton easier to adjust chain tension exactly with a nutted axle because you can lock one side of the axle down snug and use the rim as a lever up near the bottom bracket to move the other side of the axle back and forth in the dropout in a very controlled manner. I think setting chain tension is annoying enough with a nutted axle and this technique, so I would hate to have to do it with a QR axle where the whole wheel is flopping all over the place while you're trying to get the chain tension down dead nuts. Just my opinion...
QR's where used for years in horizontal dropouts becasue they worked well enough under normal riding conditions. It may slide forward a bit under skidding pressure but if you use the right qr or ust toothed washers it should be fine especially since the OP has two brakes.
You shouldn't need that much accuracy in adjusting wheel tension. Holding it back and clamping down when its centered should be enough. If thats too hard you can hold in the front beteen the chainstays so as to center it easier. Since this is about a conversion the screws in the dropout(if they exist) can be set to the right position to make it even easier.
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Originally Posted by MacG
QR axles work best in short vertical dropouts where the weight of the bike and rider holds the axle snugly in the dropout and there is no forward space in the dropout for the chain tension to slide the axle into. Putting a QR axle in a horizontal dropout can be done. but you need to get them pretty dang tight and still will probably experience some slippage when pedaling hard (or more likely from skipping hard).
My suggestion is to just carry a peanut butter wrench and deal with it. It is a ton easier to adjust chain tension exactly with a nutted axle because you can lock one side of the axle down snug and use the rim as a lever up near the bottom bracket to move the other side of the axle back and forth in the dropout in a very controlled manner. I think setting chain tension is annoying enough with a nutted axle and this technique, so I would hate to have to do it with a QR axle where the whole wheel is flopping all over the place while you're trying to get the chain tension down dead nuts. Just my opinion...
My suggestion is to just carry a peanut butter wrench and deal with it. It is a ton easier to adjust chain tension exactly with a nutted axle because you can lock one side of the axle down snug and use the rim as a lever up near the bottom bracket to move the other side of the axle back and forth in the dropout in a very controlled manner. I think setting chain tension is annoying enough with a nutted axle and this technique, so I would hate to have to do it with a QR axle where the whole wheel is flopping all over the place while you're trying to get the chain tension down dead nuts. Just my opinion...
From the replies, it doesn't sound like QR is a good solution. I like the suggestion with the washers though.
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Heres the other recent thread on this:
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/206674-anyone-here-actually-run-quick-release-axles-track-ends.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/206674-anyone-here-actually-run-quick-release-axles-track-ends.html
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what duret said. No matter how much of a thrasher you think you are, youre not applying as much force to that axle as (say) a 70's tour 'd climber in the alps.
Ive been running fixed with QRs for 18 years and have never had a single slip.
Ive been running fixed with QRs for 18 years and have never had a single slip.
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My GF runs a QR, no problem. Try it if that's what you've got. If it doesn't work, I think you can get allen skewers.
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i run one ss with a QR and one without. so far so good, no problems with the QR.
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running QR's overtensioned mangles the axle threads, which makes the whole rig less secure. Axles are cheap, and most track hubs come with solids anyway.
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i'm sure there is a reason QR are not track legal...
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Originally Posted by spud
i'm sure there is a reason QR are not track legal...
Also QRs should be keep tighter then most people do.
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Sure.. you can use QR.
I rode QR on a singlespeed, it did shift once in a while.
If this is your intermediate solution then just hammer the QR down REALLY tight.
I rode QR on a singlespeed, it did shift once in a while.
If this is your intermediate solution then just hammer the QR down REALLY tight.
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Originally Posted by spud
i'm sure there is a reason QR are not track legal...
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Bullhorns are also not track legal, and neither are forward-facing horizontal dropouts, but both make more sense for a lot of people.
don't forget not having bar end plugs, different sized wheels, bendy seattubes...etc. And those are actually dangerous even when your not riding in a tight pack.