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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 08-08-06, 09:49 AM   #1
BJ Hunnycutt
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Hammered aluminum fenders?

Can any one tell me whear I can find aluminium fenders for 700c X 32 tires.
I would like the hammered finnish ones similar to what A.N.T bicycles stocks on most of thear light roadsters. This is for a city-utilitarian fixed gear.
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Old 08-08-06, 10:31 AM   #2
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harriscyclery.com
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Old 08-08-06, 10:42 AM   #3
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How about this link...some nice looking stuff:

http://www.seattlerandonneur.org/info/fenders.html
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Old 08-08-06, 11:18 AM   #4
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http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html

http://www.jitensha.com/eng/saleitems.html
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Old 08-08-06, 12:07 PM   #5
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The honjos are perfect thanks!!
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Old 08-08-06, 12:10 PM   #6
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They are pretty but pricey. I've been told they are a ***** to install.
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Old 08-08-06, 01:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marqueemoon
They are pretty but pricey. I've been told they are a ***** to install.
Once more for effect...Honjos are a B$^$% to install.

Drill...measure...drill...sh%$....line up....drill....unbolt...rebolt....unbolt....straighten...align. Then you get to start all over for the other fender. They look awesome once you get they on, and seem to be really stout. I would do it all over again if I had another bike to put them on-
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Old 08-08-06, 09:28 PM   #8
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Honjo's, SKS's or Berthoud's are the best fenders out there. Honjo's are aluminum, require that you do all the hardware installation itself, but if you go to Jitensha they have a ton of little alternative mounting parts so you can get exactly what you need. If you get the fenders with a mounting kit, you don't use half of what's there. Big warning about Honjo's: The aluminum will work harden and break if you don't treat it with respect. That means that at each point you bolt to the fender itself, you should drill an oversize hole, insert a small neoprene grommet, and then run the bolt through the grommet hole. This makes sure that vibration from the road doesn't go straight through to the aluminum. Without this, your fenders may break within a couple hundred miles. Otherwise, do plan on spending a lot of time on the first installation. Once you've done it once, repeat efforts go much faster. Oh, and throw out the bolts and nuts it comes with and get stainless metric nylok nuts and stainless metric button-head allen bolts.

The Berthoud are heavy, bulletproof, and don't have the work hardening problem as much. For serious randonneurs and tourists they may be appealing, but I don't think anyone else cares that much. They're just too heavy.

The SKS are a great price and amazingly durable. I don't recommend the front strut mounting system with the black plastic breakaway fitting. It's typically German civil regulation -- it prevents a broken fender from getting caught in the front wheel, but in so doing it pulls the whole strut loose, which then sticks in the spokes instead. Nuts.

With any of these fenders, realize that to do them right you have to re-engineer whatever you started with. That means drilling new holes, getting some hardware (nyloks, grommets, button head allen bolts, fender washers, etc.) that they didn't come with, and being prepared to cut and file them to suit. Once prepared, however, they make all the difference in the world in giving you a tolerable ride in the rain. Those seat post clip-on fenders are a joke and even the SKS Raceblades don't hold a candle to a pair of decently mounted fenders. Go to River City Bicycles' (Portland, OR) site and look at their photos of custom fender setups -- they show how to get around tight brake bridge clearance, no chainstay bridge, etc.
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