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How many gear inches do you use?

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

How many gear inches do you use?

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Old 11-29-06, 08:25 PM
  #101  
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Old 11-29-06, 09:10 PM
  #102  
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I love the 46x17 (73") cause of the skid patches and I enjoy spinning. Gives me a 2.7 gain ratio.
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Old 11-30-06, 07:44 AM
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Low 60s. I like to spin.

Interesting that nobody is mentioning crank arm length. I ride 165s.
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Old 11-30-06, 04:30 PM
  #104  
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42x16 on 27" wheels for New York. (70.9 inches)

I find that on flats, I wish I had a taller gear, and on the bridges...I can't imagine a taller gear.

One question about chainrings: If you had a 52x20, or a 58x22 (!), those would also be about 70 inches. But wouldn't those be harder to get started from a stop? On the other hand, would they then be easier to pedal once you were up to speed?
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Old 12-01-06, 05:37 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by dwainedibbly
Low 60s. I like to spin.

Interesting that nobody is mentioning crank arm length. I ride 165s.
Nobody? I did.
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Old 12-01-06, 06:38 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Bklyn
One question about chainrings: If you had a 52x20, or a 58x22 (!), those would also be about 70 inches. But wouldn't those be harder to get started from a stop? On the other hand, would they then be easier to pedal once you were up to speed?
If it has the same ratio everything should be the same. You may beable to argue that because the chain is in contact with more teeth there whould be more frinction (from the side of the teeth), but the force is spread over more teeth and the chain is in a bigger arc so more efficent maybe? Should wear slower as there is less force on each tooth but every thing else should be the same.
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Old 12-01-06, 06:44 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by Bklyn
One question about chainrings: If you had a 52x20, or a 58x22 (!), those would also be about 70 inches. But wouldn't those be harder to get started from a stop? On the other hand, would they then be easier to pedal once you were up to speed?
The rotational inertia of the chainring affects acceleration only minimally when the inertia of the wheel is taken into account. And, I would argue, the decrease in chain stresses from reduced bending at the links probably counteracts the increased inertia anyways.
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Old 12-01-06, 09:55 AM
  #108  
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Why do I get a different answer on the Sheldon Calculator? I run (now) a 48/18 with 700(27) wheels. The calc gives me 72 inches, but other posts with the same ratio say they are riding 70ish.. why the discrepency?
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Old 12-01-06, 10:27 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by gfrance
Why do I get a different answer on the Sheldon Calculator? I run (now) a 48/18 with 700(27) wheels. The calc gives me 72 inches, but other posts with the same ratio say they are riding 70ish.. why the discrepency?
They're probably running smaller wheels. 72 inches is correct for a 27 inch diameter wheel.

If you select: 700 X 23 / 23-622 as the wheel size, it comes out to 70.1 inches. Lots of folks ride that size.

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Old 12-01-06, 11:26 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by dwainedibbly
Low 60s. I like to spin.

Interesting that nobody is mentioning crank arm length. I ride 165s.
I didn't mention it because, as I understand it, crank arm length isn't a factor in gear inch calculations. But it is for gain ratio. Is that correct?

In any event, I ride 172.5 because that's the same as my geared road bikes. I get a little toe overlap at the stoplights, but nothing to fret over.
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Old 12-01-06, 01:31 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops
Nobody? I did.
Oops! Sorry.


I just changed from the 172.5s on my current bike to 165s (have always ridden 170s before this) and can really tell the difference. It's not a factor in gear-inch calcs, but it does affect how the gear ratio "feels" to the rider, so it seems applicable. I had considered going to a higher gear, but that plan is on the back burner now until I adjust.
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Old 12-01-06, 02:53 PM
  #112  
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just up'd to 88.7
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Old 12-02-06, 05:23 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by uidzer0
just up'd to 88.7
Do you need someone to push you from behind, or can you start up by yourself?
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Old 12-02-06, 05:37 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by TheBrick
If it has the same ratio everything should be the same. You may beable to argue that because the chain is in contact with more teeth there whould be more frinction (from the side of the teeth), but the force is spread over more teeth and the chain is in a bigger arc so more efficent maybe? Should wear slower as there is less force on each tooth but every thing else should be the same.
He's right. One way to think about it is to look at how many times the rear wheel will turn for each time your foot turns. Since that is equal to the gear ratio, if your foot is going the same distance, and the bike is moving the same distance, the effort will be the same.
There have been studies that show that efficiency starts to drop and drivetrain wear is worse if either the cog or chainring is under 21 teeth.
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Old 12-02-06, 11:40 PM
  #115  
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Almost all hills around me, and long ones at that. 68.2 is good for me now. I could even go lower. Hopefully I'll build some strength and be able to go a little higher. If I was where it was flat, I'd be a little higher than 68.2. (48 x 19).
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