absntr

A lot of excellent bag makers are on here. I've long wanted to make my own stuff -- not just bags, but hats, shants and alterations and so on.

Tell me what you use -- industrial grade sewing machine types, names, costs.

What has worked out for you? Is eBay worth scouring? Or is new the way to go?

Any advice, pointers, suggestions and tips are most appreciated.

Thanks.

FlippingHades

I use a Sailrite LS-1 - it's reasonably priced, and has handled everything so far. Getting a proper table to mount it in is well worth it, and their support is excellent. The "Base" model (better than the cheaper classic) plus the table will run around $1K.





I've posted this link before - I keep a list of resources online: https://bike.zugster.net/compendium/bag-making-resources

One thing that you really, really, REALLY want for making bags is a sewing machine with a walking foot - it's really necessary for feeding many layers of Cordura and VCP evenly.

food

a lot of this depends on how much capital you have available and what your intended outcome is. i have friends on both ends of the spectrum, and i'd say that quality-wise, the small home-run operations are just the same as the full-blown shops. where it makes a difference is volume; moving many units a week means you need equipment that's fast and sturdy enough to handle the workload.

perhaps you can let us know more about what you're planning and i can give more specific feedback.

travsi

i know a few people here in europe that have pfaff machines.
they're made in germany and you can find them for a reasonable
price on ebay. and as noted by flippinghades, a walking foot is
very important.

Old Breadbutt

Old Limber Legs, we're walking down old Miller Creek. And when he saw that big old cow, he jumped back in the sink, Old Limber Leeeggs, we're walking...

absntr

Adam, Breadbutt, I knew you folks would chime in. I was looking at the Sailrite today after having seen it when you bought it a while ago.

Food - I'm not looking to go into business per se, though I might like to make small run items such as holsters or coin pouches -- but those would be for arts sake (meaning they'd be used for casual purposes rather than for heavy duty messenger use) and might be along the lines of Freitag.

I'd basically want a basic machine that would be fine for making small bags and pouches and the like for my own use and also be handy for doing clothes as well or alterations. At this point, I just want to explore and get into something I've never properly done. My mother is an excellent seamstress but she's far, far away from me at this moment otherwise I'd ask her to teach me some skills.

However, as far as heavy duty stuff goes, you folks are the people to ask.

Thanks for the responses thus far. Adam, I keep forgetting you have that list! I'll be looking at it.

Old Breadbutt

my machine doesn't have a walking foot... and the motor is one of the lighter ones that's connected directly to the machine, I can't wait to have money again. I'm gonna save up for a used industrial machine.

Adam, how many needles do you break going through that stuff? or do you break any at all?

chuck_norris

I have a machine for you absntr. If you can wait, I'll put it in WithNail's moving truck (provided there's some room).

The story on the machine:
MikeArena got his sailrite and had this extra one and I wanted to start making hats and minor alterations to clothes. He gave it to me on one condition-- I pass it on when I'm done. And I'm done.

It'll get you started and like me, you'll move on to a little (or lot) better machine once you have some experience under your belt(npi).

SamHouston

We've got a few industrial machines, Pfaff & Juki, for the construction. Also 3 home machines for embroidery/applique & clothing. The old Pfaff is an industrial zig-zag/straight stitch and is used for clothing too, only use it for small piecework like pockets & such w/bags because the Juki is so much better suited to the heavy stuff & is a dedicated straight stich/walking foot. Kick press for snaps, rivets & grommeting, a selection of hand tools & hot cutters. Lots of stuff really but still a workshop, not production. A new addition soon will be our binding machine, waiting on that..patiently sort of.

If you're planning to do clothes you'll definately want a machine with zig-zag capability. All those fancy stitches that come on home machines are nifty & all, but an industrial zig-zag can adjust to 0 for a straight stich and between them it's everything you'd need for clothing/light accesories. Unless you get heavy in the clothes then you'll also want a serger/lockstich etc. There are a few home machines that have "walking foot" attachments, holds stuff down a lil better, but still let you use different stiches wihtout the attachment. They often break though.

Thing is, all the sweet machines that do many things are either expensive from hell or cheap and don't actually work. Adam's Sailrite is a nice rig (btw sweet new table Adam), but is best suited to what he uses it for, wouldn't do so well with lighter fabrics/clothing.

If you were going to invest in a machine that could do a lot, not break, & not break too much of your bank, I'd recommend a used Bernina like this one Older Bernina if you could find one in solid condition. That'd last you pretty much forever, and not at new Bernina prices. It's strong enough to do leather, denim, heavy bag materials etc and delicate enough for clothing. I'm not saying buy that one, be careful with used & refurbished, lotsa a-holes sell them.

A tough machine is important for us & these other guys here, but there is such a thing as overkill. I need my Juki, but then again, it will pick up a stitch though 45 layers of Cordura, or 35+ layers of 18oz vinyl, I make sample books with it occasionally. You might have trouble finding a practical application for that kind of power.

SamHouston

Take it! I've got teh next model up of that, not bad for a name that doesn't mean squat anymore!

edit- also you can purchase a quilting table for it, provides a large surface flush to the freearm, almost like having a sewing table at a fraction the cost.

food

exactly what SamHouston said. Juki and Consew are great places to start, but may be overkill. the only other thing i might be able to add is if you live in a city with an aging textile industry, it may be worth it to prowl around the old factories for closeouts on machines. that's the best place to get them here in montreal. some of them are indeed broken, but some are just leftover capital thanks for chinese outsourcing and have thousands of hours of life left in them. hooray for globalization!

absntr

Chuck Norris -- you are the man. I'll do the same once I'm done, I promise! If Henry can get it down here, that is. Much appreciated. Paying it forward indeed.

Sam -- always good to hear your thoughts. It's nice to hear them especially since I have one of your bags.

food -- Chicago has a pretty vibrant textile scene for crafters it would seem. My good friend Cinnamon Cooper makes purses and would be someone I'd be talking to about sewing and such. She has quite a few sources for materials.

I'm definitely more in the lightweaught category in terms of goods I'd like to make. I'm not sure I'd need to get super heavy with fabrics but the option is nice. I'm thinking I'd be halfway inbetween full out messenger style cordura+vinyll vs. cloth and cordura.

Thanks again for the info and advice everyone.

mikearena

I can't really say anything that hasn't already been said in here. A nice, quality machine will make a world of difference. Not necessarily in quality, but definitely in ease of use. When I picked up a Sailrite, the amount of swearing that came from my work room dropped severly.

And as a sidenote, there's a reason the machine chuck_norris is offering you is free. If you're looking to do actual work, dont' take it.

I've love my Sairite to death, so I definitley recommend that. I've also heard that Thompsons are pretty much the same machines. A sewing machine sales person told me I couldn't go wrong with Juki, but I've never seen one.

For home machines for lighter work, I've used the free one above, with many problems, and both a higher end (sort of) Kenmore and a cheaper Brother with no problems. Most new home machines are generally plastic, and seem sort of fragile. If you can get your hands on an old singer or other older home machine that's got a metal body, those things usually have a decent amount of sewing power in them.

chuck_norris

Whatever dude. That machine isn't that bad. You're just spoiled with your fancypants sailrite. Go play with your fish or something.

absntr

Hmm. Not that I'm turning down the free machine but I also would prefer to do it once and do it right. Adam recommends the Sailrite and so do you Mike so I'm guessing that it's quite the machine. I would like the items to last so that's a consideration as well.

I've been meaning to pick up a machine for ages and the price on the Sailrite LS-1 isn't too bad. There's a store here that sells old metal machines like Singers and whatnot that I may drop by and check out too. I'll consult with some local seamstress friends as well as far as sources locally.

Ah, researching and decisions.

Thanks again.

~stella

generally, what weight cordura is good to use?

mikearena

Nothing less than 1000d

I got some 500d once by mistake, and it just felt and looked so much cheaper.

FlippingHades

Oh man, is it unseemly to drool over sewing machines? I've gotten so much better at applying binding than I used to be, but it's still my least favorite task.


I will definitely agree with this -- Sailrite says that it's fine for light fabrics, but it's not really. It can leave an imprint from the feed dogs unless you really back off the presser foot pressure, and I occasionally have trouble with it puckering lighter weight packcloth.


!!!

Holy crap.

Old Breadbutt

how often do you guys break needles going through heavyweight **** like that?

FlippingHades

I've only broken a very few needles, but I did manage to smash the needle-plate one time. Still not quite sure how I did that, but I keep a spare on hand now.

FlippingHades

Dang - if you were in SF, there's a Singer zig-zag industrial in what looks to be great shape going for a song in Santa Rosa: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/clo/196628155.html (although, no walking foot)

Fugazi Dave

***** * ** ******* **** *** ****** ** * ******

Excellent thread (pun?). I also just want to say that I love that there's this great DIY spirit common to a lot of people in the SSFIX crowd.

prufrock

i'm looking for a the cheapest, most reliable sewing machine i can find for making bags. mother's plastic sewing machine is not the greatest. i have an old japanese knock-off singer (metal body), you guys think this will be able to handle the stress of making a bag?

Retem

I use an old singer / juki 5500ddl and am looking to get a walking foot machine but I need a bigger apartment first my machine was 75 bucks used and it needed a new table after falling out of my brothers pick up truck


before I put the new bobbin winder on


what happened to the juki**********?

FlippingHades

Look at the dates on the post, man

The Sailrite was pre-Juki. Now I've got a Singer 20U33 for embroidery too, and of course the Juki is still totally awesome.