deanodizing the anodized
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deanodizing the anodized
so, i was looking at some odd anodized aluminum components that i have laying around, and i got to thinking that it might be cool to try and deanodize them. as far as i know, all that needs to be done is to soak the parts in a sodium hydroxide solution - i.e. ajax powder(sodium hydroxide carbonate) and warm water.
before i drop the $3 and go at it - does anyone know if this compromises the structural integrity of the aluminum in any way? i mean i wouldn't want some blingity blang parts if they're going to explode.
if it doesnt, then i wonder if deanodizing a mavic reflex would act to prevent it's tendency to crack at the eyelets.
before i drop the $3 and go at it - does anyone know if this compromises the structural integrity of the aluminum in any way? i mean i wouldn't want some blingity blang parts if they're going to explode.
if it doesnt, then i wonder if deanodizing a mavic reflex would act to prevent it's tendency to crack at the eyelets.
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All anodizing is, is a layer of aluminum oxide on the outside of the parts (sometimes with dye embedded in it). It's harder than plain aluminum and makes the surface more scratch resistant, but if you dissolve that off of there, the plain aluminum that's left underneath will be fine.
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I hear oven cleaner will remove anodizing. Something about the lye?
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Yeah you can use oven cleaner but itll still need polishing or something after or itll look like ass. Im telling you, sand it or have it polished. Anodizing is very easy to remove.
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easyoff oven cleaner takes off anodizing. sprey on, wipe off ten minutes later. later
Originally Posted by sers
so, i was looking at some odd anodized aluminum components that i have laying around, and i got to thinking that it might be cool to try and deanodize them. as far as i know, all that needs to be done is to soak the parts in a sodium hydroxide solution - i.e. ajax powder(sodium hydroxide carbonate) and warm water.
before i drop the $3 and go at it - does anyone know if this compromises the structural integrity of the aluminum in any way? i mean i wouldn't want some blingity blang parts if they're going to explode.
if it doesnt, then i wonder if deanodizing a mavic reflex would act to prevent it's tendency to crack at the eyelets.
before i drop the $3 and go at it - does anyone know if this compromises the structural integrity of the aluminum in any way? i mean i wouldn't want some blingity blang parts if they're going to explode.
if it doesnt, then i wonder if deanodizing a mavic reflex would act to prevent it's tendency to crack at the eyelets.
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#9
hello
I've de-anodized headsets and stems using Easy-Off oven cleaner. It still requires a bit of sanding. Then polish with a polishing wheel.
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im doing this soon (actually made a post about it yesterday) and i'm planning on buying the stuff dennis used. not that expensive, and i figure something designed to deanodize is gonna be at least a little bit better than something designed to clean ovens.
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stripped the threads on a threadless aluminum stem a few months after using easy off to remove the ano. may be unrelated though, apparently i tend to overtighten stuff
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Originally Posted by Sin-A-Matic
sodium hydroxide has a pH of 14 (lye has a pH of 13), so if you injest it, you'd better hope that they can restore your blood's pH (7.4) before your organs are slush. it's extremely caustic, the base equivalent of hydrochloric acid (pH 0).
i sort of wonder if he could have spared himself the new wheelset, if he was able to submerge the wheel to right below the hub flange on top and then on bottom, and then submerged the small "left" and "right" portions of each wheel at the same time.
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Originally Posted by The Fixer
I've de-anodized headsets and stems using Easy-Off oven cleaner. It still requires a bit of sanding. Then polish with a polishing wheel.
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Originally Posted by tylergarrison
for the record, i just removed the anodized walls of my rims using the cheapest oven cleaner (lemon fresh scent!) i could find at Kroger's. Applied with a tootbrush, let sit for 10-15 minutes, scrubbed off with some steel wool. took a few reapplications and a bit of time/work, but it looks damn good and was very cheap. yeah, de-anodizer would be lovely but i'd rather hit up the grocery store and grab a 6 of widmer with my can of oven cleaner. you can't get that sorta deal through mail order.
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Originally Posted by sers
did you do it when the wheel was built up?
i only wanted to remove the anodized brake surface, not strip the entire rim, so i had to use a toothbrush and be sorta carfeul with the whole process. but all in all it came out better than i expected. sure beats that ****ty "oops, i used brakes on anodized rims" look.
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Originally Posted by tylergarrison
built up as in spokes and hubs? yes. built up as in tubes and tires? no.
i only wanted to remove the anodized brake surface, not strip the entire rim, so i had to use a toothbrush and be sorta carfeul with the whole process. but all in all it came out better than i expected. sure beats that ****ty "oops, i used brakes on anodized rims" look.
i only wanted to remove the anodized brake surface, not strip the entire rim, so i had to use a toothbrush and be sorta carfeul with the whole process. but all in all it came out better than i expected. sure beats that ****ty "oops, i used brakes on anodized rims" look.
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here's a good introduction to what exactly anodizing is/does
https://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
https://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
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Originally Posted by sers
i meant as in spokes and hubs. would it have been more or less difficult to strip the whole rim?
i didn't have to worry about scrubbing around each and every nipple (which would suck) because i just did the walls. otherwise i would have torn that **** apart, gone to town with the oven cleaner and steel wool, and tried my hand at wheel building after i was done stripping, hehe.