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Thread: Phil Wood Hubs

  1. #1
    tried to coast once chinnt's Avatar
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    Phil Wood Hubs

    can anyone give me their opinion about whether it's tough to torque down Phil Wood hubs on the frame tight enough?...I know they're good hubs, but seems I can torque a nut on an axle tighter than an allen wrench on the interior part of the axle. I'm having some wheels built with Phil hubs as we speak, and didn't know if I'd have to be extra careful over time not to strip the hex nut.

    probably worrying over nothing, but each ride requires me to take the front wheel off/on since I drive to my starting point.

    thanks
    Last edited by chinnt; 08-31-06 at 03:10 PM.

  2. #2
    poser/hipster/whatever xthugmurderx's Avatar
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    i've yet to have a problem, and i started with the same worry. just get a good allen key so you don't round out the whole. i just the park allen tool (the one with 11 different sizes) and it's no problem getting it on there tight as hell.

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    like he said, get a good fit allen socket.
    And when your torquing down, dont jump the wrench, just tighten slowly without bouncing and you should have no problems with stripping.

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    park ranger
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    a good fitting and high quality allen tool (you can get allen sockets that fit on a ratchet) should be on the top of your list.
    also the front wheel doesn't really need to be super tight does it?
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    J.A.M Jamtastic's Avatar
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    well if you do round it out its not the end of the world. New axles/ allen screws are like 60 bucks from Phil. So its expensive but not perm. Neato

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    keep it pretend visitordesign's Avatar
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    i got replacement bolts from marcus after my rears rounded out. as long as you order JUST the bolts, it's a cheap replacement to make.

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    It helps to lubricate the threads of the bolts. I use antiseize compound.

    And you need to get them tight, but not like you're standing on the wrench. On the rear, people have more trouble getting Phil hubs tight enough so they won't slip, but that's what the Phil BMX cones are great for -- they replace the small formed washer under the allen bolt with a large stainless conical one that grips much more securely. Plus, they help prevent (or reduce the effects of) galling of softer metal stay-ends.

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    OR you can pay like 2 dollars and get new bolts from a metric shop. You can even get a metric hex bolt, jet bolt, torx, whatever you want in the same diameter and pitch as the phil axle and save yourself 55 bucks.

  9. #9
    tried to coast once chinnt's Avatar
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    thanks all...
    Last edited by chinnt; 08-31-06 at 09:21 PM.

  10. #10
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinnt
    can anyone give me their opinion about whether it's tough to torque down Phil Wood hubs on the frame tight enough?...I know they're good hubs, but seems I can torque a nut on an axle tighter than an allen wrench on the interior part of the axle. I'm having some wheels built with Phil hubs as we speak, and didn't know if I'd have to be extra careful over time not to strip the hex nut.

    probably worrying over nothing, but each ride requires me to take the front wheel off/on since I drive to my starting point.

    thanks
    I had a set of American Classic hubs with allen bolts years ago. I worked at a bike shop and used proper toos but they always slipped (I'm a big guy and put lots of force on the pedals/chain/wheel).

    I ride phil wood now and use tensioners to avoid having to super-torque it down.

    If you have problems with it slipping, I suggest putting on at least one tensioner (on the drive side) and ride with confidence.

  11. #11
    LF for the accentdeprived
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    Quote Originally Posted by asalvador
    OR you can pay like 2 dollars and get new bolts from a metric shop. You can even get a metric hex bolt, jet bolt, torx, whatever you want in the same diameter and pitch as the phil axle and save yourself 55 bucks.
    What I wanted to say until I read this. AFAIK Phils use perfectly standard metric allen bolts. Over here, those cost 5c a piece, 10c for a very high quality one. If you start to round out your bolts, splash out 20c for a new set before you strip them and have a hub stuck in your fork.

    If you make sure you insert the wrench all the way and keep it in there and straight while you turn, then you'll never strip the bolt heads anyway.
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  12. #12
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    no problemo here I ride em hard and I sprint sooo.. put two and two togehter and if all else fails get some bmx tugs for the rear
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  13. #13
    "not enough rage" Old Breadbutt's Avatar
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    I've never had a problem with mine slipping, stripping or rounding out. and I use the hex wrench on my multitool. I can really feel when they get tight, it's not a gradual difference, it's like there's a sudden resistance that says "you don't need to tighten this **** anymore" which I never felt when I had suzue pro max hubs. Phil bolts are stainless and tough as ****.

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