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Thread: Crank Clearance

  1. #1
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    Crank Clearance

    I got a Raleigh Rush Hour about 5 or 6 months ago and love it, but have run into one small (but potentially major) problem. I'm running it on the fixed gear, and because of this I am not able to freewheel around corners. I've taken a few really sharp turns and had my pedal hit the ground at pretty high speed, making me sort of "skip." I don't need to eat **** in traffic, so what would be a good remedy for this?

    I'm not sure how many MM the current crank is on this model, but would I need to possibly buy a new one, maybe shorter? I switched out the pedals to slightly smaller ones, but it isn't quite enough.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Pfutz's Avatar
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    what size is you frame, you could easily check your crank size by going to their website.

  3. #3
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    just skid throught tight turn lock the wheel into the turn that way you don't have to worry about pedal bash or overlap


    or you could take the turn wider
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    1) It's a 59 cm frame, but the Raleigh website, for some reason, doesn't list the length of the crank.
    2) There have been a few moments when I am not able to widen my turn or skid in time and am forced to take a really sharp corner to avoid hitting something/getting hit.

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    Well, the crank does list the length of the crank, so I guess it would be logical to look there first. Inside of both crank arms will have "165", "170" etc. stamped in them. You may want to get a shorter crank. Much more advisable is a pedal with more clearance. I'm going out on a limb here: I guess you have platform pedals. Clipless would help, but shorter and lower-built platforms add a bit of clearance, too.
    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
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  6. #6
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    I havn't hit a pedal yet and I run 170s and regular road pedals with cages and straps

    from a parts aspect invest in some track pedals they generally have more clearence for tight turns
    or shorter cranks but shorter cranks might not help your fit any

    good luck
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  7. #7
    i am sure that i hate you spud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phutonrevolt
    1) It's a 59 cm frame, but the Raleigh website, for some reason, doesn't list the length of the crank.
    2) There have been a few moments when I am not able to widen my turn or skid in time and am forced to take a really sharp corner to avoid hitting something/getting hit.
    put a brake on, or use it if you have one, and look further ahead, pedal strike can be avoided, 2.5 or 5mm isnt going to give you that much; its much easier to change how you ride than to change your geometry.
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    Senior Member Pfutz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phutonrevolt
    1) It's a 59 cm frame, but the Raleigh website, for some reason, doesn't list the length of the crank.
    2) There have been a few moments when I am not able to widen my turn or skid in time and am forced to take a really sharp corner to avoid hitting something/getting hit.

    Actually, yes they do, you just didnt look hard enough. It's under geometry, and you have 175mm cranks

  9. #9
    asleep at the wheel fixedpip's Avatar
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    What type of pedals are you using? Pedal type also effects your chances of pedal/crank strike.

    If they're wide platforms or older quill road pedals, try swapping them for something with a narrower body (MKS sylvian tracks etc) or throw on some clipless pedals.

    But if you've got anything longer than 170s, you may have to swap yer crank.

    Edit: just re-read the thread and saw that Retem beat me to it with the pedal suggestion. So just ignore this comment.
    Last edited by fixedpip; 09-04-06 at 10:57 AM.

  10. #10
    Spelling Snob Hobartlemagne's Avatar
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    Shorter cranks can help. Changing pedals can help. Also changing turning technique. Instead of leaning the whole bike while turning, try to hang your body off the turning side and keep the bike a bit more upright than you normally would on turns.

    The first rule of flats is You don't talk about flats!

  11. #11
    Senior Member sers's Avatar
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    man, i thought there were going to be cranksets at discount prices. imagine my dissapointment.

  12. #12
    Paste Taster Retem's Avatar
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    175mm jees thats a mtb/bmx crank man I might have a set of 170mm truvativ touros w - bb (both only abouth three months old) to sell otherwise check out spicer he has good prices


    pm me if your interested
    Last edited by Retem; 09-04-06 at 01:40 PM.
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    Senior Member Pfutz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retem
    175mm jees thats a mtb/bmx crank man I might have a set of 170mm truvativ touros w - bb (both only abouth three months old) to sell otherwise check out spicer he has good prices


    pm me if your interested

    His raleigh uses Truvativ Touros if its stock. (so he wouldnt need the BB)

  14. #14
    Biggity-bam
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    You must be leaning the **** over my friend. I run 175s on my 59cm Pista Concept which has an even higher bb than yours and I've only had pedal strike once, while cutting up a hill sideways. Check your pedals. Switching to pedals that are less wide will yield less pedal strike more than a measly 5 mils.

  15. #15
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    Well, that's because a high BB helps avoid pedal strike... *bangs head against keyboard*
    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    Do you deny that you are clueless or do you just think that "moron" didn't need to be tacked on there?
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  16. #16
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    Work on avoiding pedal strike by technique too. Don't take your turns so fast, and when you do turn, lean your body into it, but push the bike out. Also, if you only lean the bike in when your inside pedal is up, that will help too. Shorter cranks and lower-profile pedals are easy though.
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  17. #17
    perspective distorts killsurfcity's Avatar
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    not to sound like a dick, but it sounds like you just need to learn how to ride your bike better. some changes in equiptment may help, but ultimately, it's a matter of getting used to riding a fixed gear.
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  18. #18
    girl anachronism Red Riding Hood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by killsurfcity
    not to sound like a dick, but it sounds like you just need to learn how to ride your bike better. some changes in equiptment may help, but ultimately, it's a matter of getting used to riding a fixed gear.
    +1

    I get by great on my bike, and I have the same setup. You just have to be more aware of your speed, go slower around turns, make wider turns, etc. I rarely use my brake (except for emergencies and quick stopes), and I never skid. You can control yourself a LOT with just the pedaling, and you'll feel more one with your bike that way, too. That's the reason I love fixed gear. The control is so great (and so fun)!
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  19. #19
    Senior Member SingleSpeeDemon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Riding Hood
    +1

    I get by great on my bike, and I have the same setup. You just have to be more aware of your speed, go slower around turns, make wider turns, etc. I rarely use my brake (except for emergencies and quick stopes), and I never skid. You can control yourself a LOT with just the pedaling, and you'll feel more one with your bike that way, too. That's the reason I love fixed gear. The control is so great (and so fun)!
    Yep. The more you ride fixxed, the more it becomes second-nature. I have a brake on that I have yet to reach for. By looking ahead and using your legs to control your speed you'll find that your concerns go away.
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  20. #20
    Senior Member CoppellStereo's Avatar
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    i have the same problem, i've gone completely off the ground before from my pedal hitting the ground (magnesium platform pedals make a cool spark FYI) you have to lean over a little more around the corner, yet push the back opposite the lean
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