First fixie - advice needed!
Hi am new to the forum but have been lurking for a few months now. Can anyone advise me on my first fixed build?
Just received a set of Ambrosio wheels for a fixed build however I am having a few problems. The front hub spacing (10mm) is too big for my forks (9.5ml spacing) the wheel will fit with a bit of a struggle but I am worried I am stretching the fork a bit much. Spacing on the rear of the frame is ok however I am having problems fitting the rear axel into the rear horizontal dropouts (dropouts are 11 mm wide). Do I have a funny sized frame? It is a fillet brazed Dawes circa early 1960’s. This is my first fixed and road frame build and any solutions or advice will be appreciated. Cheers |
Originally Posted by goatboy
Hi am new to the forum but have been lurking for a few months now. Can anyone advise me on my first fixed build?
Just received a set of Ambrosio wheels for a fixed build however I am having a few problems. The front hub spacing (10mm) is too big for my forks (9.5ml spacing) the wheel will fit with a bit of a struggle but I am worried I am stretching the fork a bit much. Spacing on the rear of the frame is ok however I am having problems fitting the rear axel into the rear horizontal dropouts (dropouts are 11 mm wide). Do I have a funny sized frame? It is a fillet brazed Dawes circa early 1960’s. This is my first fixed and road frame build and any solutions or advice will be appreciated. Cheers |
those measurement must be in cm. if thats the case, your old steel frame will have no trouble at all "bending" a little to fit the wheels. slide them it, tighten the bolts down and youre good to go.
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If it is all steel you should be able so spring the for the 5 mm an dsimiarly the rear the 5 mm by hand no need to cold set or anything.
Note mm = millimeter milli means *10^(-3) so one thousandth of a meter ml = milli liter one thousandth of a liter the volume measurement 10 cm x 10 cm x 10 cm |
Opps!:o yes I mean mm not ml. Obviously my typing is not very fluid! ;)
With regards to the rear dropouts i mean that the slot where you slide the axel is 11mm not the space between the dropouts. I had the frame powdercoated and think that it has added a couple of mil to the surface of the dropout ether that of the axel is to thick. Thanks for your advice. |
if the axle is too thick, get a flat bastard file and open up the slot a little. If there is a "thicker side" (meaning top or bottom) try to remove more material from there. I think you are trying to say that the axle fit before you p-coat, and if thats the case, you will have very little work to do. 60's lugs should be plenty beefy enough to remove a little material and still be totally strong enough. I had to do this on my old Raleight and never had a problem.
use a dremel if you're feeling lazy. |
Originally Posted by CF4L
if the axle is too thick, get a flat bastard file and open up the slot a little. If there is a "thicker side" (meaning top or bottom) try to remove more material from there. I think you are trying to say that the axle fit before you p-coat, and if thats the case, you will have very little work to do. 60's lugs should be plenty beefy enough to remove a little material and still be totally strong enough. I had to do this on my old Raleight and never had a problem.
use a dremel if you're feeling lazy. Dont know if axel fited before powdercoat as didnt have the wheels then. Will take a file to the dropouts. |
Originally Posted by CF4L
your old steel frame will have no trouble at all "bending" a little to fit the wheels
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