Kilgore_Trout

after searching the forums i didn't really find much to answer these questions:

1 if i'm getting a new crankset, would it be wiser to spend more on the sugino sg75 or is the rd2 sufficient enough? in other words, is the sg75 that much better than the rd2?

2 if i'm looking to lighten up my bike here and there by swapping in carbon fiber parts, which would be best? i was thinking fork and stem, maybe seatpost as well. or is this just futile for city riding?

3a i'm also looking to build my own wheel, preferably going with medium-range hubs (the "please rate cheap track hubs" thread led me to believe that iro, harris, other re-branded formulas, surly, etc are all decent enough hubs for someone who doesn't have the money for phils) and lacing them to velocity aerohead rims. the general consensus is that your LBS doesn't like to be known as "the place with the special tools" or "the place that can fix one small thing on your bike and just get paid for the labor cost" so would it be an affront to my LBS if i went in there with a mostly finished wheel and asked them to tune it up/true it?

3b continuing with the wheel-building, is spoke count a big issue? obviously you want the hubs and rims to have the same spoke count, but is going from a 36 to a 32 really going to make the bike that much lighter or make the wheel that less strong?


thanks.

mihlbach

1. Unless you are an extremely experienced track cyclist who demands the best, you won't be able to tell the difference between the 2 cranks.

2. Carbon stuff is nice, but not really worth it for the weight savings unless you are building up an ultra high-end road bike. If your bike is not a total tanker to begin with, you are going to really have to spend a lot of money to remove a significant amount of weight from your bike, but again, if you are not a top end racer, your not going to notice the difference.

3. The LBS probably won't have a problem with it...they may lecture you about how you should let a professional build the wheel for you, but who really cares. You could just lie and tell them you bought the wheel from a friend who built it up and never rode it, play dumb and just ask them if the wheel is in good condition. If they say it needs work, then ask them to do it. How can they give you trouble for that?

4. Again, the weight difference between a 32 and 36 spoke wheel is the difference of 8 spokes (4 per wheel)...impeceptable when riding. However, if properly built, 32 or 36 spokes will both be fine for normal riding.

If you want to upgrade your bike, my advice would be to not get to worried about weight or nit picking about what part is better, stronger, lighter than another. Once you get into the realm of decent quality parts, it all really basically does a great job and is light enough for everything but pro racing. Just get the stuff that (1) looks good to you, (2) will make you enjoy your bike more, (3) and is within your budget.

sivat

1. If you are a pretty big guy, you might notice the difference in flex between the 2 cranks. Otherwise, the weight issue won't be noticeable. Keep in mind also, that chainrings will be cheaper and easier to find for the RD2 since they use a 130bcd. If you really want to build a light-weight bike though, go with the 75s.

2. The fork is the only place where you'll really notice a weight difference. Depending on what you have now, and how much you spend, you could shave off a pound with a good carbon fork. Carbon forks also ride quite nicely. For the less than the price of a carbon stem, you can get a really nice aluminum stem that will weigh about the same.

3. The LBS shouldn't have a problem with truing a wheel as long as the wheel is laced well and tensioned fairly evenly (all the nipples threaded on about the same distance). On the other hand, you will NOT save money by building your own wheel. By the time you buy rims, spokes and hubs, you will have spent at least as much as ordering a set from IRO. I'm not trying to talk you out of building your own wheels. Its a great learning experience and feeling of accomplishment, but it won't save you money. For the spoke count, i think it matters more how much you weigh. If you are under 180 or so, 32 spoke will be fine. If you are over 180 or you like jumping curbs, the 36 will be better. Like mihlbach said, the weight of 8 spokes is negligible unless you're counting every gram.

Retem

1. everyone else already covered it
2. carbon is nce for a seatpost and fork only becaude it takes some of the thud and vibe out of the ride
3. I hate velocity rims you can get open sports at nashbar for 23 bucks
I build my wheels 3 leading 3 trailing 36 hole of course adn they are sturdy
I use 14g straight spokes for my builds as well it is sturdy weight isn't going to be that much of a difference straight butted 14g 15g ya know

don't be a weight weenie if you are too light the wind will pick you up and you'll end up in munchkin land

Kilgore_Trout

alright, sweet. i'm mostly looking for new cranks and new wheel sets, and figured if im going to get new ones, i might as well get good ones (not great because i don't have a job and don't have any money).
the weight thing isn't a huge issue for me, because if it was, i'd be spending big bucks on a carbon fiber frame, but figured if i can swap out some heavier parts (ie. a fork) for a carbon one, it might be lighter and handle better.
the spoke question wasn't so much in terms of weight, because as people said a few grams isn't going to make that much of a difference, i just wanted to make sure that the amount of pressure i'm putting on the rim isn't going to break it; so the over/under 180 statement is good guidence, since i'm pretty scrwany (6'0" 125lbs)
thanks again.

na975

never ever settle for 2nd best! SUGINO...........

roadfix

Re cranks.....are you putting this on a true track frame or a road frame? Track cranks and road frames sometimes do not work well as far as clearance & chainline are concerned.

Retem

dude I am 6' 4" and weight 215# I put plenty of pressure on things above below 180 is right on and as far as clearence and chainline I haven't had a problem since but you could if you run an insane sized ring upfront

roadfix

I think some track crank arms will hit chainstays on standard road frames.

jamey

you guys are nuts. i couldn't believe the difference in stiffness when i got my sugino 75's. i think crank stiffness is totally noticeable.

mihlbach

What were you using before?

smurfy

Could crank stiffness or lack therof actually be bottom bracket flex? I was at the LBS one day to visit my bikie friends and one of the wrenches has a Fugi (I forget what model) fixie conversion w/True Temper OXIII frame tubing. He was trackstanding it and I could visibly see the bb flexing like crazy like the frame was made out of spagetti! Unbelievable.

jamey

campy

mihlbach

BB spindles can be the culprit. I bought a used Redline Monocog off someone who had installed a high end BB with a titanium spindle. I thought my cranks were flexy as hell, until the BB finally crapped out and I bought a new one with a steel spindle. It felt so much stiffer. Turns out it was the titanium BB spindle that was flexy, not the cranks.

sivat

Strength is a better reason to use butted spokes than weight. the thinner middle section of the spokes will help take stress off of the weaker parts of the spoke and will help the wheel last longer.

LóFarkas

There's a helluva weight difference.
64pcs DT 2.0 spokes: 444g
64pcs DT 2.0-1.5-2.0: 283g

160grams is a lot of rotating weight, especially without making any functional compromise at all. It actually increases durability as well. Try saving 80 grams (ok, 40 to 60) on a rim without compromising strength.

Yeah, only relevant if you're a weight weenie. But if you are, you better start with butted spokes.