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  1. #1
    Senior Member craigdurkee's Avatar
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    converting old mtb

    I need to convert an old MTB and to be honest i dont know where to start

    Some of the guides i have read (sheldon brown) etc dont mean a thing to me.

    Can someone give me a simple step by step instruction on how to achieve this

    Hope there are some takers to walk this newbie through

    i can post pics of the different components if that will help

    www.cmassworld.au.tt
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  2. #2
    LF for the accentdeprived
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    SS or fixed? Horizontal or vertical dropouts?

    No step by step is possible, too many variables.
    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    Do you deny that you are clueless or do you just think that "moron" didn't need to be tacked on there?
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  3. #3
    Run What 'Ya Brung bonechilling's Avatar
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    This is a good kit to get if you are planning on going SS.
    Out of stock now, but it looks like it'll be available again.

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...isearch=true##

  4. #4
    THIS SPACE FOR RENT
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonechilling
    This is a good kit to get if you are planning on going SS.
    Out of stock now, but it looks like it'll be available again.

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...isearch=true##
    That kit no worky if you have a freewheel and not a freehub.

    Craigdurkee, you are going to need to be more specific if you want help here. If the sheldon tutorial doesn't make sense, go to his glossary and read about the terms you don't understand. Particularly if you have a freewheel and will need to respace and redish the wheel, this is not a basic repair task. Not to say you or any other reasonably mechanically inclined person can't do it, but it's not dirt simple.
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

    -T.G.

  5. #5
    Senior Member craigdurkee's Avatar
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    pics

    <center>
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    <img src="http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k203/craigjdurkee/th_ABCD0006.jpg"></a>
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    <img src="http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k203/craigjdurkee/th_ABCD0005.jpg"></a>
    <a href="http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k203/craigjdurkee/ABCD0004.jpg" target="_blank">
    <img src="http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k203/craigjdurkee/th_ABCD0004.jpg"></a>
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    the pics
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  6. #6
    Senior Member DaSy's Avatar
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    As you have horizontal dropouts, you don't need any sort of chain tensioner, and the job should be pretty simple.

    You will need something to convert your rear wheels cassette to a single cog. You haven't shown any pictures of the rear wheel, so not sure how many gears you have, and whether it's a screw on cassette or a freehub body, this dictates what you need to convert to a single cog.

    Once you've sorted out the rear cog, you ideally would need to repace that chainset, as it appears to be one that won't allow you to remove the outer and inner chainrings (I may be wrong, but that's how it looks in the piccy). You could run it as is, and just use the middle ring (I assume this is for offroad single speeding?), but it would look a bit gash.

    Once the above are sorted out, you just need to shorten the chain to loop around the single rear cog and the middle chainring, and slide the wheel back in the drop out to give the necessary tension on the chain to stop it jumping off the cogs on a rooty downhill etc.

    We need to know if you can remove the chainrings from your chainset, and what type of rear cassette you have to give the final analysis.

    Si.

  7. #7
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    I converted my 1994 entry level GT to a singlespeed. The crankset on it had the cheap welded together chainrings, similar to what's on the OPs bike. Five minutes with a dremel tool, and the big ring was no more. At some point I may get motivated enough to do the same to the granny ring. Not the best looking solution, but it's cheaper than a new crankset, and looks better than a full triple.

  8. #8
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    Here is a photo. The bike is a wip, and will be my winter beater. In the next couple of weeks, I'll be dumping the rear cluster in favor of a proper cog and spacers. Also, I'll be slotting the (vertical) drops, and losing the cheap Acera chain tensioner.


  9. #9
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
    Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It is
    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  10. #10
    otherwiseordinary lymbzero's Avatar
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    First place to start ...

    Remove:
    shifters
    shifter cables,
    front-derailer
    rear-derailer
    chain

    From there you'll have a place to go.

    Nevermind.. you already did that.. HAHAH

  11. #11
    ride fast...take chances
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    is a suicide set up strong enough for mtn biking? i have an old beater (marin alum frame, horiz d/o's) that i wouldn't mind converting for occasional use on the trails. i am pretty sure it's a 7 speed shimano hub from 91 - 92. almost positive.

    if not what's my least expensive route?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by iridetitus
    is a suicide set up strong enough for mtn biking? i have an old beater (marin alum frame, horiz d/o's) that i wouldn't mind converting for occasional use on the trails. i am pretty sure it's a 7 speed shimano hub from 91 - 92. almost positive.

    if not what's my least expensive route?
    Yes, if you keep the brakes. Otherwise, cheapest option is a new rear wheel plus new BB to take care of chainline
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

    -T.G.

  13. #13
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    nashbar also has a cheap kit if you have vertical drops...I have these on my mt/winter ss ride and works great..usually these are 19.95 and with a % coupon off cheaper

    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...A%20Freewheels
    Bike Nashbar.com - Nashbar Single Speed Kit

  14. #14
    No cud for foil. DasProfezzional's Avatar
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    Mine is easy. And, being painted by moi, it looks unholy killer. Anyways...

    If'n you've got vertical dropouts, an easy, albeit fairly ghetto-tech solution is the Surly Singleator, or even just the setup you've got, with the chain run through the immobilized derailleur (tune the lower limit and remove the shifters.) A good investment, if this is the case, would be a cog and chainring designed for single speed use, so that you would have less risk of derailment, even if you still ran a 3/32" chain.

    If you've got horizontal dropouts, you can either build up another wheel, buy one prebuilt, or save some shrapnel and use what you've got, with the spacer trick that has undoubtedly been mentioned already.

    Really, converting to singlespeed is pretty much the easiest thing in the world.

  15. #15
    BFSSFG old timer riderx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigdurkee
    Can someone give me a simple step by step instruction on how to achieve this
    Step-by-step instructions.
    Single Speed Outlaw
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