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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Good deal for this frame??

    Take a look at this.
    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/260078282.html
    I have realized that my huffy might not be the best candidate for a fixie...I am sure you are all surprised. This looks like it has the cranks so all I would have to buy are some vuelta wheels I saw on ebay that come with a cog to get things "rolling" (wah-wah-wah).
    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TRACK-ROAD-B...QQcmdZViewItem

    I really want to get this project going and start riding...this will be a commuter bike essentially. Can you help me. Does this sound like a good idea?

  2. #2
    live free or die trying humancongereel's Avatar
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    50? neither good nor bad. 50 sounds about average for a frame for that sort of gaspipe conversion thing.
    have:ea50 flats, black, light, stiff.
    144 bcd 3/32" 49t sugino track chainring, possibly 75.

    want: risers, light, stiff, 1", black if that can be
    144 bcd 46t or 47t chainring any kind or width

  3. #3
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    gaspipe conversion thing? I have no idea what that means. I want it to work with the wheels posted, will they fit? I am pretty lost here. any advice would be helpful

  4. #4
    live free or die trying humancongereel's Avatar
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    sorry, i mean for a conversion on the cheap, a 50 dollar frame is about average. so, if you like the frame, take it. if you don't, there are lots more out there for that price. as far as wheels fitting, i'm going to guess yes. the only conversion problem i've ever come across is with some old french front fork that was spaced at 96mm instead of today's standard 100mm. but with 100mm front/120mm back, you will, i'm going to assume, be okay.

    actually, the sizes listed in that wheel ad are wack. i'd check on that, first. 143mm front? what the ****?

    also, long reach brakes may be needed since 700c wheels are slightly smaller than 27" wheels. you'll need the brakes to go down another 4mm.
    have:ea50 flats, black, light, stiff.
    144 bcd 3/32" 49t sugino track chainring, possibly 75.

    want: risers, light, stiff, 1", black if that can be
    144 bcd 46t or 47t chainring any kind or width

  5. #5
    crown heights sucka
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    don't buy wheels until you measure the rear spacing. road frames have a wider (135, I think) rear axle spacing than standard track wheels (120), and you'll want to match them so you don't have to fuss with changing axles.

    as for price, I haven't the slightest idea.

  6. #6
    Stinky McStinkface exfreewheeler's Avatar
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    Gaspipe refers to the type of tubing - it is an older bike, like my Raleigh Record. The tubing is not the thinner-walled lighter/butted tubing. It is like the gaspipes that run in old tenement buildings... straight gauge. It's probably 2030, like mine. If it's 531 tubing, it's a little better(they say) due to weighing less. Lighter weight, same strength. 631 better... etc. I'm not really too knowledgeable on the materials but from being on this forum, you come to learn these things.

    My 2030 Raleigh is great. I use it as a single speed and I love the ride.

  7. #7
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    The reason I want to buy a frame is to make things easier/cheaper than with my current huffy. what are the things I need to keep in mind when trying to make this process as simple/cheap as possible.

  8. #8
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    Gaspipe = straight gauge, hi-tensile steel. Most relatively modern/not garbage frames are made of butted cro-moly steel, which is much lighter and stronger. Whether that matters or not to you is up to you.

    Spacing: most older road bikes have 126 or 130mm rear spacing. And if it's steel, you can just squeeze them. No big deal. The only hassle I foresee is dealing with one-piece cranks (though you can replace it with some American BB BMX cranks) and the associated pedals. And finding a seatpost.

    I'd offer $20 for it, and keep looking.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
    Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It is
    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  9. #9
    antisocialite dirtyphotons's Avatar
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    yup, unless you're mechanically inclined (or the bb is in excellent condition) one piece cranks will be more trouble than they're worth.

    you've got the right idea though, if it werent for the cranks i'd say its worth it. make sure the frame fits though, it's hard to get detailed measurements from a cl seller, but at the very least i'd look for a seat tube measurement. top tube's better.

    if you don't know what size you are, go to a bike shop and test ride bikes till you figure it out.

    oh yeah, if you do decide to convert, and need some help from a mechanic, go to a different shop than the one where you test rode all those bikes but didn't buy anything

    edit: ignore everything i said and go here
    Last edited by dirtyphotons; 01-16-07 at 07:47 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    Because when fashion conflicts with function, I vote for function.

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