Pedal thread question.
#1
efficienter
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Pedal thread question.
I have posted a little here and there over the last few months and read as much as I can while putting together my first conversion. (Pics to come when done.) Thanks for all the information so far.
I am just at the stage of putting pedal to crank and am a little stumped by the tightness/resistance of the thread.
I have searched here and read sheldons section on pedals and it sees this should work okay.
I have old (80's) campy strada cranks with 9/16 x 20F on the thread, and Kyokuto Top-Run pedals which read 7x7 or 7xZ which doesn't seem to relate to anything I can find.
My question is that the greased pedal screws in a few turns and then becomes fairly tight but still has a fair way to go. Should I keep with the pressure and force or will this stuff up the threads?
Any information would be great.
Thanks.
Joel.
I am just at the stage of putting pedal to crank and am a little stumped by the tightness/resistance of the thread.
I have searched here and read sheldons section on pedals and it sees this should work okay.
I have old (80's) campy strada cranks with 9/16 x 20F on the thread, and Kyokuto Top-Run pedals which read 7x7 or 7xZ which doesn't seem to relate to anything I can find.
My question is that the greased pedal screws in a few turns and then becomes fairly tight but still has a fair way to go. Should I keep with the pressure and force or will this stuff up the threads?
Any information would be great.
Thanks.
Joel.
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Be sure you're turning them the right way (right pedal screws in normal, left pedal is reverse). Have you cleaned the threads of the cranks too?
#3
efficienter
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Yeah degreased it all first.
I had a thought last night that it might be because I'm using an allen key which is pretty short and has less leverage than a spanner/wrench.
It's just not going in 'easily'.
I had a thought last night that it might be because I'm using an allen key which is pretty short and has less leverage than a spanner/wrench.
It's just not going in 'easily'.
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DO NOT put them in the wrong way round. If you do, it will seem fine and normal for the first ride or so but then your pedal will strip the hole, rendering your crank useless. Isn't there R / L on each pedal?
by the way, i have those cranks as well. are yours three-arms too?
by the way, i have those cranks as well. are yours three-arms too?
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Originally Posted by jol
Yeah degreased it all first.
I had a thought last night that it might be because I'm using an allen key which is pretty short and has less leverage than a spanner/wrench.
It's just not going in 'easily'.
I had a thought last night that it might be because I'm using an allen key which is pretty short and has less leverage than a spanner/wrench.
It's just not going in 'easily'.
use the proper tools. i know that many decent pedals have allen keys in the end of the spindle, but they are usually shallow.
go get yourself a pedal wrench. performance has them for under $20 i believe (for the performance brand). Park is obviously more expensive.
#8
aka mattio
Originally Posted by tbrtbx
Useless : Why do you need a pedal wrench? Won't an ordinary 15mm spanner do the job?
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Originally Posted by tbrtbx
Useless : Why do you need a pedal wrench? Won't an ordinary 15mm spanner do the job?
but other times the flats for the wrench are really narrow so you need a thin pedal wrench.
to the OP.
if you're encountering that much resistance right away don't force it. Sounds like you're crossthreading
#10
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I was quite careful to make sure I wasn't crossthreading. Both pedals had the same resistance. So, the threads SHOULD be compatible right?
#11
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i have a set of campy 151 pista cranks that will only let me thread in campy pista pedals. tried kkt pedals, suntour cyclones, specialized, mks, none would go all the way in before feeling tight except the campy pedals. this probably doesn't help at all but anyways.
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I had the same problem a little shot of wd40 to clean it out then a regreased and we rolln'