Join Date: Aug 2006
Bikes: Clemente Custom(not built-up), TI Raleigh Record SS, VitaSprint Mixte SS, IRO S.E.(coming) Ibex Trophy Pro
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I found this on the everything2 website.
Us newbies can benefit from info like this. It's the reason we join forums.
"Adjusting chainline can be done at two locations, of course: the cog or the chainring.
At the chainwheel end, you can change a number of things to adjust where it will pull the chain. Bolting the chainring on the opposite side of the crank spider, using chainring spacers, and using a different chainring (if it has more than one) are all easy, cheap ways to move your chainring around to the left and right. If you are desperate for a nice change, you'll have to remove your cranks (requires special tools), remove the bottom bracket (requires special tools), and get a new bottom bracket with a different spindle length or just a new bottom bracket spindle and install these (special tools required), and reinstall your cranks. As you can tell, this is a difficult and somewhat expensive process if you don't already own the tools needed. Luckily, your LBS will probably be happy to help you for a more reasonable price. If you want a perfect chainline that looks like the bike was built for, this is the way to go.
At the cog end, you can do very little. The only thing you can really do is push the cog a little bit further out from the hub with a spacer, such as a large washer or an old bottom bracket lockring (availabe at your LBS, of course). Another possible alternative is to adjust the spacers on the axle itself. This will push the entire wheel to the left and right, so you have to watch your tire clearance. Moving the wheel around will affect the look of the bike drastically, and may affect the ride itself. Most people would recommend moving the chainring instead, but if you've already reached the end of your wallet and need to get a little bit more, try moving the wheel. Don't say I didn't warn you."
You guys may know this. I posted it for those who need to.