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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 02-13-07, 03:08 PM   #1
mcoons
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Stripped Crank Question

I was riding in the snow to the bus this morning and get to the top of the hill, and my pedal feels weird...the next thing I know my clipless pedal is only attached to my foot - and not the bicycle!

I'm pretty sure my cranks are stripped out (there was a piece of metal in the threads of the pedal), so how do I choose new cranks?

The old ones are Sugino Impel 500, but how do I determine which will fit? Anyone have recommendations? I'm on a 96 Nishiki Pinnacle.

I only need this for one speed, either 34 or 36 tooth cog...
specs I found on the web...
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-LP27, 110.5mm spindle
Bottom Bracket Shell Width 68mm English
Bottom Bracket Spindle Length 110.5mm

Thanks
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Old 02-13-07, 03:25 PM   #2
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I'm assuming you stripped the R side, if you just screwed up the left you can just get any old crank arm to replace them, no biggie just get the right length and maybe the right color if you're into that sort of thing.

Other than that, we need to know more about your setup. Singlespeed or fixed? redished wheel, cassette wheel, SS/FG specific wheel? How was your chainline before?
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Old 02-13-07, 03:38 PM   #3
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Yes, the right side.

flip flop hub - ss/fg wheel - with a 32/18, it worked out to a magic gear without a tensioner.
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Old 02-13-07, 03:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoons
with a 32/18, it worked out to a magic gear without a tensioner.
i mean i get that you must have vertical drop outs but come on, 32x18, either you live on some ridiculous hills or you love spinning but that's nuts
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Old 02-13-07, 03:57 PM   #5
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You may want to figure out why your pedal came out like that.

As for the crank, you may also need to but a new BB that will go with the new crank to give you a proper chainline.
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Old 02-13-07, 04:00 PM   #6
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Always grease the threads.
Enjoy
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Old 02-13-07, 04:53 PM   #7
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I actually just stripped out my threads on my drive side crank arm too, though mine was because I rock it left side and forgot to locktite the threads. They strip real easy like that. Just find another crankset somewhere and adjust BB length accordingly, not like they're expensive or anything.
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Old 02-13-07, 07:23 PM   #8
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you can always go to a LBS and get the threads re-tapped. Should be a quick, cheap procedure
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Old 02-13-07, 07:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nekochin
you can always go to a LBS and get the threads re-tapped. Should be a quick, cheap procedure
if it's stripped there won't be any metal there to re-tap. he could try a helicoil but that's probably more trouble than it's worth.
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Old 02-13-07, 08:54 PM   #10
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Ok, so you have standard 42mm chainline. Any standard singlespeed crank will work for you, though you probably won't be able to reuse that bottom bracket. Lots of people like the cheap stuff from FMF or bulletproof, or there is flashier stuff out there. However, 32t is smaller than what will fit on even the smallest road cranks, so if you want to keep running this gear you will need MTB stuff or a new rear gear.
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Old 02-14-07, 11:28 AM   #11
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...

Quote:
Originally Posted by soyboy
i mean i get that you must have vertical drop outs but come on, 32x18, either you live on some ridiculous hills or you love spinning but that's nuts
Maybe there are some really big climbs in Kansas city?
Sounds like MTB gearing to me. If you use the rule of 4,you can put a 14t cog on and shorten the chain a link.
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Old 02-14-07, 11:49 AM   #12
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yes, MTB gearing...I only ride it on the dirt or the snow. I may try and go to more of a 2/1 ratio, but with a tensioner.

A friend has a helicoil, so I'm going to try that.

Thanks all for the assistance.
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