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  1. #1
    sVe Bikkhu's Avatar
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    Gimme the dirt on 135mm rear hubs

    Hi

    Id like to hear from someone whos used various 135mm fixed or flip-flop rear hubs. I am building up a flat-barred CrossCheck for commuting duties and would like some info. How do On-Ones and Surlys compare? Should I expect hub slippage on the cheap models? I might save up to buy a Phil or a LeVel if they actually last longer and/or perform better.
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    Also does anyone have specific opinions of these iros.


    On paper they seem like the best deal available but I've never heard anything about them. Is it going to be hard to find a hollow axle to fit?

  3. #3
    sVe Bikkhu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    Also does anyone have specific opinions of these iros.


    On paper they seem like the best deal available but I've never heard anything about them. Is it going to be hard to find a hollow axle to fit?
    are those 135 or 130mm?
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    135 ss freehub/disk.

  5. #5
    sVe Bikkhu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    135 ss freehub/disk.
    Doh, I must be blind . Of course. IRO do not make 135mm fixie hubs, do they?
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    Well you could put a cog on the disk side of that hub or space out the other but they don't make a stock track cog and lock ring 135mm spaced hub.

  7. #7
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    The crosscheck will take 130's, get a 130 spaced IRO hub/wheelset and get on with your day, no?

    Level and Phil do not necessarily last longer, and no hub "performs better" unless it's being compared to some total junk, especially once you put phil-grade bearings in an IRO.
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

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    you can also space the 130 iro to 132.5 really easily and you won't have to stretch the dropouts to 135... that's that I do.

  9. #9
    sVe Bikkhu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landgolier
    The crosscheck will take 130's, get a 130 spaced IRO hub/wheelset and get on with your day, no?

    Level and Phil do not necessarily last longer, and no hub "performs better" unless it's being compared to some total junk, especially once you put phil-grade bearings in an IRO.
    How are the IROs sealed? Iv run a Phil before and remember they had some kind of rubber ring isolating the bearings - I ride in the crappiest weather (minus 17 celcius today) and the roads and cycleways are sprinkled with gravel and salt to help the ice melt, come the spring
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  10. #10
    sVe Bikkhu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    you can also space the 130 iro to 132.5 really easily and you won't have to stretch the dropouts to 135... that's that I do.
    spacers? axle swap?
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    the same way. If you dint them to be unacceptable you can put better cartridges in... It will still be a ****load cheaper then the phils.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikkhu
    spacers? axle swap?
    spacers on the same axle still a bit of axle sticking out out of the nuts. Probably the best option since the crosscheck has weird spacing and respacing something is the only way you will ever get an exact fit.

  13. #13
    sVe Bikkhu's Avatar
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    Thanks!
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    spacers on the same axle still a bit of axle sticking out out of the nuts. Probably the best option since the crosscheck has weird spacing and respacing something is the only way you will ever get an exact fit.
    I have an IRO sitting here that's spaced 126, and there is 7mm of thread sticking out on either side, so rest assured this will work fine. Just ask Tony to space it to 132 and he'll ship it to you that way.
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    I still want opinions of these iro hubs cause I am thinking of using these for a new mtb wheelset this summer.

  16. #16
    Bike fiend. Analog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    I still want opinions of these iro hubs cause I am thinking of using these for a new mtb wheelset this summer.
    If I'm not mistaken. Those IRO SS MTB hubs are rebranded formulas. If that's correct, then I've used them (the formulas), and I love them! Great hubs for the price. Nice for SS mountainbiking, but there is also enough room on the cassette so that I have a setup with 3 9-speed cogs and a derailler for a nice external 3-speed.

  17. #17
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    I still want opinions of these iro hubs cause I am thinking of using these for a new mtb wheelset this summer.
    I've heard that they are the same as the Nashbar SS disc hubs, and also Woodmans. They are pretty well regarded. The only complaints I've heard have been that they have only average engagement, nothing ridiculous like a Hope or CK.
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  18. #18
    Yup pyze-guy's Avatar
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    I have a new 135mm surly fixed/free hub. Sealed bearings and so far it's run like a dream. 2 months od snow salt and road goop and spins smooth as silk. Have had no issues with the axle slipping and the cog has stayed snug and never budged once when skidding.
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  19. #19
    or tarckeemoon, depending marqueemoon's Avatar
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    I've had my Surly single/single for about 9 months and it's been great. Are they as smooth as my Phil track hubs? No. Do I care? Not really.

  20. #20
    Perineal Pressurized dobber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    spacers on the same axle still a bit of axle sticking out out of the nuts. Probably the best option since the crosscheck has weird spacing and respacing something is the only way you will ever get an exact fit.
    The Cross Check is spaced 132.5 specifically so you can use either Road (130) or MTB hubs (135) without the need to respace. Since it's a steel frame there is no issues with spreading or squeezing the stays.

    Same with the IRO Rob Roy.

    One item to be aware of is that a road hub will probably be 42mm vs a MTB hub at 52mm chainline. Could have implications with ones choice of cranks.

    I went with a Phil 135mm hub and spaced my Sugino 75 crank out the appropriate amount.
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  21. #21
    Stinky McStinkface exfreewheeler's Avatar
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    I just recently asked Tony from IRO via email... IRO hubs don't come in 135 spacing.

    He said they are 132mm.

    Some people would say install them... just squeeze the stays in, but I wouldn't do it, specially if your frame is high-end.

    Surly and LeVeL makes 135mm fixed/fixed hubs. So does Phil Wood, but very $$$.
    Because, yeah... uh huh! Umm, yeah!

  22. #22
    2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM slvoid's Avatar
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    This is the only 135mm hub you should be considering...

  23. #23
    hateful little monkey jim-bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slvoid
    This is the only 135mm hub you should be considering...
    For the same money I could buy a surly hub and a mic and amplifier to match the loudness of a king hub.

  24. #24
    Stinky McStinkface exfreewheeler's Avatar
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    That's not a fixed gear, it's a SS. It's a great choice for SS but very $$$$.
    Because, yeah... uh huh! Umm, yeah!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobber
    The Cross Check is spaced 132.5 specifically so you can use either Road (130) or MTB hubs (135) without the need to respace. Since it's a steel frame there is no issues with spreading or squeezing the stays.
    It's nice especially in race situations to have a wheel that slides in neatly wihtout spreading anything and doesn't need and screwing to compress stuff. Even Al can be squeezed the few mm that the crosscheck is off but if you are messing with spacing anyway you might as well just do it right.

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