Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-26-07, 05:19 PM   #1
davidmcowan
Live Deliberately.
Thread Starter
 
davidmcowan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes: CETMA Cargo, Surly Big Dummy, Surly Straggler, Rocky Mountain Blizzard
Posts: 720
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Best way to tighten chain tension/insert back wheel

What are some of the methods that you long time fixie riders use to put the back wheel in and make sure that every thing is tensioned properly?
davidmcowan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:20 PM   #2
jim-bob
hateful little monkey
 
jim-bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes:
Posts: 5,274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Insert wheel.
Put chain on cog.
Pull wheel back.
Tighten nuts.
jim-bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:28 PM   #3
davidmcowan
Live Deliberately.
Thread Starter
 
davidmcowan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes: CETMA Cargo, Surly Big Dummy, Surly Straggler, Rocky Mountain Blizzard
Posts: 720
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Really? that easy? or are you just being the first of many wiseasses?
davidmcowan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:30 PM   #4
larry e.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: philadelphia
Bikes: stevens prestige, douglas matrix, lemond poprad sscx, specialized rockhopper sl
Posts: 128
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
its pretty much just that easy.
larry e. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:34 PM   #5
BuddyMike
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: massachusetts
Bikes:
Posts: 1,001
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I do the same thing. No chain tensioners. I have them on my bmx and they are a *****.
chain on cog.
put in my drop out.
pull wheel back.
tighten drivetrain side.
center and tighten other side.
BuddyMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:35 PM   #6
jim-bob
hateful little monkey
 
jim-bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: oakland, ca
Bikes:
Posts: 5,274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yeah, there's really not much to it.

Don't overanalyze it or you're likely to screw it up.
jim-bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:38 PM   #7
dutret
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: GA
Bikes:
Posts: 5,317
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
all the walking back and **** is for people who keep their chain too tight.

Instead of pulling I push though. I find it's easier to keep everything centered that way.
dutret is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:38 PM   #8
chinnt
tried to coast once
 
chinnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Benicia, CA
Bikes: Bianchi Pista, Calfee Tetra Pro
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I do it a little differently. To tension the chain, I stick my hand between the seat tube and the wheel with my palm facing the wheel. then you can expand your hand to push the wheel back in the dropouts with one hand and tighten the nuts with the other...to me this has always been easier than to pull on the back of the wheel....having your hand sandwiched there also allows you to adjust and center the wheel easier
chinnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 05:48 PM   #9
Cynikal
Team Beer
 
Cynikal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sacramento CA
Bikes: Too Many
Posts: 5,935
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
I'm picky about my tension so I tighten the non-drive side first and use my thumb on the rim (side to side) to get the correct tension. Tighten the drive side, then readjust the non-drive side so that the wheel is straight.
Cynikal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 06:05 PM   #10
mander
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Van BC
Bikes:
Posts: 3,744
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I use a tensioner mainly to prevent slippage. This makes getting the right amount of chain slack pretty easy. I test how the slack is like everyone else: i just hit/wiggle it with my 15mm wrench and see if it's loose. (Edit: loose=good) I'd never considered this hand sandwich method but it sounds like a good idea.

Last edited by mander; 02-26-07 at 06:37 PM.
mander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 06:12 PM   #11
blu3d0g
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Boston, MA
Bikes: trek 6700 mtb, raleigh rush hour
Posts: 326
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I use tug nuts because I had problems with slippage, and they make centering and tightening really easy. Other than that, just make sure you do it with the chain at it's tightest on the chain ring.
blu3d0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 06:18 PM   #12
skanking biker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Bikes:
Posts: 2,209
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-bob
Yeah, there's really not much to it.

Don't overanalyze it or you're likely to screw it up.

I can attest to that.
skanking biker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 06:25 PM   #13
queerpunk
aka mattio
 
queerpunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 6,053
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
i walk it back and forth, but not to get my chain tight. it's just the easiest way to make sure it's not too loose. i pull the wheel back, then push the tire and rim over toward the nondriveside chainstay (not all the way), then tighten the NDS nut, then push it centered and tighten the driveside. simple.
queerpunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 06:36 PM   #14
caloso
Packfodding 3
 
caloso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Ridley Excalibur, Gazelle Champion Mondial, On-One Pompino, Specialized Rock Hopper
Posts: 34,111
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
How does that caveman-simple quote go? And doesn't it apply here?
caloso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 07:20 PM   #15
freeskihp
70mm4$!n!
 
freeskihp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DC
Bikes: Sworks E5, ritte Bosberg
Posts: 1,757
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mander
I use a tensioner mainly to prevent slippage. This makes getting the right amount of chain slack pretty easy. I test how the slack is like everyone else: i just hit/wiggle it with my 15mm wrench and see if it's loose. (Edit: loose=good) I'd never considered this hand sandwich method but it sounds like a good idea.
I didn't know anybody besides me did this but it is a great method and usually gets the perfect tension
freeskihp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 07:40 PM   #16
cicleto
CICLETO
 
cicleto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Santiago ,Chile
Bikes: Bianchi
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
when i had my bmx i used to turn the bike upside down with the seat and the handlebars on the ground,then with a "broomstick" inserted until the rear of the rear brake bridge,and pivoting the lever on the wheel to push it backwaeds with your shoulder leaving both hands free to tighten the nuts,its a simple lever using the brake bridge as the fulcrum.
Understood?
cicleto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 09:19 PM   #17
666pack
tarck bike.com exile
 
666pack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: lancaster, pennsylvania
Bikes: bfssfg iro--black.
Posts: 2,058
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
it's not hard at all dude. at least not hard enough to require a thread.

sheldonbrown.com could have answered that question in about five seconds.
666pack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 09:49 PM   #18
davidmcowan
Live Deliberately.
Thread Starter
 
davidmcowan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes: CETMA Cargo, Surly Big Dummy, Surly Straggler, Rocky Mountain Blizzard
Posts: 720
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
666pack- I've read Sheldon's web page on it and frankly it is a little bit confusing. I couldn't quite figure it out. I am, however, quite happy that there is someone like you who thinks that creating the thread was such a waste of time that they took the time to post in it. Your post was so insightful, so helpful, so...so... arrogant.

Thanks to those of you who have posted useful stuff. I'll try out the palming technique tomorrow and see if I can get that bad boy aligned right so that I can rule out wheel issues as the source of my clunking.

Gracias,
davidmcowan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-07, 11:59 PM   #19
40x14
delicious
 
40x14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: nyc downtown
Bikes: The one under my bum.
Posts: 316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinnt
I do it a little differently. To tension the chain, I stick my hand between the seat tube and the wheel with my palm facing the wheel. then you can expand your hand to push the wheel back in the dropouts with one hand and tighten the nuts with the other...to me this has always been easier than to pull on the back of the wheel....having your hand sandwiched there also allows you to adjust and center the wheel easier
Ok, I'm a little late but I want to add to this... if you feel the chain is hard to get right and usually just a bit too tight then tighten the driveside 1/2 turn with the wrench before starting on the non-drive side. If it is just a bit too loose, then start by turning the non-driveside 1/2 turn with the wrench. The time to use the wrench for that 1/2 turn is right after thumb-tightening.

This experience comes from wanting to run lots of different gears on a well-loved and old trackbike that has grooves in the dropouts (from use). If you have a new frame, and don't change gears much, it should be pretty easy to get just right.
40x14 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-07, 08:01 AM   #20
Aeroplane
jack of one or two trades
 
Aeroplane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Posts: 5,637
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloso
How does that caveman-simple quote go? And doesn't it apply here?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Most things having to do with fixed-gear/SS are bone stupid, and folks who usually work on modern bikes aren't used to thinking at that caveman level.
At your service (internet famous)
Aeroplane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-07, 08:04 AM   #21
legalize_it
legalize bikes
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: bucks county, PA
Bikes: too damn many
Posts: 1,250
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mander
I'd never considered this hand sandwich method but it sounds like a good idea.
mmm.. hand sandwich. sounds delicious.
legalize_it is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-07, 08:27 AM   #22
1fluffhead
Senior Member
 
1fluffhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: baltimore
Bikes: Pake Track; Bianchi XL EV2 El Reparto Corse, Kona Jake the Snake
Posts: 1,663
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinnt
I do it a little differently. To tension the chain, I stick my hand between the seat tube and the wheel with my palm facing the wheel. then you can expand your hand to push the wheel back in the dropouts with one hand and tighten the nuts with the other...to me this has always been easier than to pull on the back of the wheel....having your hand sandwiched there also allows you to adjust and center the wheel easier
I use a rag instead of my hand between the seat tube and wheel and found that to be a lot easier especially when you have tight clearances. If you slowly rotate the wheel towards the seat tube with the rag there it increase the chain tension and allows for you to center and dial the alignment and tension you want with the freedom of using both your hands.
1fluffhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-07, 09:11 AM   #23
rule
Senior Member
 
rule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Wylie, Texas
Bikes:
Posts: 1,922
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
One of those rubber wedge doorstops and a wrench.
__________________
rule is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-07, 10:45 AM   #24
stevo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Bikes:
Posts: 997
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmcowan
666pack- I've read Sheldon's web page on it and frankly it is a little bit confusing. I couldn't quite figure it out.
Dave,

as others have said/implied, dont read to much into it. It really is as simple as jim-bob stated, and most people dont find a need for special techniques involving palms, broomsticks, seattubes, counting rotation, etc. Its really the same, simple, toolless technique that most 7-year olds use on their coasterbikes.

Is there some specific issue/problems your having with your tension to warrant special techniques?
stevo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-07, 10:53 AM   #25
noisebeam
Al
 
noisebeam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: AZ
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Posts: 14,114
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 431 Post(s)
First I do the unspeakable and flip my bike upside down.
Learn if your chain tension is even throughout crank rotation. Lower end chainrings can be eccentric. If tension varied you will learn with experience where to place crank arm so that when tension is not too much at tightest spot. For me this was hand tensioning at slack spot which nicely resulted in tight spot being just right (still some movement)
I push wheel back with hand on botton bracket area, pushing against frame and wheel - paying most attention to keeping wheel lined up with frame. Push tight, hand tighten nuts, keep pushing and snug gently with wrench.

My new bike with a nearly perfectly even chain tension has adjustment screws which i changed to knobs, these make setting tension very easy and quicker than I thought once I change screws to knobs.

Al
noisebeam is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:33 AM.