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  1. #1
    Cannondale Shill hmai18's Avatar
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    rust-proofing / to paint or not to paint



    Alright, I've had this thing for about a year now and use it as my commuter/around-town bike when I want to get somewhere when I don't want to use transit or ride my Cannondale. The guy who owned it before me stripped the paint down to the raw steel and I don't think he bothered clearcoating it or anything afterward. I've been using this thing in the rain occasionally and have started seeing signs of surface rust at the BB cluster:



    It's a great bike and I got it for a steal, so I don't want it rusting out on me. I'm probably going to tear it down and linseed oil the inside of the tubes in the next week or so, but have a question: when people say "boiled linseed oil," do they mean purchasing linseed oil and then boiling it at home, or can the boiled stuff be bought at Canadian Tire or Home Depot? I assume you just drop some into the tubes and swirl it around so that everything inside gets coated.

    I've also been debating whether or not to give the bike a rattle can job as well. I love the chrome look, but I don't want to deal with surface rust. I suppose I could just go over it with several layers of clear coat, but I feel that a bright chrome bike is going to attract unwanted attention from thieves. I use a Krypto Evolution U-lock whenever I have to lock it up, but I'm thinking that people are going to be less likely to notice a flat black bike than a bright and shiny silver one.

    If I was going to paint the thing, what kind of paint should I pick up from the hardware store? Getting it done at an automotiv painter or having it powder coated is not an option for me right now due to cost.

    Train smarter; ride harder; get faster; buy lighter (but not neccessarily in that order)
    2006 Cannondale CAAD8 (SOLD) | 2011 Cannondale CAAD10 | Centurion fixie

  2. #2
    baby eater!
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    Rustoleum always works well...if you want it to look good just be sure to primer it first and do a bunch of really thin layers..and let it dry really well in between each layer, and lightly sand in between each layer too..it just makes the paint alot more durable and even looking...

  3. #3
    Senior Member sorsha6's Avatar
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    I was just looking to do the exact same thing... there's some good looking stuff on the krylon website... probably very similar to rustoleum.
    I was thinking of getting the krylon rusttough primer and then a rusttough enamel over... maybe then with a clear coat.
    Here's the site...
    "Keep a positive attitude... Ignore the horror of it all!"

  4. #4
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
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    There is a paint expert on BF known as Dr. Deltron. Try for a response from him. Any lugged frame that is rideable is too nice to give to the rust demons. If nothing else clear-coat the rust to slow further damage.
    This space open

  5. #5
    Fred
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    Boiled Linseed oil can be processed linseed oil. But a commercial BLO finish usually contains solvents and other agents to promote better penetration and faster curing. It was used a lot on furniture and ***** stocks and is still used quite a bit today, although better finishes have been introduced. Starting as early as WWII, BLO was replaced with a Tung Oil formulation. I've never heard of it being used on metal.

    Spraying the rusty areas with Duro Extend, a rust neutralizer works well. If you are really cheap, use Coke or other mild acid.

    Rustoleum makes a heavy rust primer formula that goes on over surface rust pretty well. Their spray enamal finishes are quite durable and available almost everywhere. Alternatively, auto parts stores and WalMart carry Duplicolor, available in the full range of automoticve colors.

    It's all about surface prep. Neutralizing the rust, degreasing before applying primer, a light sanding and another wipedown, and spraying many thin coats outdoors on a warm, still day with low humidity all help.

    Rustoleum has some FAQ's on their website, ot to mention Dr. D's Dissertations here.

  6. #6
    thomas masini lives
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    there was a guy somewhere on here that painted a titanium frame with rust colored stand up paint

    try that why dont you
    ?

  7. #7
    Senior Member thatcher's Avatar
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    im really suprised the frame isnt more corroded.

  8. #8
    Junior member scotland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thatcher
    im really suprised the frame isnt more corroded.
    me too. Maybe it has a protective coating? Some old Italian bikes were fully chromed then painted. Also some chrome jobs are thinner/worse than others, hence the rust. I'm sure someone else will know more about this.

  9. #9
    out of shape
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    There's a product called Frame Saver that is made specifically for coating/rustproofing the inside of steel frames. If you have any doubts about the linseed oil, you can get Frame Saver at your LBS or online.

    Make sure you mitigate the rust areas (mechanically) before you apply any sort of finish: it'll ensure an even coat that won't chip off later.

  10. #10
    J E R S E Y S B E S T Jerseysbest's Avatar
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    That looks like he painted it with "chrome style" paint, and the rust by the BB is either a thin spot or he painted over some rust?
    Quote Originally Posted by SingingSabre View Post
    Cheating: a symptom of the problem.

  11. #11
    Strange As Angels Fixxxie's Avatar
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    Thats chrome plated
    Typical thin chrome they did so the lugs and highlight areas will be chrome
    I would just keep at it with steel wool to keep the rust at bay since it doesn't look like the tubes (thinnest and most sensitive part) are rusting. A bit of surface rust kept in check on the thick lugs probably wont jurt it and it looks cool all chrome like that.
    Quote Originally Posted by sefb222 View Post
    a good reason to form a demolition derby, for fixed gear bikes and the fools who love them.

  12. #12
    na975
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    naval gel

  13. #13
    Taking "s" outta "Fast" AfterThisNap's Avatar
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    The cost of 2-3 cans of primer, 2-3 cans of paint, 1-2 cans of clearcoat, is well over half the cost of a professional paint or powdercoat job, plus it chips and scratches really really easily.
    I spent a week stripping priming and spraypainting my frame, it took about that long for it look like ass. The powdercoat is amazing when it comes to durability.


    Boiled linseed oil is the same stuff you buy in a can at the hardware store, no need to heat it up. Plus, it's very flammable. I used JP weigels framesaver made for the purpose, ride all winter, and the frame is fine on the inside.
    Carries suspicious allegiance to Brooklyn Machine Works.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
    The cost of 2-3 cans of primer, 2-3 cans of paint, 1-2 cans of clearcoat, is well over half the cost of a professional paint or powdercoat job, plus it chips and scratches really really easily.
    I spent a week stripping priming and spraypainting my frame, it took about that long for it look like ass. The powdercoat is amazing when it comes to durability.


    Boiled linseed oil is the same stuff you buy in a can at the hardware store, no need to heat it up. Plus, it's very flammable. I used JP weigels framesaver made for the purpose, ride all winter, and the frame is fine on the inside.
    If homie does it right, he'll only need one can of primer, one can of paint and one can of clear coat. Not expensive.

    ...and Framesaver is excellent.

  15. #15
    Senior Member gfrance's Avatar
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    If it's thin chrome plate, and if you keep it as is, you could just wipe it down now and then with a WD40 coated rag. I do my rattlecan bike that way and it does an OK job freshening it up.

  16. #16
    Ho-Jahm Hocam's Avatar
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    Duct tape bicycle!
    Race-o-meter:
    Broken until next season

  17. #17
    Senior Member
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    Get a *** bluing kit and see how that looks it will definately be unique!!

  18. #18
    Upstanding member. Mike T.'s Avatar
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    That frame is chrome plated.

    Don't bother about any expensive commercial "frame saver" product. Just use a litre of engine oil inside the tubes, (pump it in with a dollar store turkey baster) swish around and let drain. Remove the seatpost and BB unit to get to the main tubes. There will be small holes in the ends of the stays and fork. What I use is auto rustproofing stuff that one of the rustproofing shops will sell you. If it's good enough for a 150k Porsche...................

  19. #19
    1337
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    I think that chrome looks way sexy! id personally keep it like that.
    just my .02

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