tivo_willieb's Raleigh Rebuild/Conversion with Pics...
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tivo_willieb's Raleigh Rebuild/Conversion with Pics...
Hi all, I've been in this forum for a few days now, looking around, trying to find all I can about Fixed Gear/SS. I was going to buy an old bike from a friend, but he ended up just giving it to me. I was hoping the frame and paint would have been in better shape, but it's not really. It was left outside, but since he gave it to me, I think I will rebuild it anyway. Do you guys/gals think it's worth it by looking at the pics?
I decided to convert to a fixed or single speed for a few reasons:
1.) Cheaper, easier, and faster to rebuild.
2.) Simplicity - A get away from my multigeared road bike.
3.) Clean look - I don't want any cables on it, I kind of like the clean look
4.) Just to have something different
I have done some research but have really not much of an idea on where to start. I've been reading the sticky DIY thread https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/259766-do-yourself-diy.html for the last several days. Still confused a little about what will work with my specific Raleigh, but I am still learning. Here's a few questions:
Before the questions, jfyi about me, I am very limited at painting junk. I am, however, very mechanically inclined and have a work stand and a good many tools, but I don't know much yet about building a bike from scratch. I want to build this thing with a nice compromise between light weight and cost.
1.) I don't really care to paint or do metal work. What's my best option here? Can I take the stripped frame to an auto body shop and say, "Just take the rust off and slap a coat of anything on it". Or should I just grin and bear it and try it myself with spray paint cans? I noticed most of your bikes are cleaned from stickers, labels and stuff, I kind of like the stickers, anyway to get new ones? Or is that just silly?
2.) Again, I am mechanically inclined but I know nothing about fixed/ss hubs, parts, chains, steering, what fits what bike, combination, etc. I guess I need some guidance and recommendations of parts with a good compromise between light weight and cost. I do most business with performance but willing to try some other fixed/ss specialty sites you suggest.
3.) SS or Fixed? - I think it'd be neat to try the Fixed, but I don't know if I'd like it all the time like that. I can't decide which one to go with. Is there a hub that can switch back and forth? If not I will probably go with SS so I can coast, especially if I decide to ride it in the mountains or something. I like mountains, however it's very flat where I live.
4.) Gear Ratio – I’ve been searching on the forums and from what I can gather, I think I’d be comfortable with a 49/15 or close to it. My ideal cadence on my road bike is a good bit lower than average, maybe 70-80 crusing cadence. Should I just figure out what gear combination I like as one gear on my road bike and start there? I'd actually rather have smaller gears on front and back, but noticed nothing was mentioned of rear cog below 15. In other words, I'd rather go with the smallest gear in the back possible so I don't have to go so high in the front for the same ratio. Is below 15 unheard of? Like maybe a 12 or 13? So like a 40/12 would be the same ratio as 49/15, I'd rather have the 40/12.
So here she is in all her glory. It’s a Raleigh Tri-lite probably from the early 80’s I’m guessing. The guy I bought it from says it’s about 30 years old.
Here's the full res link: https://www.satillacycling.com/images...e/DSCN0010.jpg
I decided to convert to a fixed or single speed for a few reasons:
1.) Cheaper, easier, and faster to rebuild.
2.) Simplicity - A get away from my multigeared road bike.
3.) Clean look - I don't want any cables on it, I kind of like the clean look
4.) Just to have something different
I have done some research but have really not much of an idea on where to start. I've been reading the sticky DIY thread https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/259766-do-yourself-diy.html for the last several days. Still confused a little about what will work with my specific Raleigh, but I am still learning. Here's a few questions:
Before the questions, jfyi about me, I am very limited at painting junk. I am, however, very mechanically inclined and have a work stand and a good many tools, but I don't know much yet about building a bike from scratch. I want to build this thing with a nice compromise between light weight and cost.
1.) I don't really care to paint or do metal work. What's my best option here? Can I take the stripped frame to an auto body shop and say, "Just take the rust off and slap a coat of anything on it". Or should I just grin and bear it and try it myself with spray paint cans? I noticed most of your bikes are cleaned from stickers, labels and stuff, I kind of like the stickers, anyway to get new ones? Or is that just silly?
2.) Again, I am mechanically inclined but I know nothing about fixed/ss hubs, parts, chains, steering, what fits what bike, combination, etc. I guess I need some guidance and recommendations of parts with a good compromise between light weight and cost. I do most business with performance but willing to try some other fixed/ss specialty sites you suggest.
3.) SS or Fixed? - I think it'd be neat to try the Fixed, but I don't know if I'd like it all the time like that. I can't decide which one to go with. Is there a hub that can switch back and forth? If not I will probably go with SS so I can coast, especially if I decide to ride it in the mountains or something. I like mountains, however it's very flat where I live.
4.) Gear Ratio – I’ve been searching on the forums and from what I can gather, I think I’d be comfortable with a 49/15 or close to it. My ideal cadence on my road bike is a good bit lower than average, maybe 70-80 crusing cadence. Should I just figure out what gear combination I like as one gear on my road bike and start there? I'd actually rather have smaller gears on front and back, but noticed nothing was mentioned of rear cog below 15. In other words, I'd rather go with the smallest gear in the back possible so I don't have to go so high in the front for the same ratio. Is below 15 unheard of? Like maybe a 12 or 13? So like a 40/12 would be the same ratio as 49/15, I'd rather have the 40/12.
So here she is in all her glory. It’s a Raleigh Tri-lite probably from the early 80’s I’m guessing. The guy I bought it from says it’s about 30 years old.
Here's the full res link: https://www.satillacycling.com/images...e/DSCN0010.jpg
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Have fun rebuilding it. It will be a good experience.
As for gear ratio... 49x15 is huge. We're talking track gearing huge. Try a 48x17 or 46x17 to save your knees. You don't want to be mashing all the time.
For parts... get some sort of wheels laced to Formula hubs. Formulas are nice. Get a fixed/fixed flip flop. With that, you can install a freewheel on one side and a fixed cog on the other. And, if you really like fixed, you can uninstall the freewheel and put two cogs on! You don't have that option with a fixed/free hub.
As for gear ratio... 49x15 is huge. We're talking track gearing huge. Try a 48x17 or 46x17 to save your knees. You don't want to be mashing all the time.
For parts... get some sort of wheels laced to Formula hubs. Formulas are nice. Get a fixed/fixed flip flop. With that, you can install a freewheel on one side and a fixed cog on the other. And, if you really like fixed, you can uninstall the freewheel and put two cogs on! You don't have that option with a fixed/free hub.
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That bike looks pretty well trashed. I'd make sure you can get the bottom bracket, headset cups and seatpost out of the frame before getting too ambitious bout new paint and parts.
Rebuilding bikes can be fun, and many times can be more money than logical.
Rebuilding bikes can be fun, and many times can be more money than logical.
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i wouldn't call that bike trashed, but it definitely needs some love. i like the internal cable routing!
1. rattlecan jobs can turn out pretty well if you're careful, but are also a big hassle for a paint job that is very likely to chip. you'll need lots of light coats and lots of clear. if you have the funds, look into having it liquid painted or powdercoated by a pro.
as for decals, go for it. restore it or perhaps just locate or have some raleigh ones made.
2. i don't know about that specific frame, but i imagine it's fairly standard threading, sizing, etc. i'd measure the rear spacing so you know what you're dealing with interms of a wheelset or hubs.
what other parts are you considering? i'd just replace what needs to be replaced (headset and bb more than likely) and keep the rest of the existing stuff. worry about upgrades and fancy pants stuff after it's running and you have a better idea about it's fit.
3. perhaps set it up fixed/free with two aero brakes and road bars.
be careful though; some cry baby will chime in about the uselessness and danger of a rear brake. be sure to ignore everything they say and belittle them accordingly.
4. i also race track with 50:15. that gear isn't much fun for around town. i typically run 48:16 for around town, and have a conversion setup at 40:15 with 27" wheels. i'd go for something in the high 70's for a gear ratio. ryanday's suggested ratios would be great.
12 and 13 tooth cogs are out there, but are sort of hard to come by and typically require a special lockring. 14 is the most common smallest cog.
1. rattlecan jobs can turn out pretty well if you're careful, but are also a big hassle for a paint job that is very likely to chip. you'll need lots of light coats and lots of clear. if you have the funds, look into having it liquid painted or powdercoated by a pro.
as for decals, go for it. restore it or perhaps just locate or have some raleigh ones made.
2. i don't know about that specific frame, but i imagine it's fairly standard threading, sizing, etc. i'd measure the rear spacing so you know what you're dealing with interms of a wheelset or hubs.
what other parts are you considering? i'd just replace what needs to be replaced (headset and bb more than likely) and keep the rest of the existing stuff. worry about upgrades and fancy pants stuff after it's running and you have a better idea about it's fit.
3. perhaps set it up fixed/free with two aero brakes and road bars.
be careful though; some cry baby will chime in about the uselessness and danger of a rear brake. be sure to ignore everything they say and belittle them accordingly.
4. i also race track with 50:15. that gear isn't much fun for around town. i typically run 48:16 for around town, and have a conversion setup at 40:15 with 27" wheels. i'd go for something in the high 70's for a gear ratio. ryanday's suggested ratios would be great.
12 and 13 tooth cogs are out there, but are sort of hard to come by and typically require a special lockring. 14 is the most common smallest cog.
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Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming.
I like the idea of a fixed/free hub. Umm, on the free hub side (SS?), does it use coaster brakes, or is it just freewheel? Do they make a fixed/free hub with coaster brakes? That way I wouldn't have to have hand brakes with cables.
I like the idea of a fixed/free hub. Umm, on the free hub side (SS?), does it use coaster brakes, or is it just freewheel? Do they make a fixed/free hub with coaster brakes? That way I wouldn't have to have hand brakes with cables.
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Devolution mentioned checking the headset and BB, I would also add - take it to a bike shop and make sure the frame is true, if it has been hit or beat on too bad, it could be out of whack which will cause many problems down the line if you don't identify it now.
Velocity rims / Forumula hubs = nice, also maybe Mavic Elipses, the rear can be set up as flip flop fixie to freewheel.
Frame repaint, yeah I'd go with rattle can, but you could drop $150 -$300 to get a proper paint job done.
Good Luck, Fun Project !
Velocity rims / Forumula hubs = nice, also maybe Mavic Elipses, the rear can be set up as flip flop fixie to freewheel.
Frame repaint, yeah I'd go with rattle can, but you could drop $150 -$300 to get a proper paint job done.
Good Luck, Fun Project !
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don't think I have ever seen a fixed/free with coaster brake hub. Pretty sure they don't exist. Could be done though for sure, would make the bike much heavier. If you are running fixed, you don't need brakes. If you are running freewheel, then yeah at least one brake!
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Originally Posted by jbucky1
don't think I have ever seen a fixed/free with coaster brake hub. Pretty sure they don't exist. Could be done though for sure, would make the bike much heavier. If you are running fixed, you don't need brakes. If you are running freewheel, then yeah at least one brake!
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Originally Posted by tivo_willieb
Is SS with coaster common? Or do all bikes I see with no cables/visible brakes have fixed?
Even with a coaster brake rear, it's still a good idea to run a front brake (i know, it doesn't look as sleek).
If you still have the old wheelset from the bike, you could try the suicide hub conversion to see if you like riding fixed, then either buy a real track wheel or coaster brake wheel.
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Originally Posted by Devolution
That bike looks pretty well trashed. I'd make sure you can get the bottom bracket, headset cups and seatpost out of the frame before getting too ambitious bout new paint and parts.
Rebuilding bikes can be fun, and many times can be more money than logical.
Rebuilding bikes can be fun, and many times can be more money than logical.
On a count your chickens before they hatch note, yesterday on my normal ride on my multi, I found the perfect SS ratio for me, which is 17/53. This equates to a 14/44 so that's what I'd like to start with. Or, in 15, a 15/47. But I'd rather have the 14/44 since both gears would be smaller.
Any tips-tricks on getting out the seat post?
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hmm, ok well I chunked the frame since I couldn't get the seat post out. I broke the sucker with a huge pipe wrench. I can't believe it was in there that tight.
Anyway I think I'll look for an old frame on ebay or something and do a ground-up rebuild and/or conversion.
Are there any vintage or even new frames that are a standard for building a ss/fixed from scratch? I want to build one with a good compromise between weight and cost. What frame do you recommend to start with?
Edit: Added pic
Anyway I think I'll look for an old frame on ebay or something and do a ground-up rebuild and/or conversion.
Are there any vintage or even new frames that are a standard for building a ss/fixed from scratch? I want to build one with a good compromise between weight and cost. What frame do you recommend to start with?
Edit: Added pic
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Last edited by willieb; 04-16-07 at 06:54 AM.