weight of disk wheel
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weight of disk wheel
how much does a disk like a zipp or others weigh. and whats the difference between that and a regular spoke one?
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heavier then a comparably priced carbon rimmed /about the same as a lightweight training wheel/lighter then what most people ride around on
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pretty much every manufacturer will have weights listed on their websites. check https://weightweenies.starbike.com/ to figure out how much your spoke/rim/hub wheels are
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Originally Posted by jacobpriest
build a disk? you work with carbon fiber? you like disaster?
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zipps are arround 900 grams
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Originally Posted by savier_pdx
you should probably learn how to spell it before you try and build it.
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Originally Posted by savier_pdx
you should probably learn how to spell it before you try and build it.
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Originally Posted by jacobpriest
build a disk? you work with carbon fiber? you like disaster?
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which if you have the proper tools and technical knowledge is completely possible. the circle is easy to creat e in a shop environment. the elipse? thats close to rocket science. up until the late 80's 3point cnc routers, mills couldnt do elipses, and they could it would take ******** forever.
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the harder part would be centering the hub with the "blank" so that it spins without any hop or wobble.
the blank would prolly be styrofoam right?
the blank would prolly be styrofoam right?
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Originally Posted by doofo
you should probably learn how to stfu before you say something
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iv got friends in the surfboard shaping industry n im pretty sure i could do this with some basic tools. making it light is another thing.
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Originally Posted by kludge
the harder part would be centering the hub with the "blank" so that it spins without any hop or wobble.
the blank would prolly be styrofoam right?
the blank would prolly be styrofoam right?
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i was thinking of
1. acurately mark out on both sides, the center of the styrofoam square.
2. using a circle cutting jig on the bangsaw, cut the foam down to 1/2 less dia than 700c(it would have to be an outfeed jig even the largest bandsaws dont have enough space to cut down something thats 700c)
3. using a bullnose router bit on the routertable cut a half round profile along the outer edge of the foam disc.
4. using appropriate jigs, tacking methods, glue, etc attach clincher/tubular rim to the outer profile of the disc
5. carve out hole on disc surface with forstener bit. the hole should be towards the outer diameter for the valve
6. bore second hole using the center points marked out earlier. this is where the hub will go.
7. mark a line directly across from the valvestem and hole. mount the hub and disc on truing stand. this is where you might have to possibly add some weight/balast to keep the wheel balanced. (this may or may not be a step)
9. using a sureform rasp, shape styrofoam disc. the idea is to creat a gradual and natural line from the outerflange of the hub down to the endge of your mounted rim. a hot wire could be used, but some modification to the device might have to occur so as not to create inaccurate or awkward cuts because of the hub body and its relation to the rest of the rim. there is the possiblity of creating your own jig where the known dimensions of the hub body are used to create a device/set up where a truing stand and hot wire are used together to create the desired profile.
10. finish with 80? grit paper
11. lay up carbon/kevlar in layers. be sure to minimize overlapping layers so as not to throw the wheel out of balance. be sure to bleed the layers properly
yadda yadda.
the hardest part is acuracy. you COULD just lay up some carbon but will it be safe? will it ride like ****?
1. acurately mark out on both sides, the center of the styrofoam square.
2. using a circle cutting jig on the bangsaw, cut the foam down to 1/2 less dia than 700c(it would have to be an outfeed jig even the largest bandsaws dont have enough space to cut down something thats 700c)
3. using a bullnose router bit on the routertable cut a half round profile along the outer edge of the foam disc.
4. using appropriate jigs, tacking methods, glue, etc attach clincher/tubular rim to the outer profile of the disc
5. carve out hole on disc surface with forstener bit. the hole should be towards the outer diameter for the valve
6. bore second hole using the center points marked out earlier. this is where the hub will go.
7. mark a line directly across from the valvestem and hole. mount the hub and disc on truing stand. this is where you might have to possibly add some weight/balast to keep the wheel balanced. (this may or may not be a step)
9. using a sureform rasp, shape styrofoam disc. the idea is to creat a gradual and natural line from the outerflange of the hub down to the endge of your mounted rim. a hot wire could be used, but some modification to the device might have to occur so as not to create inaccurate or awkward cuts because of the hub body and its relation to the rest of the rim. there is the possiblity of creating your own jig where the known dimensions of the hub body are used to create a device/set up where a truing stand and hot wire are used together to create the desired profile.
10. finish with 80? grit paper
11. lay up carbon/kevlar in layers. be sure to minimize overlapping layers so as not to throw the wheel out of balance. be sure to bleed the layers properly
yadda yadda.
the hardest part is acuracy. you COULD just lay up some carbon but will it be safe? will it ride like ****?