kmart

The wheelset I got for my fixie conversion came with track nuts on the front with the independently swiveling washer part, but on the rear the nut and washer part are one piece (not "real" track nuts). I decided back then that I didn't care about that, but now that I've taken my rear wheel off a few times I'm starting to notice those rear nuts eating into the chrome on the dropouts and chipping paint off

The Dura-Ace nuts are going for $17.95 on ebay, and probably for twice that much at my local (friendly but pricey) lbs

Will these nuts do their intended job as "real" track nuts, or are they too cheap to be trustworthy?
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...x?sc=QBIKE&x=y

goldener

oh my. must. resist. dirty. joke.

deathhare

deez nutz

MLPROJECT

you should pick up the nut bra

kmart

I was trying to make that innuendo noticeable. Sersiouly though, has anybody had problems with cheap track nuts failing?

the pope

More chance of stripping a cheap track nut. I have done that.

roadfix

I wouldn't hesitate to use those cheap nuts. The nuts that came with my Formulas and Suzues are probably no better.

DoshKel

Throw some salt on them.

kmart

Sweet. I'm gettin me some. While i'm at it i'll throw on some PEGS. Then i could take it off some sweet jumps...

Jonny Pockets

Maybe try some sanding or filing to make rounded edges on the washer part of the nut?

I'm speaking from absolutely no experience in this area.

Nuts.

operator

I've stripped about 4 track nuts now. **** them, the regular hardware store nut with built in non floating washers work just fine. There should be no paint on your dropouts ANYWAYS.

mander

I killed the original set of nuts that came with my Surly hub, from overtorquing (duh). I got a tensioner and started taking it a lot easier on the cheap pair I got as a replacement, and havent had a prob since. I baby them---when I flip my wheel, since the nuts have to come off to move the tensioner anyway, i take that time to clean and lube the axle and nut threads, and especially to clean and lube where the washer interfaces with the nut.

operator

At any rate I take a set of spare nuts with me when i go long distance.
no jokes plz

roadfix

....so do I, including cone locknuts......I've broken a couple of the formula ones on the road.

kmart

Good idea about the spares...I'm planning on doing a long ride on the fixie next weekend and I've been worrying about what would happen if I overtorqued the nuts after fixing a flat 50 miles from home.

*note to self, purchase spare nuts for saddlebag*

*titter*

trons

i cracked the washer part of a track nut the other day.. anyhow make sure the threading for your rear hub is 10x1 (formula, dimension, most japanese brands)
i'm looking for some to replace my miche nuts but its not that big of a deal atm

GeraldChan

Are the Dura-Ace ones that much? I lost one today and ordered 2, a replacement one and a spare for my DA high-flanged tubular wheelset.
I am having to ride my spare wheels which are Mavic Open Pros laced to HF Phils. They use old school Campy NR quick releases (straight skewres ) but they are CLINCHER wheels.
Gerry

travsi

damn people, stop over-torquing your nuts. really, track
nuts with floating washers are definitely better than cheap
ones with non-floating.

if your having to crank down your nuts that much, than
get some chain tugs...

GeraldChan

I don't believe my front lock nuts were over torqued. They just vibrated loose on the road. Has anyone else had that happen?
The ones that came with my DA hubs were a 1 piece design, so no floating washer. I've never heard of using a torque wrench on them; but if so what is the correct torque value in lb/ft not Newton/m.
Gerry

travsi

are you sure they are non-floating? did you buy them new?
i've never seen any da track hubs that come with non-floating
track nuts.

GeraldChan

Bought my hubs new in the box and those are the nuts that came on the solid axles. They were nice and shiny though.
Gerry