TheSergeant

Here's my issue: I have a set of Vintage Campagnolo 165 Pista cranks (non-date coded) that are going onto a Bob Jackson Vigorelli (68mm BB). I am having some issues tracking down a bottom bracket for this crank. Which of these options are the most viable?

Here is the crank:



1) New Campagnolo AC-H 111mm Symmetrical BB. Vintage campy need 109mm BB so the chainring would be set 1mm to the right.. Could I use a 1mm Freewheel Cassette Spacer on my wheelset, followed by my cog and then lockring to make up for the 1mm offset? Are the taper compatible? Cost: $30

2) Phil Wood BB "BRS11". Which is a 68mm BB w/ 111mm spindle and JIS taper. Phil Woods have 5mm worth of chainline adjustment and as they describe on their website: "JIS & older non Low Profile cranks (’93 & earlier Campagnolo cranks)". So I'm assuming that's the correct taper. It also worries me because it leads me to believe that Option #1 won't work because the taper is from a "94' & Later Campagnolo crank" (which they designate as ISO taper - Campagnolo). Is this the right BB? Total Cost ~$150

3) Lastly. I have an older Campy BB marked "68 - SS" which is for a double and is 114mm/asymmetrical. I have an opportunity to get "68-P-120" spindle, which is 109mm. My question is will that spindle fit into my existing cups? I know that the cups required must be "thin" as opposed to "thick cups". I just can't tell which cups I have. Would this work?



Thanks guys!

trons

you might be able to get away with using the non drive side of the 68-ss spindle. worth a shot

vobopl

For what it's worth: 70-P-120 109mm pista spindle I have has races spaced more narrow than symmetric Campy 111mm spindle for british BB - I was told that's because it was intended for alloy (=thicker) cups. OTOH I thought that all pista BB cups were steel.

To solve your fit problem - an old trick for adjusting a chainline of loose balls BB is to use different diameter balls DS than on NDS - you can move the chainline out using smaller balls on DS.

gregg

I run a newer ACH BB with similar era Campy Pista cranks, works fine.

TheSergeant

Trons: I have been using the non-drive side spindle on the drive side on my conversion for quite some time. The chainline is off my 1mm to the right, so it works but isn't perfect. However, you're left with a huge amount of noticeable spindle on the non drive. I thought about this but I figured since everything else on the bike is primo I might as well not "settle" for it on the bottom bracket.

Vobopl: The cups on this bottom bracket are steel, as is the lockring. I used the magnet test. There is "threading" on the inside of the bottom bracket where the spindle passes through. No idea why that's there. Also, I've heard about that trick for adjust chainline by using 3/16 and 1/4 bearings. Not sure if I want to do it though.

Gregg: Have you thought about putting a spacer before threading on your cog to "dial in" your chainline. 1mm isn't that much, but hey, it's still 1mm. Have you pulled the cranks off your bottom bracket since you've installed them? Are the tapers in the crank unaffected?

Any other input is greatly appreciated. Drop some knowledge on me! I'm mainly interested in hearing whether or not the 68-p-120 spindle will work with those cups. Anyone know?

coelcanth

probably won't work.. those pictured are the later thick rifled (to prevent dirt intrusion) cups.. pista bb used thin cups, as you know, w/ no rifling..

use a phil 108mm jis spindle or take the 68-P-120 spindle and scare up a set of cups.. bb from the nuovo gran sport gruppo used the same thin cups (with a cheaper/heavier solid spindle) so it's not as hard as finding a complete pista bb.. (in fact, i think i have some.. pm me if you'd like and i will start digging)

vobopl

Oh, I have the same BB - the helical "threading" acts as a centrifugal pump when you pedal, moving the grease + gunk from the BB outward. A clever way to keep your BB clean without seals.