Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Senior Member calf man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Atascadero, CA
    Posts
    169
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    track wheel on a road frame

    My rear wheel is about 20cm narrower than the space between the dropouts.
    Do I need spacers on the rear axle or is it okay to just tighten the bolts down and "bend" the frame into the narrower spacing of the wheel?

    It is an aluminum frame and it bends very easily. In fact, you can hand tighten the bolts pretty easily closing the 10cm gap on each side. I have been riding it this way for a few weeks now with no apperent problems.

    My question is if this is stressing my frame, will it cause the frame to break someday, and am I going to die?

  2. #2
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    4,418
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think you mean mm not cm. Spacers and possibly a longer axle would be the best solution.

  3. #3
    hello roadfix's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    My Bikes
    thank you for asking
    Posts
    18,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would add spacers.

  4. #4
    or tarckeemoon, depending marqueemoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    the pesto of cities
    My Bikes
    Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
    Posts
    7,017
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by calf man
    am I going to die?
    eventually

  5. #5
    Senior Member barba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,083
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would not do this with an aluminum frame. Spacers are a far better option, and depending on the hub you may already have plenty of axle.

  6. #6
    Senior Member garagegirl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    New England
    My Bikes
    Salsa Casseroll, Terry Despatch, Univega Supra Sport, Ritchey Swiss Cross, Redline Monocog, 1928 CCM Flyer, Raleigh 20
    Posts
    619
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What Barba said. It's not okay to bend aluminum. Fine for steel though.

  7. #7
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    My Bikes
    Masi Speciale Fixed, Surly 1x1, 2 70's Bianchi folders, Swingbike, Columbia Cruiser 3 spd, Specialized Big Hit and P.2, Cove G-Spot, Xtracycled Bianchi San Jose.
    Posts
    668
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I found myself in the same situation lastnight albeit with a steel frame when I started to convert my bianchi trofeo. My question is can I put spacers right on the end of the axle inside the frame or do they need to go inside of the hub?

  8. #8
    LF for the accentdeprived
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Budapest, Hungary
    Posts
    3,550
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That reminds me of something I saw earlier:
    A messie I saw riding had an MTB frame but rode fixed. What he had done was cut a pair of track ends from ~7mm steel sheet with a largish area of metal left above the actual ends, drill them, drill the dropouts of the frame and bolt the track ends to the inside of the dropouts. The axle ended up south of its original position of course.

    You get 120 spacing, track ends, the nastiest/coolest DIY look and a bit higher bb + a bit more aggressive frame angles. I tip my hat to you, Unknown Messenger.
    Quote Originally Posted by dutret
    Do you deny that you are clueless or do you just think that "moron" didn't need to be tacked on there?
    Bike on flickr and on FGG

  9. #9
    hello roadfix's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    My Bikes
    thank you for asking
    Posts
    18,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by streetlightpoet
    I found myself in the same situation lastnight albeit with a steel frame when I started to convert my bianchi trofeo. My question is can I put spacers right on the end of the axle inside the frame or do they need to go inside of the hub?
    It depends on the hub. You can do that as you say or you can place spacers between the cone and locknuts.

  10. #10
    It's an old photo Boss Moniker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Entropia
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R500, Specialized Hardrock
    Posts
    774
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I did a combination of the two for the fixie conversion I built; added about 7mm of spacers, and bent the dropouts/rear triangle arbitrarily so that the rear wheel installed easily. Later I had my LBS check the alignment, and they said it was fine. Later as I was adjusting for chainline, I ended up with more spacers on one side, and now I only have few threads engaging on my drive-side track nut, which worries me a little.

    So I recommend you skip the actual bending (especially because it's aluminum), and the peace-of-mind is absolutely worth it (I basically bought a new bike just so I'd feel safer with more 'solid', fixed-specific components). Measure your axle, the thickness of your dropouts, the track nuts, and calculate if you have enough room for spacers. If not, find a new axle. Do the job right, and make sure you can easily install the wheel with the correct alignment/chain tension.
    Quote Originally Posted by dutret View Post
    Just because I'm not angry anymore doesn't mean I don't think bossmoniker and every other hipster **** I see riding around on aerowheels isn't a piece of **** thats only use is to be an easy target for ridicule.

  11. #11
    Senior Member calf man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Atascadero, CA
    Posts
    169
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks you guys for the advice.
    I went and got some 2mm spacers and ended up with only 3 of them on each side. So my estimate of 20mm was a little off.
    Using two cone wrenches to remove the inside bolt, it only took about 10 minutes total, including remounting the wheel.

    Vertical dropouts with the magic 42-15 gear combo.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •