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  1. #1
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    mishun unpossible

    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon
    Note that for each tooth difference, the axle position in the fork end will change by 1/8" (3 mm.)
    I was thinking about retrofitting my mtb w/ a flipflop hub for some ss/fg goodness once the og drivetrain died, but I'm not sure it'll fly. Conditions range from nice smooth asphalt, perpendicular winds, and near flats, to 10-20mph head winds up ~5% grades of dirt/loose sand. Is it possible to have a reasonable selection of two gears, or will I have insurmountable problems with chain tension unless I'm She-Man and can power up those sandy hills at 400W?

    Also, if there really isn't a reasonable combo (i.e. I'd have a way slow city, or way hard climb) could I ream my rear dropouts out into the bike, and tap/thread some screws for adjustment, or would this compromise the structural integrity and run the risk of a warp core breach?

  2. #2
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    Surly dingle/white dos eno? I'm confused, vertical dropouts or no?
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

    -T.G.

  3. #3
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    Vert drop outs, hence the idea for reaming to avoid dealing w/ a super slow s[h]ity speeds if there's no doable combo for city/hills o' doom. Which is a guess, since I was hoping that maybe someone would be all, "hey man, I do that all the time, just run a X and Y."

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    hmm, so 2xFG, 2xSS, 1 & 1? I'm still lost. Could run fixed with magic gear and then ss with a tensioner, but SS would have to be higher.
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

    -T.G.

  5. #5
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyeinyoureye
    ss/fg
    1 & 1. fg for in town, ss for the hellish climb, or semi hard climbs plus quick/rocky descents. Your statement has intrigued me, by higher (ss w/ tensioner), do you mean less or more gear meters? I'm thinking a doable (physically) combo would be ~1-2 gear meters for the ss, and ~5-6 gear meters for the fg. Is this range is beyond chain tensioners?
    Last edited by lyeinyoureye; 05-23-07 at 11:52 PM.

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    more gear inches, b/c you need a smaller freewheel to create slack so you can use the tensioner. So that's backwards of what you want to do, unless you use 2 chainrings in some kind of fake quickbeam setup. Redishing a standard flipflop wheel can do something like this even better, you end up with one side having good chainline for the inner or middle ring and the other having good chainline for outer. Weird but cool.
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

    -T.G.

  7. #7
    Senior Member BoozyMcliverRot's Avatar
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    I ground down (back/forward) the vert drops on my homegrown,schwinn to get a couple MM of adjustment for a SS conversion and it worked awsome..........if you use QR skewers its iffy.....i swapped to a bolt on axle cause the QR kept slipping and eventualy bent.



    be carfule how much you grind off,it might bite you in the ass.
    http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...RVDGNYp-tthdQY How do hotdogs survive in the wild with no eyes or legs??

  8. #8
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    IC

    Then I would just have to have a suitable double chainwheel to switch as well before I go uphill.


    edit- And being able to grind down the drops is nice too, except I think I'd like to actually grind out enough space and tap/thread 'em so I could keep the QR skewers and have decent adjustability. Like this except into the bike.

    This is looking doable, thanks for the infoz!

  9. #9
    Large Member urodacus's Avatar
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    One posible solution is to run two crank chain rings, 2 or 3 teeth apart, and run two gears on the rear: one fixed and one SS freewheel, on a flip-flop hub. make the SS about 2 or 3 teeth bigger than the fixed.

    same number of gear teeth with two different combos: one fixed that ends up much higher geared than the other side, which you use for the rough stuff. the only hassle is changing the wheel over, for which you might like to keep it skewered rather than have a solid bolted axle. with vertical dropouts, there is not so much risk of pulling the axle around and moving the wheel forward under load.

    the other option is to find a magic gear combo that works for the hills you want to do, and just get better at spinning.
    i run a 42/16 SS and have no problem on 10-12% hills (well, not now, but they were tough when i started this commute last year) as well as keeping up with 35-40kmh traffic in the city. SS lets you coast so its not so bad in the traffic; spin like a mad propeller for 5 seconds, get up to speed, and then coast for a while while slipstreaming.... you can go a long way like that!
    05 Giant TCR Composite; 83 Colnago Saronni: 81 San Rensho Katana Super Export track bike, #A116-56; 89 Zunow Pentaglia: SOLD; 85 Tommasini: SOLD; 83 Guercotti: SOLD

  10. #10
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    The 42/16 would be nice for the fg/city, but I need something closer to 32/26 as of right now for that hill since it's about a two miles up dirt/sand and a 5% grade iirc, with possible ~10-20mph headwinds. It shocked me when I first took it, since I used to run a ~8% grade for a half mile when commuting np, but the loose dirt/rock and patches of sand that are a few inches deep really kill me. Crr probably increase by nearly an order of magnitude, and if present, the wind is just a knife in my bike.
    Last edited by lyeinyoureye; 05-24-07 at 01:15 PM.

  11. #11
    antisocialite dirtyphotons's Avatar
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    other possible solutions (just throwin em out there)

    2 different chains, but that might suck to carry. alternatively you could use a masterlink and carry an extra masterlink + a couple extra links of chain and do the tensioner/magic gear setup landgolier suggested.

    the double chainring solution (w/chain tensioner) seems like the easiest if you want a big range. you'll just have to space the wheel asymmetrically or live with a chainline that's slightly off. since you'll have brakes i wouldn't worry about it. you'll also still need to find a magic gear for fixed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    Because when fashion conflicts with function, I vote for function.

  12. #12
    elite
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    dude. just get one gear and ride it. dont use the gear to compensate. use your body. you will get stronger.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trackstar10
    dude. just get one gear and ride it. dont use the gear to compensate. use your body. you will get stronger.
    either that or use a geared bike. I hate having to move my wheel. I can't imagine having to do it a couple of times mid-ride.
    Quote Originally Posted by marqueemoon
    The correct response is "I live with your mom."

  14. #14
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    It's pretty much a matter of time. Going fg/ss would save time when mechanicing, and having two different near optimal gears that I switch once per ride would save time compared to having something that would make for a kinda tough climb, and mediocre city, or something that would make for a near unpossible climb and o.k. city, or an easy climb and slow city. I'd rather have a good combo for both because imo it'd save me the most time. Unless of course I can "get stronger" and either pop out ~600W for two miles at the end of my ride, or spin at 300rpm in the city. Then again, if I can pop out ~600W for two miles and spin at 300rpm, I dunno what I'd being doing here, that's first class athlete shiz.
    Last edited by lyeinyoureye; 05-24-07 at 01:26 PM.

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