This is all WRONG!
#1
put me back on my bike
Thread Starter
This is all WRONG!
My LBS finally finished building a fixed gear rear wheel for me, and its installed with a chain tensioner.
I've never ridden a fixie before, and I plan to do the daily commute on it. THe plan is it'll help in the build up for PBP in August.
I just tried a quick practice on it and it is so weird and plain wrong!
Normally, when mounting a bike you swing the pedal round to bottom, or maybe a bit higher so your weight gives it al a push, and coast for a bit as you swing your leg over the saddle. Then you frewheel for little bits as you click your shoes into the cleats.
But how the hell to you get going on a fixie? You either have to lift the back wheel to get the pedal to a sensible place, or just damn well push off in whatever unfortunate pedal position you stopped in.
And you have to keep pedalling while battling with cleats.
I also never realised hat when if I've been standing to pedal, I freewhell for a fraction as I get back down to the saddle. No can do on a fixie!
I'm full of fear for tomorrow's commute! I'm going to see my ringpiece a few times I reckon. I'd better leave earlier and take it nice and slow.
Any top tipes for a fixed gear newbie?
Thanks
Stew
I've never ridden a fixie before, and I plan to do the daily commute on it. THe plan is it'll help in the build up for PBP in August.
I just tried a quick practice on it and it is so weird and plain wrong!
Normally, when mounting a bike you swing the pedal round to bottom, or maybe a bit higher so your weight gives it al a push, and coast for a bit as you swing your leg over the saddle. Then you frewheel for little bits as you click your shoes into the cleats.
But how the hell to you get going on a fixie? You either have to lift the back wheel to get the pedal to a sensible place, or just damn well push off in whatever unfortunate pedal position you stopped in.
And you have to keep pedalling while battling with cleats.
I also never realised hat when if I've been standing to pedal, I freewhell for a fraction as I get back down to the saddle. No can do on a fixie!
I'm full of fear for tomorrow's commute! I'm going to see my ringpiece a few times I reckon. I'd better leave earlier and take it nice and slow.
Any top tipes for a fixed gear newbie?
Thanks
Stew
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#2
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first of all, chain tensioners do not belong on a fixie. They're not designed to take the back pedal pressure that you're bound to use on the bike. Bad idea.
Second, you'll get used to it. I take off like you would on a normal bike, then sit and clip the other foot in as the cranks turn. You'll get the hang of it.
Second, you'll get used to it. I take off like you would on a normal bike, then sit and clip the other foot in as the cranks turn. You'll get the hang of it.
#3
put me back on my bike
Thread Starter
Originally posted by LA Law
first of all, chain tensioners do not belong on a fixie. They're not designed to take the back pedal pressure that you're bound to use on the bike. Bad idea.
first of all, chain tensioners do not belong on a fixie. They're not designed to take the back pedal pressure that you're bound to use on the bike. Bad idea.
I requested a chain tensioner because when I had this bike as a single speed freewheel, I couldn't clamp the rear whel on tight enough. I thought that a chain tensioner would allow me to put the wheel right at the back of the dropouts & so make it easier to clamp.
This new hub tho doesn't have quick release so I can probably get the wheel much tighter with the nuts & spanners.
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If your chain is popping off just from resisting, you have some problems. Check you chain line and chain tension. Did you eat sh1t when the chain popped off? I haven't had that problem on my fix yet, but it used to happen on my BMX bike all the time and it was never pretty.
Hang in there. You will love not coasting.
Hang in there. You will love not coasting.
#5
hello
Stewart.........a chain tensioner is not necessary if you have horizontal or semi-horizontal dropouts. Get rid of it if you can.......
Believe me, in a couple days, you'll be completely accustomed to the feeling of being fixed and your pedal click-in problem will be long gone. I use eggbeater MTB and Speedplay road pedals on my fixies for the ease of clicking in.... You will automatically learn to time your pedal position when you come to a stop. When you're at a stoplight, grab the back of your saddle and lift your rear wheel and backpedal to your desired pedal position and you're ready to go.... Or better yet, you'll eventually learn to trackstand. All these things will come naturally the more you ride. Welcome to the club.
Believe me, in a couple days, you'll be completely accustomed to the feeling of being fixed and your pedal click-in problem will be long gone. I use eggbeater MTB and Speedplay road pedals on my fixies for the ease of clicking in.... You will automatically learn to time your pedal position when you come to a stop. When you're at a stoplight, grab the back of your saddle and lift your rear wheel and backpedal to your desired pedal position and you're ready to go.... Or better yet, you'll eventually learn to trackstand. All these things will come naturally the more you ride. Welcome to the club.
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Originally posted by stewartp
I just tried a quick practice on it and it is so weird and plain wrong!
I just tried a quick practice on it and it is so weird and plain wrong!
Normally, when mounting a bike you swing the pedal round to bottom, or maybe a bit higher so your weight gives it al a push, and coast for a bit as you swing your leg over the saddle. Then you frewheel for little bits as you click your shoes into the cleats.
But how the hell to you get going on a fixie? You either have to lift the back wheel to get the pedal to a sensible place, or just damn well push off in whatever unfortunate pedal position you stopped in.
But how the hell to you get going on a fixie? You either have to lift the back wheel to get the pedal to a sensible place, or just damn well push off in whatever unfortunate pedal position you stopped in.
there are other fixed/track things that you do, like instead of straddling the bike by throwing your leg over the saddle, you throw it over the bars, since the bars are typically much lower than the saddle, on a fixed/track bike.
And you have to keep pedalling while battling with cleats.
I also never realised hat when if I've been standing to pedal, I freewhell for a fraction as I get back down to the saddle. No can do on a fixie!
I also never realised hat when if I've been standing to pedal, I freewhell for a fraction as I get back down to the saddle. No can do on a fixie!
i get the bike going, and when my unclipped pedal rolls around by 12 o'clock i flip it and clip in. this is the ideal way to do it. if you catch speed and start pedaling fast, you'll have a much harder time clipping in. however, since you have clipless, this shouldn't even be an issue. just get double sided pedals or something.
I'm full of fear for tomorrow's commute! I'm going to see my ringpiece a few times I reckon. I'd better leave earlier and take it nice and slow.
#7
hello
Originally posted by stewartp
Normally, when mounting a bike you swing the pedal round to bottom, or maybe a bit higher so your weight gives it al a push, and coast for a bit as you swing your leg over the saddle.
Normally, when mounting a bike you swing the pedal round to bottom, or maybe a bit higher so your weight gives it al a push, and coast for a bit as you swing your leg over the saddle.
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Start with the pedal kind of high to give you more of a chance to pedal with power before calling on your other(unclipped) foot to power you forward.
Learn how to track stand, very useful for brief stops. Easy(ier) on fixed bike.
If you have never noticed that you pause as you drop back into the saddle, then you must not have ridden in a pace line( and listened to all the yelling when you did it and "stumbled the line".
Learn how to track stand, very useful for brief stops. Easy(ier) on fixed bike.
If you have never noticed that you pause as you drop back into the saddle, then you must not have ridden in a pace line( and listened to all the yelling when you did it and "stumbled the line".
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Originally posted by LA Law
first of all, chain tensioners do not belong on a fixie. They're not designed to take the back pedal pressure that you're bound to use on the bike. Bad idea.
Second, you'll get used to it. I take off like you would on a normal bike, then sit and clip the other foot in as the cranks turn. You'll get the hang of it.
first of all, chain tensioners do not belong on a fixie. They're not designed to take the back pedal pressure that you're bound to use on the bike. Bad idea.
Second, you'll get used to it. I take off like you would on a normal bike, then sit and clip the other foot in as the cranks turn. You'll get the hang of it.
#10
put me back on my bike
Thread Starter
Originally posted by OneTinSloth
when you say "chain tensioners" are you talking about the kind that use spring tension on the chain itself to take up the slack? because THOSE are definitely a bad idea on a fixie.
when you say "chain tensioners" are you talking about the kind that use spring tension on the chain itself to take up the slack? because THOSE are definitely a bad idea on a fixie.
Stew
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Is your axle fitted with over-sized track nuts, with built-in washers? These are much more effective than standard bolts which come with cheapie bikes. Use a ring spanner (whats that in the US) to get it really tight.
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed/index.html
https://www.63xc.com/gregg/101_1.htm
both of those guys do more justice to the subject than i ever could. the tips they provided got me up to speed much faster than if i'd done it all alone. have fun.
https://www.63xc.com/gregg/101_1.htm
both of those guys do more justice to the subject than i ever could. the tips they provided got me up to speed much faster than if i'd done it all alone. have fun.
#14
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Stewart, nothing to contribute here except I notice reference to PBP. I take it that is Paris Brest Paris.
The guy I cycle with did this and said he had pins and needles in his hands for days afterwards.
Use well padded bars and good gloves.!! You have my admiration - what a feat (even qualifying)
The guy I cycle with did this and said he had pins and needles in his hands for days afterwards.
Use well padded bars and good gloves.!! You have my admiration - what a feat (even qualifying)
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plus je vois les hommes, plus j'admire les chiens
1985 Sandy Gilchrist-Colin Laing built 531c Audax/fast tourer.
1964 Flying Scot Continental (531)
1995 Cinelli Supercorsa (Columbus SLX)
1980s Holdsworth Mistral fixed (531)
2005 Dahon Speed 6 (folder)
(YES I LIKE STEEL)
2008 Viking Saratoga tandem
2008 Micmo Sirocco Hybrid (aluminium!)
2012 BTwin Rockrider 8.1
plus je vois les hommes, plus j'admire les chiens
1985 Sandy Gilchrist-Colin Laing built 531c Audax/fast tourer.
1964 Flying Scot Continental (531)
1995 Cinelli Supercorsa (Columbus SLX)
1980s Holdsworth Mistral fixed (531)
2005 Dahon Speed 6 (folder)
(YES I LIKE STEEL)
2008 Viking Saratoga tandem
2008 Micmo Sirocco Hybrid (aluminium!)
2012 BTwin Rockrider 8.1
#15
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Stewart, how'd it go? I hope it turned out cool for you. My advise would have been start out riding with platforms before you go to clipless, it is a lot easier to learn, and offers you better foot positioning. All the things you said are true, we've all experieinced them, and still do. I made the mistake one day of building a new fixed gear, and didn't lock the chain, stood on the pedal to take off and snaped it open and fell over hndle bars. A tensioner is something useful for a single speed, a fixed gear needs to keep the chain rather taunt, glad you were replacing it.