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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 06-16-10, 09:16 PM   #9801
klaw091
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Originally Posted by calv View Post
alright, i'm going to try to assemble it


edit: it's telling me to put a little grease in the seat post, what kind of grease should i use? Phil waterproof?
i would say put whatever grease you have on it, your seat post will not know the difference, and its always static or at least should be.
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Old 06-16-10, 09:24 PM   #9802
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haha calv! we like ordered the exact same parts. Except i got some Phil grease, and some nitto pursuit bars, and gr-9/cages/straps.

and i have had great experiences with niagara.. they take like 4~5 days to ship it, but once it ships, it usually gets to me within 1 or 2 days. maybe its because i live like only 500 miles from them.... but yea, why didnt you order the DA lockring/cog from niagara too? they have em in stock too. you couldve saved on shipping and couldve gotten all 3 together.
lol i didn't order it yet, i just got my bike a few hours ago and want to get it built first! lol. i just linked a bundle amazon recommended, i'll change the supplier to whoever is cheapest and most reputable.


anyways, i read a thread about what grease people used, someone posted an impressive reply about blue marine grease being a good general all purpose grease for bikes, so I bought Sta-Lube Multi-Purpose Marine Grease (Boat Trailer & Marine Equipment)



Can someone tell me what I need to grease while assembling my bike? I'm going to grease everything with a thread, the dropbars and stem?, the seatpost.. what else? And what else should I do before I can ride my bike? Are my cog and lockring already set for now?

Last edited by calv; 06-16-10 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 06-16-10, 09:56 PM   #9803
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the things that needed to be greased already were for my kilo. if you feel you need more, then it couldn't hurt i guess. wait, i did grease the pedal threads. the cog and lockring were tight as well, but again tightening the **** out of those couldn't hurt either.
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Old 06-16-10, 10:24 PM   #9804
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its like your front wheel cost as much as the bike.
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Old 06-16-10, 11:37 PM   #9805
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the things that needed to be greased already were for my kilo. if you feel you need more, then it couldn't hurt i guess. wait, i did grease the pedal threads. the cog and lockring were tight as well, but again tightening the **** out of those couldn't hurt either.
Well I want to know all the spots to grease more for knowledge and future ref.. Also, do you use the same tool to tighten the cog and lockring? Is a lockring wrench the only tool I can use?
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Old 06-16-10, 11:41 PM   #9806
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rotafix the cog.

or chainwhip if you're a wimp.
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Old 06-17-10, 12:26 AM   #9807
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i'm a ***** so i use a chainwhip. might as well invest in a lockring wrench too imo because you'll use it again.
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Old 06-17-10, 12:34 AM   #9808
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i'm kidding. i use a chainwhip too. i just am bitter because i got a really cheap one and broke it right off the bat and the LBS were dicks about it.
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Old 06-17-10, 02:31 AM   #9809
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so i got everything on except for the seatpost and pedals.. I got the front wheel on first, greased the threads on the bolt and washer.. got those in.

next I got the got the steam and bars on, I only greased the threads on the bolts, didn't grease the clamps, and couldn't figure out how to position my drop bars so i just positioned them by eye and what was comfortable.

should I actually grease the seatpost and the tube when I put the seat on? I'm going to grease the threads on the pedals already..

did I do anything wrong? should i do anything else? things left are the seat, pedals, and brakes..
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Old 06-17-10, 04:05 AM   #9810
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The post itself does not need to be greased. Unless you enjoy resetting it every other day. You don't necessarily need to grease the threads for the nuts of the wheel axle, but its not bad that you did. The main greased threads are cog, lockring, BB, Pedal bolts, chainring bolts, and pedal threads.
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Old 06-17-10, 04:11 AM   #9811
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The post itself does not need to be greased. Unless you enjoy resetting it every other day. You don't necessarily need to grease the threads for the nuts of the wheel axle, but its not bad that you did. The main greased threads are cog, lockring, BB, Pedal bolts, chainring bolts, and pedal threads.
Completely not true, always always grease your seatpost. Grease prevents rusting and oxidation, once aluminium is oxidised to steel...it is extremely tough to get it out. It is a good idea to grease the seatpost clamp bolt too, because we usually don't not touch it as much and it will eventually rust if grease was absent.
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Old 06-17-10, 04:26 AM   #9812
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CharneK - you're giving bunk advice.

Vixtor is correct about greasing a seatpost (a carbon seatpost, however, should never be greased). Also, greasing axle threads allows for greater tighening of the axle nuts.
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Old 06-17-10, 04:29 AM   #9813
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I stand corrected. Thanks to all, I learned something. I'll be more careful in the future with my advise.
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Old 06-17-10, 04:42 AM   #9814
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Old 06-17-10, 11:20 AM   #9815
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thank you all man you guys are life savers. since my bike came preassembled, should i disassemble it and regrease? or do you think i'm fine? i have no idea what cogs, lockrings, bottom brackets are since i haven't even inspected it.. it was real late at night and just started building from common sense lol.

i think i see where the cog and lockring is though since i looked at pictures of the dura ace cog/lockring..
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Old 06-17-10, 07:27 PM   #9816
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cool i got my bike set up.

first and foremost, thank you all for giving me great help and tips on assembling my bike and giving me info to suck in.



the only thing i need to do is inflate the tires a little bit and I should be good to go. or am i? I couldn't inflate the tires because I didn't have a Presta pump, so I had to buy an adapter at my LBS, i also picked up a pedros trixie multi tool! i found out where the cog, lock ring and lock ring are but i don't know if I'm seriously supposed to follow BD's advice by tightening my pedals, lockring, and cog before and after EVERy ride.. seems like a lot of work? from what i read, the chain has to come off and since i don't have a chainwhip i'd have to rotafix it..

also, my brakelines are LOOOOOOONG lol, and not very tight, it's kind of slack. like i'll pull it, and when i release it it only goes back 3/4 of the way, and kind just sits where it is.. it's like there's no force pulling it back all the way.. is this normal or is there a way to fix this? i'm guessing I did something wrong.
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Old 06-17-10, 07:35 PM   #9817
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i don't tighten my stuff ever after install, but that's because i use grease. BD says that because they don't use good grease and they want you to be sure to set up the bike properly.

you should do it after every 100 miles really. doing things right can't hurt, even if it's not necessary.

setting up brakes and getting the lines run right is difficult.

with bikes that don't have cable stops, you really have to run a full cable and with that much cable you get a lot of friction. that means you have to have a return spring in your brake lever and it has to be STRONG. it's not that you did something wrong, it's that you didn't do it as right as you should if you want to have safe brakes. use high quality lines and housings with teflon and make sure it's as short as possible with curves only where you need them and no tight angles. then a tight return spring on your lever and you're good.

glad everyone's getting help! ride safe!
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Old 06-17-10, 07:35 PM   #9818
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Congrats on your new bike! The best thing you can do if you don't have the know-how yet is bring the bike to your LBS to have them check everything over, tighten and adjust things.

cc700 - I'm late on this but your bike looks amazing.
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Old 06-17-10, 07:41 PM   #9819
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good ****. i'll do just that next time.

I'll ride my bike for now, since I'm sure I greased pretty much everything I had to install with a thread and things like the seatpost clamp and pedals etc. but I'm still not knowledgeable enough to want to take out my chain and lock ring (but I really wanna grease it myself.. lol), but when I get my dura ace parts, i'll go for it.
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Old 06-17-10, 07:42 PM   #9820
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you spoke too soon! i ruined its good looks today with a cut down shorty fender.


cut it with tin snips!
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Old 06-17-10, 07:43 PM   #9821
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calv - Just MAKE SURE your cog/lockring are tight before riding. It's been said a zillion times around here that the threads on the stock Kilo hubs strip quite easily.
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Old 06-17-10, 07:55 PM   #9822
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calv - Just MAKE SURE your cog/lockring are tight before riding. It's been said a zillion times around here that the threads on the stock Kilo hubs strip quite easily.
i'm a little embarassed to say this but to me, every time i read something about tightening the cog and lockring, people already know what they're talking about.. so it's not noob friendly enough for me T_T ..

how do i KNOW that they're tight? when i look at it, it looks fine and the two nuts on the rear wheel are tight as hell.. from what i hear.. to tighten the cog rota fix style, you just loop the chain till it's tight, then run the rear wheel counter clockwise a bit.. to tighten the lockring i need the chain off and use the tool to tighten it and since it's reverse threaded, i should tighten it going counter clockwise ("lefty tighty righty loosey"?) is that right?
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Old 06-17-10, 09:02 PM   #9823
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1) Jam front wheel against a wall and stand on forward pedal to tighten cog.
2) Remove wheel and tighten lockring counter-clockwise (left) with lockring tool.
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Old 06-17-10, 09:31 PM   #9824
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Wow that easy? Thanks!
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Old 06-17-10, 09:52 PM   #9825
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It's that easy!
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