RahTx

Well, after reading this forum, Sheldon Brown's website, and Fixed Gear Gallery, I finally got my first fixed gear yesterday. I live very close to a Cycle Spectrum, so went with the Motobecane Messenger. Yes, I know it's not a "real" Motobecane. Yes, I know it's not a top-quality frame. The only fixed gear carried at my LBS (and they only had one) is a Bianchi Pista, and at $200 more, it was a little out of my price range. That said, I'm pretty happy with it so far.

My first ride was a little hairy...I had to fight the urge to coast or to let up on the pedals to do something like shift my body position. Felt like I was going to get thrown at any moment for about the first 10 minutes. After that, I started to get used to it a bit.

I kept both brakes on, and to be honest, I'm glad, because I didn't need yet another thing to unlearn. This bike will be used for commuting, so I'll probably at least keep the front brake on in the future.

I was a little surprised at just how hard an innocent-looking incline can be when you only have 1 gear. It's currently 48x16. Ideally, I would just get stronger and adapt, but I have 1 fairly long incline on my commute that I'm a little worried about. If I just can't get up the hill with the current gearing, are there any suggestions on a slightly larger size? How easy would that be to change (I've never done it...)?

dudezor

48/16 is a fairly high gearing, so it's not too suprising that climbing has been pretty tough for you. Maybe try an 18t cog. You'll find it much easier to learn speed control with your legs, skidding, trackstanding, and, of course, climbing.

RahTx

Yeah, I just read another thread about gearing. It seems most people suggest 17, but I don't plan on skidding much intentionally, so maybe I will go with 18. This part of Texas is not hilly per se, but does have a lot of long rollers that start to wear on you...

Is the Soma Track Kog from Nashbar a decent deal ($24.99)? Also, this is a dumb question, but I'm not sure whether I have a 1/8" or 3/32" chain. The BikesDirect site says it's 3/32", but it also says it's a KMC Z410 and when I do a search of that model, everywhere seems to say it's 1/8", so now I'm really confused.

Also, do I need any particular tools to switch this out? Are there basic instructions on how to do this out there somewhere? Or should I take this to the mechanics forum when I get to that point?

Thanks.

genericbikedude

Its probably 3/32. Also, the cog and lockring are the last things to go cheap on. I'd replace your lockring as well with a DA ($10). This will reduce the risk of stripping the threads. Otherwise, enjoy.

RahTx

Ok, thanks. I was looking on the Harris Cyclery site and was wondering if this combination would work:

Rockwerks 17t on the non-lockring-threaded side of the flip-flop hub
Rockwerks 18t + Shimano DA track lockring on the other side

Also, I know the different cog sizes from the original will cause the position of the axle in the fork to differ, but do you think it would be drastic enough to have to mess with chain length? I really am new to all this, so I'd like to avoid that if possible...

veggiemafia

I have a 16t Soma cog (1/8) on my beater, and it's seen probably 300 miles, and a 17t (1/8) on my nice bike, and it's seen probably 600-700 and they've both been great.

Chain length now, and whether or not it will be functional with a change of 2 teeth on the cog depends on where your axle is sitting right now. If your axle is slammed in the dropout all the way forward, then you'll probably have some difficulty using a larger cog, but if it's further back in the dropout, you're a Crunch Wrap Supreme.

roadfix

If you'd like to experiment, try running 17 & 19 cogs. You track ends should easily be able to handle a 3 tooth cog difference with proper chain length.

RahTx

Thanks all. I'll double-check the current axle placement tonight before making a decision.

Boss Moniker

Am I missing something? 17 and 18 is a one tooth difference. 17 and 19 is a two tooth difference. Veggie and roadfix, did I read your posts wrong?

Rahtx, 17 and 18 will be fine for your dropouts/ends. But if you want to make it work without changing the length of your chain, the axle should be almost as far back as it can go with the 16T (make sure the chain tension is adequate before observing). If it's in the middle or forward, you'll probably have to add a link or two, which would mean getting a new chain. Not a bad idea, you could do better than the stock one on there, but it's a bit of trouble. I recommend the SRAM PC58 or PC68 for 3/32" chainrings/cogs.

Good luck, and welcome to the world of fixed gears!

RahTx

I think veggiemafia was referring to the difference between the factory cog (16) and the largest I was considering getting (18). Same with roadfix, except to 19.

Anyways, it turns out the chain is in fact 1/8". I picked up a Surly 17t (one tooth shouldn't make a huge difference, both in terms of climbing, and axle position) at a local LBS (they and the other LBS didn't have anything bigger). Unfortunately I was unable to install it yet, because I can't for the life of me get the factory cog off. There are no markings on it, but if it's in fact a 1/8" cog, would that cause problems trying to remove it with a chainwhip that has a 3/32" chain on it (I have a generic nashbar-brand whip)? I read about a way to remove your cog with the existing chain, but I'd like to avoid that if possible, as it looks kind of tricky to avoid scratching the BB.

I rode to work today and I was able to get up my little hill...but I felt like I was going to puke when I got there. I need to get in shape

FraAngelico

i smell a sock puppet

Az B

I used an old 42 tooth chainring from an Ultegra road crank with a 16t cog to get some experience riding fixed with a somewhat friendlier hill gear. (It's very hilly here) What I leared was that it may feel better going up the hills, but it wasn't that great going down. I hit a happy medium with a 46 front chainring, 16t and 18t rear cogs.

Also, I totally agree on the brakes. I did a 64 mile ride on a rails to trails path without brakes (figured it would be safer) and decided there's nothing wrong with having a front brake.

Also, keep in mind that skidding is mostly a stunt. It has very little real world value and with an entry level bike like yours, you run the risk of stripping the threads on the hub if everything isn't tight.

Az

genericbikedude

do you have a tool to get the lockring off?

RahTx

Yes, I used the single hook side of a Park HCW-5.