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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 08-03-07, 01:55 PM   #1
qjo
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painting experiences?

I'm just looking for general tips. I've given up on powdercoating, because everyone seems to be way too busy to work on bikes for a while. I've heard that appliance paint is best for rattlecan jobs. Any truth to that? What is best for clear-coating? Thanks.
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Old 08-03-07, 03:01 PM   #2
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If you must rattlecan, the only way to really do it is expensive. Beadblasting followed by two part auto paint like Imron is the best way to go, but the paint is very expensive, ad very toxic. I wouldn't mess with using a clearcoat from another paint system. If you are going to clearcoat, use for example, duplicolor clear and base color.

Cheapest, easiest and worst? Wash the frame with citrus degreaser, scuff it with 400 grit wet/dry paper, no primer, just rattle can away. Appliance paint is probably as good as any, it will all be soft.

Hey, maybe your onto something, paint it one of those hideous avocado green colors that were popular colors for refrigerators in the 70s.

I'd wait for the powdercoater. Just did my road frame ($100)and the QRs can't chip the paint off the dropoputs.
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Old 08-03-07, 03:31 PM   #3
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scuff up old paint, prime with krylon, paint with krylon, clearcoat with krylon.

don't forget to sand in between priming, and painting. And maybe even between each coat of paint depending how they turn out. For best results. Do thin coats of paint.
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Old 08-03-07, 04:56 PM   #4
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not adding anything but...

krylon
sand well
automotive etching primer
long waits for drying
mad layerz of clear coat

it'll look great for a day or two. after that, it'll look great except for the places you touched it with anything remotely hard/scratchy.
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Old 08-03-07, 06:25 PM   #5
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I'd just wait for the powdercoat and ride the bike as is in the meantime.
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Old 08-03-07, 06:37 PM   #6
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Both of these frames have turned out great, and so far they've been pretty resistant to chips and scratches. I use Duplicolor stuff designed for cars. All I do is scuff up the old paint (if it;s in good condition), spray two really light coats about 5 minutes apart, then two medium coats 20 minutes apart or so. Clear about an hour later and I do 3 or 4 coats 20 minutes apart.


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Old 08-03-07, 07:09 PM   #7
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those look really good
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Old 08-03-07, 07:44 PM   #8
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my first rattlecan

can-o-strip
grind
epoxy fill
sand
prime
matte green
matte clear

the matte clear was weird, different smell (solvent), and it left a weird powder on the finish if it drifted down rather than being sprayed on. So I sprayed closer and too much. Then I was impatient. Its OK for now, but Ima gonna redo it in a couple of fortnights.
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Old 08-03-07, 07:58 PM   #9
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Rustoleum over Krylon.

Graffiti writers all around the US know... Rusto Got the Gusto(tm).

Krylon is watery in a lot of colors so it's hard to predict, colors like Ultra Flat Black are amazing while yellow is mostly pee water. Rustoleum is a hell of a lot more consistent, thick and high quality, and it's offshot brands (American Accents, Painters Touch) are both really good and have a lot of nice colors. This job below was done using AA/PT paint, though this frame is no longer in my position. Also, the detail around the headtube/seattube/bottom bracket shell was done with a brush.

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Old 08-03-07, 08:16 PM   #10
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Ive been using the Duplicote or color or whatever stuff and it works great, I use the self etching primer then color and then clear coat
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Old 08-03-07, 08:42 PM   #11
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I did such a ****ty job on mine. I freakin got 90% frame down to bare metal but didn't clean it well enough cause a few spots here and there the paint wouldn't stick, probably caused by oil from my hands or somewhere. Think I used just soap and water cause I ran out of degreaser, but if you do, make sure you clean the frame good with a good degreaser.

For the most part, the paint looks real good, just the few places where it bubbled or didn't cover and the few spots of leftover paint makes it crap.
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Old 08-03-07, 08:46 PM   #12
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I painted my bike with some bed liner in a can, it's paintable too and it's really scratch resistance. The only thing is it gives it a pretty textured finish but looks great.
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Old 08-03-07, 08:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by andre nickatina View Post
Rustoleum over Krylon.

Graffiti writers all around the US know... Rusto Got the Gusto(tm).

Krylon is watery in a lot of colors so it's hard to predict, colors like Ultra Flat Black are amazing while yellow is mostly pee water.[/IMG]
Yellow is thin in every brand. AXX is the thinnest pigment out there and you need a TON of it to actually make a bright yellow, so it'll end up watery no matter what. Same reason why oranges cover less than reds.

Krylon's good. Rustoleum is good too. No matter what you get, it's gonna chip off of the frame anyways, so just get whatever's on sale.
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Old 08-03-07, 08:59 PM   #14
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Yellow is thin in every brand. AXX is the thinnest pigment out there and you need a TON of it to actually make a bright yellow, so it'll end up watery no matter what. Same reason why oranges cover less than reds.

Krylon's good. Rustoleum is good too. No matter what you get, it's gonna chip off of the frame anyways, so just get whatever's on sale.
It's a matter of letting the paint dry properly. Ride your frame the next week and of course it's going to chip. I had my frame above sitting in a basement for 5 or 6 months, the paint is on there for good now. As for no thin yellows out there, there is a few (Montana and Belton).
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Old 08-03-07, 09:13 PM   #15
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Yeah what andre said, you guys also need to remember that a lot of pro paint jobs are baked on
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Old 08-03-07, 09:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tschoenb View Post
can-o-strip
grind
epoxy fill
sand
prime
matte green
matte clear

the matte clear was weird, different smell (solvent), and it left a weird powder on the finish if it drifted down rather than being sprayed on. So I sprayed closer and too much. Then I was impatient. Its OK for now, but Ima gonna redo it in a couple of fortnights.
That sounds like a normal Matte finish. Try a semi-gloss paint on a piece of cleaned up scrap metal and see if that was what you were looking for.
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Old 08-03-07, 10:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by qjo View Post
I'm just looking for general tips. I've given up on powdercoating, because everyone seems to be way too busy to work on bikes for a while. I've heard that appliance paint is best for rattlecan jobs. Any truth to that? What is best for clear-coating? Thanks.
Yeah, don't apply clearcoat when its 80 degrees and 60 percent humidity
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Old 08-04-07, 12:07 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by andre nickatina View Post
It's a matter of letting the paint dry properly. Ride your frame the next week and of course it's going to chip. I had my frame above sitting in a basement for 5 or 6 months, the paint is on there for good now. As for no thin yellows out there, there is a few (Montana and Belton).
a week seems adequate, i can't imagine waiting half a year for paint to harden
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Old 08-04-07, 12:14 AM   #19
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i'm not suggesting you do it, i'm just saying i had mine waiting for that long and now the paint is bonded on there for good, you'd have to crash the frame to chip it off.
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Old 08-04-07, 12:20 AM   #20
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i would like to wait that long but i'de also like to ride my bike. did you clear coat it?
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Old 08-04-07, 12:28 AM   #21
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yes. i did a "by the book" paint job... lots of sanding, primer, multiple layers of paint and clear coat at the end to seal it (multiple layers of that as well). in the end, i think i may have added a pound to the weight of the frame but it was an old raleigh beater so it makes no difference, and that's why it was being rattlecan'd anyway.
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Old 08-04-07, 12:39 AM   #22
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here's what i have been working on all night. i have had so many rattle can jobs go bad because i loose my patience. this is the first one that i have sanded and primed. i'm using some dupli-color and clear coat, hopefully i will have better results.
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Old 08-04-07, 01:11 AM   #23
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Not that you have access to a paint booth/gun but if you do and are looking to save some money. I have done really good prep work and used some rattle can for my colors and then an auto clear overtop. give it a week to cure and it should be a tank for relatively cheap. also consider buying a quart of clear between some friends and it becomes real cheap. The keys are to take the time to sand blast and degrease then prime it right away wearing gloves the whole time. then you won't get any bubbles. If you are lucky enough to live near a university look into their craft centers mine has a sandblaster and only costs 2 dollars to use the shop for a whole day, well worth it!
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Old 08-04-07, 01:24 AM   #24
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when i was reading your post i was thinking how i live near the university of oregon. then i saw your locationi and realized that its the same one you were talking about! what do you ride, maybe i've seen you around town?
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Old 08-04-07, 02:30 AM   #25
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a little tip on how to COMPLETELY remove fingerprint oils and other oils from a freshly stripped frame:

you need:

- Nitrile gloves, carbon filter mask, safety glasses (this is commonly called PersonalProtectiveEquipemtn or PPE)
- clean LINT free rags (lots)
- 1 liter of Acetone
- ventilated room where your going to be spraying the frame.

start by setting up the frame in the spray position (hang it, stick it on a post etc...). don the gloves, grab a rag and liberally soak with acetone. Start wiping the frame down , being very careful not to miss any spots. Change the rag often and resoak with acetone. Wipe the frame down three - five times, until you can run a acetone soaked rag over the frame and the rag comes out still white. At this point you can mask the frame with painters tape. Once you have masked the frame, wipe down again twice (final prep clean). The acetone evaporates fast (dries).

now immediately shoot a primer coat, with whatever primer your using.

NOTE: i'm sure i'll receive flak for using acetone however one should realize the spray paint is FAR more toxic than the acetone. Please note the use of PPE (gloves, carbon mask or WELL ventilated space (exhaust and intake fans), eyeglasses). Youa re responsible for your own PPE and proper use of any solvent, paint, or other chemical. The reason i use acetone is it COMPLETELY removes ALL traces of skin oils, chain lube residue, opaint stripper residue etc etc etc. If you really object to using it, you can use methyl hydrate (99%), but it is slower to evaporate and can leave moisture behind (methyl hydrate is hydroscopic, it ATTRACTS moisture).

Last edited by Bushman; 08-04-07 at 02:50 AM.
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