Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    31
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    How's this look?

    I've started a few clueless threads lately, sorry about the redundancy. Anyway, I have selected a group of things that seem necessary to buy in order to build up a fixie. Is this list complete? Obviously I already have a frame and headset and handlebars etc. I'll post links.

    rear wheel and hub

    front wheel and hub

    chain

    sprocket

    cranks and chainring

    lock ring


    Ok, so with these parts, plus tires and pedals, am I able to completely build up a bike? Am I missing something? I think the wheels come with hubs. . .but am not 100%. This is kind of a lot of money for me to spend as well so if any of these parts are not so good (obviously their not top line but come on) let me know. I'm trying to stay cheap and I'm building an old road bike into a fixie.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    301
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    well, since the RD is coming with a 48t chain ring, i'd get a bigger cog...probably 17 or 18. if you plan on skidding a lot, i'd get a 17 so you're not constantly hitting the same spots.

    as far as wheels go, i'd just look on ebay for a mavic cxp22 laced to formula track hubs. they're a safe bet, and generally regarded as a better quality wheel than the weinmann's. also, i'd get a 700c wheel just because there will be a larger variety of tires for you to choose from than if you went with a 27" wheel.

    the chain is fine, but a lot of people find KMC chains are the cheapest/best/easiest to find chains around, plus KMC makes colored chains if you're into that.

    hope that helps, if any of my advice is ******** i'm sure someone will let you know.

  3. #3
    Senior Member pirate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    978
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Wheels are hubs laced to rims with spokes, so yes they come with hubs. Don't forget a bottom bracket, track or BMX chainring bolts (don't get regular cr bolts, they will be too long) and crank bolts. Brake(s) would be a good idea too. Why are you running 27"s, 700c wheels will grant you better tire selection. 48/15 seems like a pretty big gear ratio to push for your first fixed. maybe think about a bigger cog?
    “When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark,
    When work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having,
    Just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road,
    Without thought on anything but the ride you are taking.”
    -Arthur Conan Doyle


  4. #4
    Senior Member pirate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    978
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    damn, olly got to it first...
    “When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark,
    When work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having,
    Just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road,
    Without thought on anything but the ride you are taking.”
    -Arthur Conan Doyle


  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    301
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by pirate View Post
    damn, olly got to it first...


    just bored on a wednesday night!

  6. #6
    Stinky McStinkface exfreewheeler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Pa.
    My Bikes
    Clemente Custom(not built-up), TI Raleigh Record SS, VitaSprint Mixte SS, IRO S.E.(coming) Ibex Trophy Pro
    Posts
    943
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't think a chain made for a geared setup is the right choice. A fixed gear or SS chain shouldn't have the flex that you would get with a multispeed chain.

    Someone know otherwise?
    Because, yeah... uh huh! Umm, yeah!

  7. #7
    The Legitimiser Sammyboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Southampton, UK
    My Bikes
    Gazelle Trim Trophy, EG Bates Track Bike, HR Bates Cantiflex bike, Nigel Dean fixed gear conversion, Raleigh Royal, Falcon Westminster.
    Posts
    4,848
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It actually makes no difference. Track chain is just 1/8th chain, rather than 3/32. Lots of people run 3/32 rings and cogs, and use regular chain, and it's no problem.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    31
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the help everyone!

    I still haven't ordered yet, but here is what I have changed to based on comments:

    17 tooth cog is this too cheap?

    700c 32 spokes in silver

    chainring bolts

    I ended up keeping the same chain, going to those Mavic wheels (found for same price as the 27in.!), getting a 17 tooth sprocket (should I have changed the chainring/crank instead?), and picking up some chainring bolts. I'm if those chainring bolts cover the cog bolts pirate was talking about.

    thanks again for the help,

    Scott

  9. #9
    Walks with a limp dijos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    St Pete
    Posts
    1,341
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    86 Gi is a killer
    your cranks will come with the proper bolts IF you're buying a FG/SS single chainring like Sheldon's Selling.
    I am looking for a 52cm-ish lugged mixte or ladies frame. Pm if you got one.
    Quote Originally Posted by thebristolkid
    Last I checked, most college campuses were firmly attached to solid earth, which, in my experience, is typically adequate for riding a bicycle upon.

  10. #10
    jerk store mathletics's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Boston
    My Bikes
    '80s Chimo Garbage fixed 36/14, Centurion fixed 42/17
    Posts
    605
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't know anything about that cog. I've always used a Soma cog with a Dura Ace lockring. The total was always about $35 from my LBS. I'm sure you've seen it said before, but just to remind you, the cog/lockring is really the one area where you DO NOT want to opt for the cheaper solution. Get the good stuff.

  11. #11
    shot shot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    297
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here's a good "bike build" checklist I made a while back...
    It's useful to glance over and make sure you're not forgetting anything.

    Frame
    Fork
    Rear Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
    Front Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
    Headset
    Headset spacers
    Headset topcap
    Star fangled nut
    Stem
    Handlebar
    Seatpost clamp
    Seatpost
    Saddle
    Tires
    Rim tape
    Tubes
    Crank
    Chainrings
    Chainring bolts
    Bottom Bracket
    Chain
    Cassette/Freewheel/Cog/Lockring
    Pedals
    Grips / Bar Tape
    Bar Plugs
    Water Bottle Cage
    Brake Calipers
    Brake Cables
    Brake Levers
    Cable Crimp Ends
    Cable Ferrules

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    31
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mathletics View Post
    I don't know anything about that cog. I've always used a Soma cog with a Dura Ace lockring. The total was always about $35 from my LBS. I'm sure you've seen it said before, but just to remind you, the cog/lockring is really the one area where you DO NOT want to opt for the cheaper solution. Get the good stuff.
    Point taken. I'll upgrade my cog to: E.A.I. 17 tooth cog

    86 Gi is a killer
    What's this?

    Also, what about the 48/17 that I'd be running. Is this pretty normal? Should I maybe go 48/16?

  13. #13
    Senior Member iamtim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    La Habra, CA.
    Posts
    2,981
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott430 View Post
    Should I maybe go 48/16?
    Hah! I was just discussing that ratio in another thread. 48/16 is pretty tall for street usage. I'd stay with the 48/17, which is what I'm looking at going to.

  14. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    31
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok, I'll stick with 48/17. Also, I didn't see that build list before my last post, but that is very helpful. Thanks.

  15. #15
    Walks with a limp dijos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    St Pete
    Posts
    1,341
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott430 View Post
    Point taken. I'll upgrade my cog to: E.A.I. 17 tooth cog



    What's this?

    Also, what about the 48/17 that I'd be running. Is this pretty normal? Should I maybe go 48/16?
    every chainring and cog combo gives you a few numbers-ratio and Gear inches. Gear inches is a measure of how many inches you travel in one crank revolution.

    depending on where you live, it will vary from very small (60 ish, I guess) to huge (80+) Most are somewhere in the 70-79 range, based on my crappy memory about various threads here. The lower your GI, the more spinning you will have to do, but hills are easier. The higher, the faster you can go, but hills will be deadly. Also, backpedaling and skidding will be very, very difficult until you build up your strength.

    Look up the Rabbit Gear inch calculator, and play with it.

    Also, Soma cogs are only 1/8" as I remember.
    I am looking for a 52cm-ish lugged mixte or ladies frame. Pm if you got one.
    Quote Originally Posted by thebristolkid
    Last I checked, most college campuses were firmly attached to solid earth, which, in my experience, is typically adequate for riding a bicycle upon.

  16. #16
    jerk store mathletics's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Boston
    My Bikes
    '80s Chimo Garbage fixed 36/14, Centurion fixed 42/17
    Posts
    605
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    31
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    One more question.

    Don't most 70s road bikes (what I'll be using) take 27in. wheels? That's why I got those at first. Will 700c wheels fit? Right now I have an old 70s fuji and an early 70s schwinn. I haven't decided yet which I'll use. Both are the heaviest things I have EVER seen. Really I'm still looking for another frame that's lighter with those horizontal tracks to use.

    Yesterday I ran into this REALLY nice used frame that I bought, realized it was too tall for me, felt like an idiot for not measuring before I bought, and luckily was able to return like 10 min. after I bought it. If anyone in Houston wants it, it's at Cyclone Cycles and really cheap. 59cm. I don't remember the exact details of it anymore but it was close to a top line road frame from the 70's. Sorry I can't remember the specifics. It was really painful returning it because it didn't fit. It was exactly what I was looking for.

    So anyway, the original question: Will I run into trouble fitting those 700c's to a 70's road bike?

  18. #18
    Walks with a limp dijos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    St Pete
    Posts
    1,341
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    700c is smaller than 27"

    Brake reach may be a problem, though.
    I am looking for a 52cm-ish lugged mixte or ladies frame. Pm if you got one.
    Quote Originally Posted by thebristolkid
    Last I checked, most college campuses were firmly attached to solid earth, which, in my experience, is typically adequate for riding a bicycle upon.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Dostoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    minneapolis
    Posts
    93
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quite often there will be enough reach with your old calipers to just slide the brake pads down a bit in their slots for the slightly smaller 700c wheel. If not, old calipers that will work can probably be found for next to nothing at some LBS.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Chrysiptera's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Boston (Coolidge Corner in Brookline)
    Posts
    315
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by shot View Post
    Here's a good "bike build" checklist I made a while back...
    It's useful to glance over and make sure you're not forgetting anything.

    Frame
    Fork
    Rear Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
    Front Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
    Headset
    Headset spacers
    Headset topcap
    Star fangled nut
    Stem
    Handlebar
    Seatpost clamp
    Seatpost
    Saddle
    Tires
    Rim tape
    Tubes
    Crank
    Chainrings
    Chainring bolts
    Bottom Bracket
    Chain
    Cassette/Freewheel/Cog/Lockring
    Pedals
    Grips / Bar Tape
    Bar Plugs
    Water Bottle Cage
    Brake Calipers
    Brake Cables
    Brake Levers
    Cable Crimp Ends
    Cable Ferrules
    Nice list.. One thing jumped out as missing: Brake Pads

  21. #21
    Senior Member Chrysiptera's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Boston (Coolidge Corner in Brookline)
    Posts
    315
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dijos View Post
    700c is smaller than 27"

    Brake reach may be a problem, though.
    Brake reach is almost certainly the only problem, and the 700 series will allow you huge flexibility. For example if you want to run very skinny tires with extremely high air pressure. So far as I know the 27" tires stop at about 95 lbs of air, where you can put 130 lbs or more in a 700. Or you could run fat cross tires; or even metal studded tires in the winter. Not to mention the fact that you can get any tire under the sun in 700.

    Get 700's, 27" is old technology and in my opinion not well supported anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dostoy View Post
    Quite often there will be enough reach with your old calipers to just slide the brake pads down a bit in their slots for the slightly smaller 700c wheel. If not, old calipers that will work can probably be found for next to nothing at some LBS.
    I've put 700s on two older frames (my current Fuji build and my old Motobecane), and it worked on one and not the other. The Fuji with a Dia Compe 500 caliper worked, but the Moto with Weiman centerpulls did not. An important note is that I believe the brake reach of the DC 500 and Weiman are very close, but the fork clearance on the two bikes is different. So, don't generalize that a brake caliper will fit by model; get down on your bike and measure the distance.

  22. #22
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,714
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I would not use a chain designed for a geared bike. They are designed to move laterally and climb lifters in order to switch gears. Those are things that you don't want to happen on a fixed or single speed bike becasue you don't have gears and you don't have chain guides like geared bikes do, so the chain will drop if this happens.

    Get a BMX chain. Most BMX chains are stronger than geared bike chains. Most BMX chains are cheaper than $20.

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1,299
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    I would not use a chain designed for a geared bike. They are designed to move laterally and climb lifters in order to switch gears. Those are things that you don't want to happen on a fixed or single speed bike...
    ...and which won't happen with any chain if you have a good chainline/no lifters/no derailleurs encouraging it into such shenanigans.

    but if you're buying new and not re-using, you have the luxury of choosing. 1/8" chains are beefy as hell. if you're a monster masher or an avid skidder, this is what you want. if not, it really doesn't matter. get what's cheap.

    aside: stay away from the SRAM PC-1. horrible. it's cheap and you get what you pay for. i've broken one repeatedly on my XC singlespeed (because i was too stubborn to replace it). the kmc inox on there now is bulletproof but weighs 5lbs.

  24. #24
    FG 48x17 eaglevii's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    El 'Burque, NM
    My Bikes
    Lemond Road, IRO Rob Roy, Rush Hour Fixie
    Posts
    289
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dookie View Post
    ...and which won't happen with any chain if you have a good chainline/no lifters/no derailleurs encouraging it into such shenanigans.
    Agreed. I've been riding a KMC 7-speed chain on my fixed gear for many, many miles and have *never* had a problem with the chain climbing. With a chainring/cog with straight teeth, it just won't happen. (Incidentally, it's the chain that came with my Rush Hour). OTOH, I'm running the same type of chain on my SS MTB, but with a cassette cog (which has lifters, etc), and even with a straight chainline if the tension is too light, the chain pops right off. I don't know if a BMX chain would fix it (it would probably help), but I'm sure a proper SS cog would (but I'm too cheap to drop the $25 on one right now).

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •