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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 08-09-07, 07:41 AM   #1
nikos
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What tool to remove lockring to get my cog off.

I have the freewheel remover tool and chainwhip, but I want to swap my fixed gear cog and put it on another bike. What tool do I need to get the lock ring off?
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Old 08-09-07, 07:50 AM   #2
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Either a single notch lockring tool...the Hozan model is the best. Or Hozan lockring pliers...these are the absolute best tool for the job.
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Old 08-09-07, 07:51 AM   #3
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Hmmm, it sounds like you need some kind of wrench... for a lockring... hm... as far as i am aware no such product exists.
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Old 08-09-07, 11:50 AM   #4
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take it to your bike shop
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Old 08-09-07, 12:11 PM   #5
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Lockring tool- looks like this. Remember- the lockring is threadded backwards, so
its 'righty loosey'
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Old 08-09-07, 03:30 PM   #6
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I use the single-hook side of the Park HCW-5:
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Old 08-09-07, 03:56 PM   #7
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Be careful in installing the cog and lr on your new hub. Though it's easy if you know what you're doing, noob ****ups of this job are common and can result in a stripped hub. A search of these boards for "stripped hub" will turn up lots of info on how to install a cog correctly.
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Old 08-10-07, 12:44 AM   #8
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If you're careful, you could get away with a large pipe wrench. Of course, if you don't have one of those...
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Old 08-10-07, 07:45 AM   #9
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I use a hammer and tap on a screw driver to take off as well as to tighten my lockring. It's kind of violent, but I just tap as gently as possible. I've been doing it for a few years and have never had any problems...knock on wood.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:14 AM   #10
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I use a hammer and tap on a screw driver to take off as well as to tighten my lockring. It's kind of violent, but I just tap as gently as possible. I've been doing it for a few years and have never had any problems...knock on wood.
Thanks for the idea, Jinks. I tried the very same thing after reading this and it worked perfectly, no damage to the lockring at all.

I discovered my Park chain whip wasn't wide enough to fit over my 1/8" cog, though, so that sucked. I finally wrapped the cog in a hand towel, tightened it down in my bench vise just enough to hold it in place, and turned the wheel. The cog loosened with very little effort and no damage to the teeth.

So, if anyone else needs to get their cog off and doesn't have the right tools, all you need is:

- flat screw driver
- electrical tape (3 layers works well)
- hammer
- small towel
- bench vise


Proper tools are always best, but waiting on tools to ship sucks when you'd rather just fit it and go ride and, if your luck is anything like mine, the LBS will always be closed or out of stock when you need something.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:18 AM   #11
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I certainly hope you're not employing this method on expensive hubs...

The HCW-5 is like $12 and available in most shops. Contrary to Rahtx, I prefer the triple toothed side; it doesn't seem to slip as often under heavy torque.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:20 AM   #12
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I certainly hope you're not employing this method on expensive hubs...
Formulas.

Like I said, though, little effort was needed and I'm pretty careful in everything I do.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:21 AM   #13
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well I doubt very many of us have a vice, so how about rotafix method instead.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:23 AM   #14
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Hozan lockring pliers are, hands-down, the best option for getting a lockring on/off. One can also file down some big channel-lock pliers for the same effect.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:41 AM   #15
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Like I said, though, little effort was needed and I'm pretty careful in everything I do.
I'd just be worried about getting the lock ring tight enough if you skid. You'd probably be able to tap the lockring to where it seems like it's tight enough, but if you pull back hard to skid and it's not 100% tight, you could potentially walk the cog an strip the hub body.

If you do do this, I'd lay off the skids until you get a proper lockring wrench on there. You'd be surprised how much more turn you can get out of those things when you think they're tight.
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Old 10-11-09, 10:47 AM   #16
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Don't forget to grease the new cog before reinstalling.
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Old 10-11-09, 11:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo! View Post
Contrary to Rahtx, I prefer the triple toothed side; it doesn't seem to slip as often under heavy torque.
I like the tripled tooth side as well, I've slipped a lot using the single tooth.
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Old 10-11-09, 12:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Yo! View Post
I'd just be worried about getting the lock ring tight enough if you skid. You'd probably be able to tap the lockring to where it seems like it's tight enough, but if you pull back hard to skid and it's not 100% tight, you could potentially walk the cog an strip the hub body.

If you do do this, I'd lay off the skids until you get a proper lockring wrench on there. You'd be surprised how much more turn you can get out of those things when you think they're tight.
Like I said in my first post, it's best to use the proper tools.

I was actually taking the fixed cog off because I don't use it. If I was going to put it back on and use it, I'd definitely invest in the right tools. God knows I won't be happy until I can't get my bike toolbox lid closed.
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Old 10-11-09, 04:32 PM   #19
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I like the tripled tooth side as well, I've slipped a lot using the single tooth.
+3. the single tooth side never held once, slipped and ended up cutting my knuckles up on the spokes. Even the triple tooth side isnt that great. I hate the park lockring wrench. horrible.
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