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  1. #1
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    3/32" 144bcd track or SS chainring?

    does this exist besides the dura ace? i dont really wanna throw down 100 bucks on a chainring...

    also 42t would be awesome!

  2. #2
    <3s bikes Re-Cycle's Avatar
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    I don't intend to steer you away from what you are trying to do, but why do you want a 3/32" chainring?
    A wild man once explained to me how bicycles came from sailboats.

  3. #3
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    i am running a single speed and sometimes gears with a single chainring front. 1/8" will not work with gears as far as i know and running a single chainring front with ramped teeth i dont think would be safe...

    also i want 144bcd so i can get a track crank which would acheive a better chainline for the freehub im using....ie 42mm as opposed to 46mm

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    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    I have a couple of older sugino road cranks that had a 144 bcd. The chain rings exist but may be getting harder to find.

  5. #5
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    well i would prefer track rings to road rings as the teeth ramped on road. anyone else know where to find this?

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    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    They aren't ramped on older road rings. Have you looked at salsa?

    http://www.salsacycles.com/chainrings.html

    2nd one down.

  7. #7
    Senior Member barba's Avatar
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    Look in the old parts bin at your local shop. They may even just give you one, as there are plenty of old 3/32" in this world.

  8. #8
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    i saw those salsa ones before and didnt notice they were for single speed. PERFECT! thank you thank you thank you....

  9. #9
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    get a road crank. You can get the same chainline and will have no trouble finding 42t or 3/32. I assume "better chainline" means narrower and you will be able to go narrower with a road crank then a track one since the ring can be put on the inside.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cynikal View Post
    They aren't ramped on older road rings. Have you looked at salsa?

    http://www.salsacycles.com/chainrings.html

    2nd one down.
    The picture shows pins.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret View Post
    get a road crank. You can get the same chainline and will have no trouble finding 42t or 3/32. I assume "better chainline" means narrower and you will be able to go narrower with a road crank then a track one since the ring can be put on the inside.
    yes, it means narrower and youre right. but id rather go through the trouble and have the chainring on the outside because im anal. i have to get a new crankset and BB anyway so i might as well go for aesthetic as well as function....

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatigoworld View Post
    yes, it means narrower and youre right. but id rather go through the trouble and have the chainring on the outside because im anal. i have to get a new crankset and BB anyway so i might as well go for aesthetic as well as function....
    What you apparently fail to understand is that how narrow you can go is determined usually by where the chainring will hit the chainstay. Therefore you will normally be able to go just as narrow with a road crank as with a track crank. On rare ocaisions you will find that the limiting factor will be when the crank hits the chainstay. This can only happen when you have the ring on the outside. A track ring where you can only mount on the outside will at best provide the same chainline as a road crank an may force you to push it farther out.

    EDIT: now that I think about it with a 42t 144bcd setup the crank will likely hit first since the ring is barely bigger then it so the track crank is unlikely to even match the road crank in chainline.

    Pins help derail the chain they are worse then ramps... you don't really want them if you are only running a single ring up front. There are plenty of 130mm cross rings that fit your speficication but not many 144 ones.

    You should just get a road crank and use a cyclocross ring.
    Last edited by dutret; 08-20-07 at 03:15 PM.

  14. #14
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    youre right about all that. but between having the ring on the outer on track versus the outer on road. the track would be closer. road outer is 46mm. track is 42mm. and track doesnt have mounts for a inner chainring. i know it makes more sense to put it on a road inner and it would be a more efficient chainline (41mm), but i dont like how that looks, which makes sense too. making track the best choice for an outer chainring?
    Last edited by fatigoworld; 08-20-07 at 04:10 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatigoworld View Post
    youre right about all that. but between having the ring on the outer on track versus the outer on road. the track would be closer. road outer is 46mm. track is 42mm. and track doesnt have mounts for a inner chainring. i know it makes more sense to put it on a road inner and it would be a more efficient chainline (41mm), but i dont like how that looks, which makes sense too. making track the best choice for an outer chainring?
    I guess I wasn't clear. Chainline is not solely determined by the crank. It is a combination of the crank and the bb. If you get a shorter bb with a road crank you will be able to move the ring in even while you keep it on the outside of the spider. What limits how small of a chainline you can get in most cases is clearance with the chainstay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatigoworld View Post
    youre right about all that. but between having the ring on the outer on track versus the outer on road. the track would be closer. road outer is 46mm. track is 42mm. and track doesnt have mounts for a inner chainring. i know it makes more sense to put it on a road inner and it would be a more efficient chainline (41mm), but i dont like how that looks, which makes sense too. making track the best choice for an outer chainring?
    I guess I wasn't clear. Chainline is not solely determined by the crank. It is a combination of the crank and the bb. If you get a shorter bb with a road crank you will be able to move the ring in even while you keep it on the outside of the spider. What limits how small of a chainline you can get in most cases is clearance with the chainstay.

    If it was me I would put a chainguard on the outside and the ring on the inside. When you go geared you will find that the chain is much more likely to derail and appreciate having something to keep it in place.

  17. #17
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    i was under the impression that each crankset accepts a specific spindle length. i didnt know you could use a shorter spindle with the same crankset. good to know.

    yeah, ive posted a thread on chainguards and a few people said they werent entirely necessary for this set up. ive been riding this setup for a while with 5 sprockets in the rear and a single front with no chainguards. no problems so far. gotta get a new BB and crank though so thought i might as well work on the chainline while im at it.

  18. #18
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    and thanks for the help btw

  19. #19
    Cornucopia of Awesomeness baxtefer's Avatar
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    each crank accepts a specific type of spindle taper (or spline pattern)
    you pick a spindle length to give you an appropriate chainline.

    i've got a few 3/32" rings lying around if you're interested. Only 48 and 50T though.
    and i think 42T is the smallest you can go with a 144BCD. Check out Blackspire too.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutret View Post
    The picture shows pins.
    You're right, weird. I have a 45 tooth version of one with a 130 bcd and there are no pins.

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