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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 08-21-07, 08:57 PM   #1
Chrysiptera
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Lockring torque; how much is enough?

After an annoyingly close call with my lockring I'm realizing that I don't know how tight the thing should really be.. I'm using the Hozan 205 lockring tool, and I'm never quite sure how tight I should make the thing.. Tight tight? super freaking tight? What??
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Old 08-21-07, 09:10 PM   #2
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I went for super freaking tight but I don't know ****.
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Old 08-21-07, 09:13 PM   #3
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I put all my weight into it, rode it for a little, then cranked it down more. never had a problem with it.
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Old 08-22-07, 06:17 AM   #4
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I had to go super freaking tight to keep my cog from slipping.
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Old 08-22-07, 07:00 AM   #5
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It doesn't matter how tight you get the lockring if the cog isn't on super-freaking tight to start with. Mash up a hill to get the cog tight. At the top, hop off and tighten the **** out of the lockring. Done.
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Old 08-22-07, 07:56 AM   #6
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you know what's annoying? its when you cant tighten your lockring without removing the chain.
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Old 08-22-07, 10:35 AM   #7
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight_is_Enough
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Old 08-22-07, 10:54 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane View Post
It doesn't matter how tight you get the lockring if the cog isn't on super-freaking tight to start with. Mash up a hill to get the cog tight. At the top, hop off and tighten the **** out of the lockring. Done.
+1. It is way more important to get the cog Super Freaking Tight first, and mashing up a hill is the way to do that.
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Old 08-22-07, 10:59 AM   #9
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^^^ correct. A lockring is just a safety net.

I run a brake so I don't have to rely on a lockring. In fact, I don't use lockrings on a couple of my wheelsets.
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Old 08-22-07, 11:32 AM   #10
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i prefer to just get it tight with a chainwhip.
the lockring needs to be very tight too. both need to be tight. tighten up both as tight as you can...start with the cog.
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Old 08-22-07, 01:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane View Post
It doesn't matter how tight you get the lockring if the cog isn't on super-freaking tight to start with. Mash up a hill to get the cog tight. At the top, hop off and tighten the **** out of the lockring. Done.

+1.
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Old 08-22-07, 02:12 PM   #12
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I put all my weight into it, rode it for a little, then cranked it down more. never had a problem with it.
Thats how I do it
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Old 08-22-07, 02:46 PM   #13
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how much of a problem does this present when its time to take it off?
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Old 08-22-07, 02:53 PM   #14
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how much of a problem does this present when its time to take it off?
In my experience, none.
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Old 08-22-07, 04:52 PM   #15
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Wait, the op mentioned a "Hozan 205 lockring tool". I just had to google that and it's for a bottom bracket, nothing to do with cogs and lockrings.

I just grease EVERYTHING, and tighten until I can't tighten anymore, or until I'm tired of bashing my knuckles open from slips. Works every time. But more specifically, with a bottom bracket lockring, super tight is fine, super freaking tight isn't needed.

Of course, if it is a rear cog lockring, super freaking tight, definitely.
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Old 08-22-07, 04:55 PM   #16
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That tool is called a Hook Spanner, it is basically the best way to tighten down a lockring. Or adjust BB..ect.

^
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Old 08-22-07, 04:59 PM   #17
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Sorry, I'm spacing. Lockrings == spanners. I kept thinking chainwhips for some reason.
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Old 08-22-07, 05:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strick View Post
Wait, the op mentioned a "Hozan 205 lockring tool". I just had to google that and it's for a bottom bracket, nothing to do with cogs and lockrings.

I just grease EVERYTHING, and tighten until I can't tighten anymore, or until I'm tired of bashing my knuckles open from slips. Works every time. But more specifically, with a bottom bracket lockring, super tight is fine, super freaking tight isn't needed.

Of course, if it is a rear cog lockring, super freaking tight, definitely.
Yah, the Hozan 205 is very well regarded for both BB and track hub lockring applications..

Thanks for all the input guys..
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Old 08-22-07, 05:16 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Chrysiptera View Post
After an annoyingly close call with my lockring I'm realizing that I don't know how tight the thing should really be.. I'm using the Hozan 205 lockring tool, and I'm never quite sure how tight I should make the thing.. Tight tight? super freaking tight? What??
Tighten until something...either the tool, lockring, cassette body, etc.. breaks. Note the Nm force at which the failure occurred. Purchase new *insert broken piece(s) here* and then tighten to just below the noted Nm force.
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Old 08-22-07, 06:22 PM   #20
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Redtires has about the right perspective on this thread. Come on, guys. There's an attitude on this forum that basically says more power or abuse, the better. I still can't get over the guy who said he needed a tougher hub because he trashed a Suzue in 200 miles. Really. This equipment isn't made to be abused like that. If someone does that to a component, no self-respecting store should warranty it. That's akin to my using a sledge hammer on a Nagasawa and insisting that the frame was defective. Puhlease.

You don't have to tear a ligament tightening your cog or your lockring. Even if you are skidding, what's important is to get the lockring snug, let your pedaling set it completely, and simply be sure your lockring is snug against the cog. Many cog and hub combinations only let two or three threads of the lockring engage the hub, and you can simply wrench those threads right off the hub. On other combinations, you can thread the lockring all the way and still not actually make contact with the cog -- you have to insert a bottom bracket spacer ring to get secure contact. It pays to pay attention.

I'd recommend putting some antiseize compound (from any auto parts store) on the hub threads both for the cog and the lockring. Just a tiny smooth coating is enough. Don't stand on the chain whip when you're tightening it -- just use the amount of force you'd get if you hold the wheel against your waist with one hand and pull towards you with the whip with the other. Then use about the same force or less on the lockring.

And stay away from my bike. These recommendations would snap most of the components on my track bike. Please.
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Old 08-22-07, 06:27 PM   #21
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Somewhere inside that shower of sparks and glare is a hub/cog/lockring.
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