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  1. #1
    Senior Member Chrysiptera's Avatar
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    Lockring torque; how much is enough?

    After an annoyingly close call with my lockring I'm realizing that I don't know how tight the thing should really be.. I'm using the Hozan 205 lockring tool, and I'm never quite sure how tight I should make the thing.. Tight tight? super freaking tight? What??
    ... I'm the center of attention in the walls inside my head ...

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  2. #2
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    I went for super freaking tight but I don't know ****.

  3. #3
    sharkfin. babychris's Avatar
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    I put all my weight into it, rode it for a little, then cranked it down more. never had a problem with it.

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    I play in the street. nobrainer440's Avatar
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    I had to go super freaking tight to keep my cog from slipping.

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    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    It doesn't matter how tight you get the lockring if the cog isn't on super-freaking tight to start with. Mash up a hill to get the cog tight. At the top, hop off and tighten the **** out of the lockring. Done.
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    :jarckass: deathhare's Avatar
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    you know what's annoying? its when you cant tighten your lockring without removing the chain.

  7. #7
    I'm band already? lubes17319's Avatar
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    Who cares what your bike weighs, just ride it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aeroplane View Post
    It doesn't matter how tight you get the lockring if the cog isn't on super-freaking tight to start with. Mash up a hill to get the cog tight. At the top, hop off and tighten the **** out of the lockring. Done.
    +1. It is way more important to get the cog Super Freaking Tight first, and mashing up a hill is the way to do that.

  9. #9
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    ^^^ correct. A lockring is just a safety net.

    I run a brake so I don't have to rely on a lockring. In fact, I don't use lockrings on a couple of my wheelsets.

  10. #10
    park ranger
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    i prefer to just get it tight with a chainwhip.
    the lockring needs to be very tight too. both need to be tight. tighten up both as tight as you can...start with the cog.
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  11. #11
    I play in the street. nobrainer440's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aeroplane View Post
    It doesn't matter how tight you get the lockring if the cog isn't on super-freaking tight to start with. Mash up a hill to get the cog tight. At the top, hop off and tighten the **** out of the lockring. Done.

    +1.

  12. #12
    Spelling Snob Hobartlemagne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by babychris View Post
    I put all my weight into it, rode it for a little, then cranked it down more. never had a problem with it.
    Thats how I do it

    The first rule of flats is You don't talk about flats!

  13. #13
    Senior Member marcusprice's Avatar
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    how much of a problem does this present when its time to take it off?

  14. #14
    :jarckass: deathhare's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcusprice View Post
    how much of a problem does this present when its time to take it off?
    In my experience, none.

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    Wait, the op mentioned a "Hozan 205 lockring tool". I just had to google that and it's for a bottom bracket, nothing to do with cogs and lockrings.

    I just grease EVERYTHING, and tighten until I can't tighten anymore, or until I'm tired of bashing my knuckles open from slips. Works every time. But more specifically, with a bottom bracket lockring, super tight is fine, super freaking tight isn't needed.

    Of course, if it is a rear cog lockring, super freaking tight, definitely.

  16. #16
    Clyde Racer. .Cole's Avatar
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    That tool is called a Hook Spanner, it is basically the best way to tighten down a lockring. Or adjust BB..ect.

    ^
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  17. #17
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    Sorry, I'm spacing. Lockrings == spanners. I kept thinking chainwhips for some reason.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Chrysiptera's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strick View Post
    Wait, the op mentioned a "Hozan 205 lockring tool". I just had to google that and it's for a bottom bracket, nothing to do with cogs and lockrings.

    I just grease EVERYTHING, and tighten until I can't tighten anymore, or until I'm tired of bashing my knuckles open from slips. Works every time. But more specifically, with a bottom bracket lockring, super tight is fine, super freaking tight isn't needed.

    Of course, if it is a rear cog lockring, super freaking tight, definitely.
    Yah, the Hozan 205 is very well regarded for both BB and track hub lockring applications..

    Thanks for all the input guys..
    ... I'm the center of attention in the walls inside my head ...

    1984 Fuji Berkeley: Fixed conversion build thread
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  19. #19
    Extra Medium Member redtires's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrysiptera View Post
    After an annoyingly close call with my lockring I'm realizing that I don't know how tight the thing should really be.. I'm using the Hozan 205 lockring tool, and I'm never quite sure how tight I should make the thing.. Tight tight? super freaking tight? What??
    Tighten until something...either the tool, lockring, cassette body, etc.. breaks. Note the Nm force at which the failure occurred. Purchase new *insert broken piece(s) here* and then tighten to just below the noted Nm force.

  20. #20
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    Redtires has about the right perspective on this thread. Come on, guys. There's an attitude on this forum that basically says more power or abuse, the better. I still can't get over the guy who said he needed a tougher hub because he trashed a Suzue in 200 miles. Really. This equipment isn't made to be abused like that. If someone does that to a component, no self-respecting store should warranty it. That's akin to my using a sledge hammer on a Nagasawa and insisting that the frame was defective. Puhlease.

    You don't have to tear a ligament tightening your cog or your lockring. Even if you are skidding, what's important is to get the lockring snug, let your pedaling set it completely, and simply be sure your lockring is snug against the cog. Many cog and hub combinations only let two or three threads of the lockring engage the hub, and you can simply wrench those threads right off the hub. On other combinations, you can thread the lockring all the way and still not actually make contact with the cog -- you have to insert a bottom bracket spacer ring to get secure contact. It pays to pay attention.

    I'd recommend putting some antiseize compound (from any auto parts store) on the hub threads both for the cog and the lockring. Just a tiny smooth coating is enough. Don't stand on the chain whip when you're tightening it -- just use the amount of force you'd get if you hold the wheel against your waist with one hand and pull towards you with the whip with the other. Then use about the same force or less on the lockring.

    And stay away from my bike. These recommendations would snap most of the components on my track bike. Please.

  21. #21
    2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM slvoid's Avatar
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    Somewhere inside that shower of sparks and glare is a hub/cog/lockring.

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