Removing the front derailleur from a bike...
12-28-07, 02:41 PM
#1
partly metal, partly real
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Philadelphia.
Posts: 3,597
Bikes: Hummer H2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Removing the front derailleur from a bike...
I recently aquired an old fuji something or other with downtube shifters. It's crap, so i'm thinking of setting it up as a dedicated bike for my trainer. My gf rides the same size bike as i do (which happens to be the size of the fuji), so it'll work out nicely.
Since we both ride fg primarily (with 165mm cranks), i was thinking of replacing the cranks on the fuji. Then i realized that instead of going crazy looking for 165mm road cranks only to settle for 170 (or, more likely, 172.5), i could simply remove the front derailleur/chanrings/crank/bb that're in place and replace them with an old 165 sugino ___ (i forget), ___ bottom bracket i have laying around, some random chainring and keep the rear derailleur/cassette for switching to different intensities during intervals.
Is this feasible? Is there anything i have to keep in mind when approaching something like this? I can't think of any reasons why this won't work, but then again i'm not a mechanic and am still a bit lost when it comes to anything other than basic derailleur adjustments.
thx.
Since we both ride fg primarily (with 165mm cranks), i was thinking of replacing the cranks on the fuji. Then i realized that instead of going crazy looking for 165mm road cranks only to settle for 170 (or, more likely, 172.5), i could simply remove the front derailleur/chanrings/crank/bb that're in place and replace them with an old 165 sugino ___ (i forget), ___ bottom bracket i have laying around, some random chainring and keep the rear derailleur/cassette for switching to different intensities during intervals.
Is this feasible? Is there anything i have to keep in mind when approaching something like this? I can't think of any reasons why this won't work, but then again i'm not a mechanic and am still a bit lost when it comes to anything other than basic derailleur adjustments.
thx.
12-28-07, 02:54 PM
#2
...
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Blacksburg VA
Posts: 114
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This will work fine. I really like set ups with only a rear derailleur as they make for great commuters and still give a wide range of gears with about 1/2 the trouble of a dual derailleur set-up. Sounds like a great idea-- good luck!
A word about alignment: Aim to have your front chainring in line with your center rear sprocket as this will help prevent chain throw at the highest and lowest gears. Make sure to double check chain length with the new crankset installed (not to much tension in lower gears and only a marginal amount of slack in higher gears).
A word about alignment: Aim to have your front chainring in line with your center rear sprocket as this will help prevent chain throw at the highest and lowest gears. Make sure to double check chain length with the new crankset installed (not to much tension in lower gears and only a marginal amount of slack in higher gears).
12-28-07, 05:04 PM
#4
¡Senor Member!
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Philly
Posts: 1,710
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
yeah, i second the 1x(x) style of shiftables as well.
As well as centering the chainring with the middle cog. Also, now would be a goood time to learn how to set the limit screws on your RD!
As well as centering the chainring with the middle cog. Also, now would be a goood time to learn how to set the limit screws on your RD!
12-28-07, 07:58 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,155
Bikes: Zeus (Razesa) tarck, Giant TCR road, Eddy Merckx road, Fuji Touring Series IV for everything else
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A lot of people use up to a 1x10 setup for cross. durable, less likely to drop the chain. one shifter is twice as good as gaving two.
12-28-07, 09:44 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,363
Bikes: DW
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
no problems there at all. did the same thing with a bridgestone mb3 i set up as a commuter. removed the inner ring (replaced the chainring bolts to do so) and the front der and had a nice friction shift 5-speed set-up. dropped the chain once in a blue moon and considered a dh-tyype tensioner to deal with that, but it was never enough of an issue to follow thorugh
