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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 01-31-08, 12:15 PM   #1
save_alkaline
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brake question for my schwinn

i've just about got my schwinn all setup and ready to ride. i just need to figure out my front brake. it's an 80 super le tour and the nashbar that i had on my kilo is completely different than that of the schwinn. not only do the pads not reach the wheel but the bolt appears to need more of traditional bolt and nut instead of the kind that goes into the mounting hole. i thought about getting the old school schwinn brakes that would have been originally mounted but they're that center pull deal and i would rather have the dual pivot. where can i find something that will work?
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Old 01-31-08, 12:17 PM   #2
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a tektro long reach should work.
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Old 01-31-08, 12:42 PM   #3
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Shimano makes a long reach also. They probably have them at Campus Cyclery.
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Old 01-31-08, 02:11 PM   #4
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You'll still have the bolt issue though. You'll have to drill out the fork a bit so that the recessed nut thing reaches the bolt. Make sure not to drill it so big that the thing doesn't pass all the way through.
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Old 01-31-08, 02:13 PM   #5
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Drilling for a recessed nut is easy and worthwhile - almost all new brakes use a recessed nut.
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Old 01-31-08, 02:15 PM   #6
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thanks for all the info guys. i was really wondering about the nut. is drilling the only way then? is there a write up or anything on it so i don't screw it up. haha.
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Old 01-31-08, 02:24 PM   #7
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thanks for all the info guys. i was really wondering about the nut. is drilling the only way then? is there a write up or anything on it so i don't screw it up. haha.
Sheldon Brown comes through once again:
See "Mounting recessed calipers on older frames". I did this on my old road bike and it was quite easy -- as Sheldon says on that webpage, drilling to expand an existing hole is super-easy.
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Old 01-31-08, 02:28 PM   #8
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i figured he would have it but you just saved me a bunch of time finding it. thanks!
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Old 01-31-08, 02:42 PM   #9
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I have a super long reach cheapo brake caliper I'll mail you if you have a shorter reach one. Mine is a little too long reach. Pm me if you can use it, its only a matter of time before I get a new one.
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Old 01-31-08, 08:30 PM   #10
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The recessed bolt through the crown fork idea is so simple and elegant that I, with my clunky brain, would have never thought of it. My Colnago now has brakes!
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Old 01-31-08, 08:31 PM   #11
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The recessed bolt through the crown fork idea is so simple and elegant that I, with my clunky brain, would have never thought of it. My Colnago now has brakes!
Excellent.
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Old 02-01-08, 08:12 AM   #12
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+1 on the Tektro long-reach. I'm using one on my '77 Super Le Tour 12.2 and it works nicely. Can't remember the part number right now, but I'll look it up and post it.
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Old 02-01-08, 11:00 AM   #13
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I have a super long reach cheapo brake caliper I'll mail you if you have a shorter reach one. Mine is a little too long reach. Pm me if you can use it, its only a matter of time before I get a new one.
thanks for the offer but i'm going to keep it for my kilo since i can't use it on the schwinn.

and thanks again for all the help guys! the drilling idea is, in fact, incredibly simple! looks like i'll be riding the schwinn in no time.
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Old 02-01-08, 11:30 AM   #14
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Sheldon Brown comes through once again:
See "Mounting recessed calipers on older frames". I did this on my old road bike and it was quite easy -- as Sheldon says on that webpage, drilling to expand an existing hole is super-easy.
use plenty of "CUTTING FLUID" ( at hardware store) when you drill, clear the shards often, and try VERY hard to keep the drill square to the hole (jig or use a drill press)

OBVIOUSLY you want a BRAND NEW SHARP CARBIDE (or TiN coated) BIT made for cutting metal (NOT the 10 year old bit that came with your ryobi)

use a countersink bit on slow speed after to slightly chamfer the edges of the hole for professionalism.
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Old 02-01-08, 11:48 AM   #15
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use plenty of "CUTTING FLUID" ( at hardware store) when you drill, clear the shards often, and try VERY hard to keep the drill square to the hole (jig or use a drill press)

OBVIOUSLY you want a BRAND NEW SHARP CARBIDE (or TiN coated) BIT made for cutting metal (NOT the 10 year old bit that came with your ryobi)

use a countersink bit on slow speed after to slightly chamfer the edges of the hole for professionalism.
+1

I just used a brand new but cheap bit, and now I regret it (chipped it on the last mm or so of drilling). I ran the drill at a high speed and let it do the cutting, rather than pushing the bit into the metal.
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