Why the small brake levers?
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Why the small brake levers?
Why is it so common to see small brake levers on FG conversions, rather than using the original lever with the hood in the original location (as opposed to moving it towards the middle near the stem)? I'm specifically talking about bikes with road bars - on other types, I understand. Please forgive my ignorance!
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Minimalism!
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*****s in my Happy Meal.
Obvious mix-up at the factory?
Obvious mix-up at the factory?
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I have used small levers in the past because it is an emergency type thing. I only use em if I absolutely need to so why have more lever than you need?
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Why is it so common to see small brake levers on FG conversions, rather than using the original lever with the hood in the original location (as opposed to moving it towards the middle near the stem)? I'm specifically talking about bikes with road bars - on other types, I understand. Please forgive my ignorance!
and the small lever looks a lot sleeker then my other levers
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Why is it so common to see small brake levers on FG conversions, rather than using the original lever with the hood in the original location (as opposed to moving it towards the middle near the stem)? I'm specifically talking about bikes with road bars - on other types, I understand. Please forgive my ignorance!
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um, because an aero lever right by the stem would not only look ********, but it would also be really big and clunky there.
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Road levers need to be on a curve that moves away otherwise there is not enough room to fully engage your brake before squeezing the lever all the way to the bar.
#15
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I use a modified road lever mounted near the stem. I had to cut the base at an angle with a hacksaw and shape it so that the lever has more reach than normal. I could have gone with one of the small cross style levers but that would have been extra $ and I happen to like the curvy shape of the old road lever. Also, I have a front light mounted on the handlebar and liked the symmetry of having something on either side of the stem and nothing at the ends of the horns.
Also, the longer length of the road lever allows me to apply the brake either from the tops of the bar or with my pinky when I'm on the horns of my chop&flops. I did this because I spend <5% of the time riding on the tops of the bars.
Also, the longer length of the road lever allows me to apply the brake either from the tops of the bar or with my pinky when I'm on the horns of my chop&flops. I did this because I spend <5% of the time riding on the tops of the bars.
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I use a modified road lever mounted near the stem. I had to cut the base at an angle with a hacksaw and shape it so that the lever has more reach than normal. I could have gone with one of the small cross style levers but that would have been extra $ and I happen to like the curvy shape of the old road lever. Also, I have a front light mounted on the handlebar and liked the symmetry of having something on either side of the stem and nothing at the ends of the horns.
Also, the longer length of the road lever allows me to apply the brake either from the tops of the bar or with my pinky when I'm on the horns of my chop&flops. I did this because I spend <5% of the time riding on the tops of the bars.
Also, the longer length of the road lever allows me to apply the brake either from the tops of the bar or with my pinky when I'm on the horns of my chop&flops. I did this because I spend <5% of the time riding on the tops of the bars.
it looks like you ride with your bars so strangely tilted up because your stem is too long.
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because when i ride most of the time i ride on the top part of my drops... and when i am on my drops i tend to be 1 of like 3 places... mostly open sprints. I only really use my brake for when riding in traffic (stopping fast is vital when people open doors).
and the small lever looks a lot sleeker then my other levers
and the small lever looks a lot sleeker then my other levers
#21
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I doubt that my 130mm stem is too long, based on my size, my bikes size, and my body/arm position while riding. I wont post pictures, but the position I adopt is similar to that of a rider in the drops and as you can see in the picture attached above, the relative angle of the bullhorns is similar to that of the drops on a standard road bar.
I'm going to be trying out a nitto pursuit bar soon to try and get a more aero position. It'll stretch me out into more of a triathlon position so I'll let you know if the cockpit is too long.
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I ride with my bars so strangely tilted up because I've found that this is the most comfortable position for my wrists over long distances. I've never understood how having flater bars, which leads to your wrist being cocked downward at a strange angle, is considered comfortable unless the bullhorns are only used for brief out of the seat efforts.
I doubt that my 130mm stem is too long, based on my size, my bikes size, and my body/arm position while riding. I wont post pictures, but the position I adopt is similar to that of a rider in the drops and as you can see in the picture attached above, the relative angle of the bullhorns is similar to that of the drops on a standard road bar.
I'm going to be trying out a nitto pursuit bar soon to try and get a more aero position. It'll stretch me out into more of a triathlon position so I'll let you know if the cockpit is too long.
I doubt that my 130mm stem is too long, based on my size, my bikes size, and my body/arm position while riding. I wont post pictures, but the position I adopt is similar to that of a rider in the drops and as you can see in the picture attached above, the relative angle of the bullhorns is similar to that of the drops on a standard road bar.
I'm going to be trying out a nitto pursuit bar soon to try and get a more aero position. It'll stretch me out into more of a triathlon position so I'll let you know if the cockpit is too long.
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Some will even suggest for MTB technique to only use one finger for maximum grip on the bars. Using only one finger puts the control in controlled braking
#25
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the reason that you think that riding bullhorns makes your wrists "cocked downward at a strange angle" is because your stem is too long. the angle that my bullhorns are at do not make my wrists bend into an uncomfortable position. actually, my hand is almost perfectly aligned with my arm.
Care to post a picture of your position on the bike?