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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 02-22-08, 11:16 AM   #1
lordgold
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The future of rattlecanning?

http://gizmodo.com/359531/hammerite-...-sides-at-once


http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...ter_paint.html

I've been looking on the actual website, and can't find just what types of metal this would work with. It looks like everything they use it on is iron. But hey, I can be hopeful.

Edit: Works on most ferrous metals, and can be applied to aluminum as well with the application of a special primer.
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Old 02-22-08, 11:21 AM   #2
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Now that looks cool.
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Old 02-22-08, 11:29 AM   #3
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according to the site it works on any ferrous metal, meaning just about anything a magnet will stick to. In other words steel=yes, Aluminum or stainless steel probably no.
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Old 02-22-08, 11:31 AM   #4
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it's a consumer form of powdercoat
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Old 02-22-08, 11:34 AM   #5
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it's a consumer form of powdercoat
do you have to bake it still?
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Old 02-22-08, 11:37 AM   #6
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do you have to bake it still?
nope, that's what makes this that much easier. charges the metal to attract, just like powdercoat, but no baking afterwards.
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Old 02-22-08, 11:37 AM   #7
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nope, that's what makes this that much easier. charges the metal to attract, just like powdercoat, but no baking afterwards.
oooOOOOOOooooo!
tasty.
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Old 02-22-08, 11:38 AM   #8
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nope, that's what makes this that much easier. charges the metal to attract, just like powdercoat, but no baking afterwards.
When do you put the frosting on?

I'm definitely curious about this.
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Old 02-22-08, 11:40 AM   #9
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looks cool, but to me the really ****ty part of painting is dealing with paint stripper.

plus it's $80 for the gun, and at least $30 for paint. i'd probably still either settle for engine enamel or have it powdercoated and let someone else worry about it.

might be useful for someone who paints a lot of metal **** though.
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Old 02-22-08, 02:21 PM   #10
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Will the wonders of modern science ever cease?
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Old 02-22-08, 08:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordgold View Post
http://gizmodo.com/359531/hammerite-...-sides-at-once


http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...ter_paint.html

I've been looking on the actual website, and can't find just what types of metal this would work with. It looks like everything they use it on is iron. But hey, I can be hopeful.

Edit: Works on most ferrous metals, and can be applied to aluminum as well with the application of a special primer.
that electrostatic gun is pretty cool, and I have seen hammerite paints before, good stuff for lawn furniture and farm equipment, but I'm not sure I'd paint a marinoni with it.

for years I tried to find a way to paint without a compressor, and after a couple of years just gave up and went and got compressors and iwata $500 paint guns, and spent so much money I had to start a motorcycle restoration buisness. (which I am now retired from), but I learned some things along the way:

if you MUST use a rattlecan, there are some things to keep in mind, and some new technologies you should be aware of.

first off, they put all kinds of paint in spray cans, so why not spend an extra few dollars and get GOOD spray paint, eh? you wont find ANY "good" spray paints at hardware stores, or discount auto supply stores (auto zone, kragen etc,..) or at wal-mart or target.

go to an autobody supply house (called "color shops") they are listed in the yellow pages. GOOD spray paint can be found at these locations, and it'll be a shocking $7 to $20 a can for the good stuff.
a) get SEALER: this will be an acid etch primer, with U-POL's primer being the easiest to use (no sanding needed before topcoating)
b)get 2 part GLAZING PUTTY to fill tiny pits, or nicks, or grinder marks (metalglaze by evercoat works the best)
c)get HIGH BUILD PRIMER, thats to fill sanding scratches from grinding, or sanding filler.
d) get the color coat*: you can use a gloss color coat, but for best durability topcoat it with one of the clearcoats listed below.

(*most color shops can put automotive basecoats in spray cans now, and because urethane basecoats aren't catalyzed, they work beautifully in a spray can.)

when it comes to clearcoats you have TWO quality choices, one is reasonable, the other is just ridiculous in price, but you get some of the best clearcoat on the planet in a special one use mixable spray can.

1) U-POL MOISTURE ACTIVATED SPRAY CLEAR:
http://www.levineautoparts.com/upclear1uvre.html

the stuff is simply amazing for a rattlecan clearcoat, it'll take overnight to cure enough to be usable, and after 2 weeks you can sand and buff it like a catalyzed urethane clear! very tough and durable.
CAUTION: both of these clearcoats use some pretty heavy duty solvents in their makeup, and unless you are topcoating a standard basecoat, you should shoot a test panel to test for compatability with whatever basecoat you might be using.


2) R&M 2 COMPONENT URETHANE CLEARCOAT
http://www.ketone.com/rm_aeromax_urethane_clearcoat.php

this is a genuine 2 part urethane clearcoat in a special can that once activated will harden in a couple of hours, and can be sanded and polished the next day.
at $36 a can it's NOT cheap, but if you compare it to renting a compressor, paint gun and all the crap that goes with it. (or BUYING it all), then it's actually a very reasonably priced clearcoat, and easy as falling off the sofa on sunday afternoon to use. GREAT PRODUCT!

things to remember:

most of the "nibs" (crap that lands in the paint and creates a tiny bump) come from YOU, not the surrounding area, as most people believe, so wear a PAINT SUIT, it's not so much to protect you from the paint (which it does), but it contains all your hair, skin cells, dandruff, sanding dust, yada yada, and keeps it OFF the paint job

you can paint outside in the driveway, with the ground wetted down, and then move the parts inside a closed up room (garage, tool shed, basement etc,..) and leave undisturbed for 12 hours. do it at mid morning, or noon when the bugs are fewest, and before afternoon winds stir up dust.
this works GREAT on a hot day where the pieces sit in a hot garage for 12 hours, when you pull that out, it's always a nice suprise to see how good they look! try it, you'll see!

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE painting has a HYOOOGE learning curve, and it always amazes me that people with no idea of how to paint something NEVER practice on a steel plate, or the garage fridge, or a toolbox, they ALWAYS seem to try and "learn" on the thing they are trying to paint, like their vintage colnago, or RB-1 or something.

please don't do that, because I haven't written a "how to fix yer fuxored painting attempt" yet, and would rather not have to

you can use cheap paints and clearcoats to practice with, because all the better quality stuff is easier to use, covers better, builds thicker etc,..., so once you "learn" on the cheapo, when switching to the better paint to shoot your bike, you shouldn't have any trouble

shoot em if ya got em

Last edited by j0e_bik3; 04-14-08 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 02-22-08, 08:22 PM   #12
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wow a home electro coat kit, thats pretty sweet
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Old 02-23-08, 12:45 AM   #13
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joe, great post. Please put that in a wisdom area. I will def want to reference this when I decide to redo my my mediocre rattle can job my Peugeot someday.
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Old 02-23-08, 11:19 AM   #14
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yeah joe that was awesome. thank you very much!
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Old 02-23-08, 11:30 AM   #15
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yeah joe that was awesome. thank you very much!
plus 2. great thread/post.
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Old 02-23-08, 11:38 AM   #16
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Yawn. That solves 1 of the 2 annoying steps needed in repainting a bike. Now let's see something that'll let me bead blast for cheap to complete the package.
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Old 02-23-08, 11:53 AM   #17
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that electrostatic gun is pretty cool...
+1
*snip* *save as...*

I'll add it to all my Dr.Deltron notes

Last edited by Peedtm; 02-23-08 at 11:53 AM. Reason: too long
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