rshuff

I'm converting a 1986 (I think) Mt. Fuji mountain bike to a single-speed for fun and commuting. I kept the biopace 38t chainring (and the outside chainring until I get shorter bolts) - and installed a performance conversion kit with a 20t cog on my freewheel - with the chain tensioner thing. It was a blast taking off the deraillers, shifters, extra chainring and cogs. I'll post a photo later because I think it already looks good - especially that black with speckled paint-job.

It is also already fun to ride, but I wonder about the chain and would like different handlebars. Lumping these two into one thread for expediency (and to keep it lively).

1. What is the best single-speed chain? I don't know if the chain I have was original, but I expect the biopace in 1986 was already ramped for a multi-speed chain. I think I want to keep the biopace until it breaks because it's cool and it doesn't bother me when spinning, plus it's cool. Would that be a problem with a single speed chain? I wouldn't mind getting a half-link to shorten the chain (not a half-link chain), and who knows maybe get lucky and eliminate the tensioner (singulator thingy).

2. I was set on getting some bullhorn handlebars then I saw the cane creek ergo bar-ends. Actually I first saw some ergo grip/end combo's on GT bikes at performance, and they seem to be feel good, almost like the brake hoods I rest on mostly on my road bike. The cane creek version was the only thing similar on the parts rack. I also wanted something narrower than the stock mountain bar, with the extra positions. Anyone like/dislike the cane-creek ergo II? - or should I stick with that idea about bullhorns (flip and chop some road bars?). One more question about handlebar size - when I took some extra straight bar-ends and moved them in to mimic my road bar size - it seemed too narrow. Is the riding position that different on a mountain bike that road bike bars would feel odd and narrow?

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Peedtm

Bars like seats are personal.

You wont get rid of your tensioner until you rid yourself of the Biospace ring. It constantly changes the length of chain required (as it rotates.)

Buy a cheap chain, clean it, replace often. (Often varies - take it to your LBS and have 'em measure it for you, or buy the tool.)

EivlEvo

Only real difference between a ss/fg chain and a multi speed chain is the width. 1/8" vs. 3/32".

If you're using "geared" parts go with a 3/32" chain.
If you're using single speed parts go with an 1/8" chain.

Most people on here that have homebuilts are mixing and matching. I have a 3/32 crankset and an 1/8" chain and 1/8" rear cog.

It works.

pyze-guy

If you have a v-brake setup it is almost impossible to get the lever on road bars. The only time I have been able to was with some cheap '70s era bars I found. Other then that never had any luck. If you have canti brakes then there are more options for bar choices as you can run inline levers. One option if you have v-brakes, and want to use road bars are Paul inline levers. The cane creek bar ends are great IMO. As for the chain just keep the one you are using unless it is worn out, or slipping on the cog. For my s/s and fixed mtb's I buy cheap 7 speed 3/32kmc chains and after 4-5 months get a new one.

Some people will disagree with me, but I would suggest getting a nonramped chainring for s/s. I have had the chain thrown before using one even with an almost perfect chainline.

sp00ki

read the current thread on biopace and fixed gear here. the consensus is that you will not throw your chain. on a singlespeed freewheel, you won't even "feel" it, as you're not using back force to stop.

as for bullhorns vs bar ends, i will say that bullhorns reach out farther, so you have more of a stretched out position. i enjoy this position on longer rides and during sprints. i don't see barends doing this; they're just for climbing. that said, give it lots of thought before you decide one way or the other. and if you get stuck, go to chucks bikes and buy a bullhorn for under twenty bucks.

enjoy.