Convince me not to buy the sugino messenger crankset...
#26
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My yellow cloth tape shellac'ed over doesn't match my Honey Brooks, but, I don't think it's a bad thing. It looks just fine to me.
#28
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#29
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but it has a 130mm BCD, which is not really the standard 144mm BCD.
130BCD is standard for roadcranks(aside from 110 compacts) and the sugino rd is a roaddouble that is being sold with only 1 chainring(hence the chainline issue). 144 is trackstandard.the nice thing about 130 is that it is easier and cheaper to find chainrings to play with different gearoptions.The downside is that the rings are mostly 3/32(the sugino messenger is 1/8).It is however no problem to run a 1/8 cog and chain with a 3/32 chainring.
130BCD is standard for roadcranks(aside from 110 compacts) and the sugino rd is a roaddouble that is being sold with only 1 chainring(hence the chainline issue). 144 is trackstandard.the nice thing about 130 is that it is easier and cheaper to find chainrings to play with different gearoptions.The downside is that the rings are mostly 3/32(the sugino messenger is 1/8).It is however no problem to run a 1/8 cog and chain with a 3/32 chainring.
#30
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I have the RD's with the messenger rings and havent had any trouble with chainline with the 103 bb. I'm happy with mine, though I dont think I would drop the change on a annod set. I guess its worth doing if you really like colors.
#31
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i have a set. and i'm not gonna lie, i bought them mainly because they're pink. yeah, i like colors.
so far i'm happy with them. they look good and while i haven't had any issues with durability, i have only had the bike built up for about 3 weeks. on the other hand i am a pretty big dude and i have a track record of breaking parts so we'll see how that goes.
my only complaint is that it appears that the hole for the crankarm spindle isnt milled exactly center so no amount of fiddling with the chainring will fix the tight spot i have.
not to threadjack but i am curious to know how many people who complain about the noise created by the 45mm chainline are running these cranks. i run my chainring on the outside of the spider with a 103mm FSA bottom bracket (with an EAI gold medal/izumi supertoughness) and it is silent.
i was planning to switch the crankset out to something that would give me a 42mm chainline once i finished building it up, but since it isn't noisy and i haven't had any real issues so far i am probably going to run them until they're dead or until i get tired of the pink.
i say get em.
so far i'm happy with them. they look good and while i haven't had any issues with durability, i have only had the bike built up for about 3 weeks. on the other hand i am a pretty big dude and i have a track record of breaking parts so we'll see how that goes.
my only complaint is that it appears that the hole for the crankarm spindle isnt milled exactly center so no amount of fiddling with the chainring will fix the tight spot i have.
not to threadjack but i am curious to know how many people who complain about the noise created by the 45mm chainline are running these cranks. i run my chainring on the outside of the spider with a 103mm FSA bottom bracket (with an EAI gold medal/izumi supertoughness) and it is silent.
i was planning to switch the crankset out to something that would give me a 42mm chainline once i finished building it up, but since it isn't noisy and i haven't had any real issues so far i am probably going to run them until they're dead or until i get tired of the pink.
i say get em.
#32
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#33
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#34
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Here's the reason for you NOT to buy it, from HubJub:
"the crank's 165mm spec was achieved by cutting the pedal threads 5mm out of place on a 170mm blank."
So basically they are cheating you by claiming the crank arms are 165mm, if that matters to you.
"the crank's 165mm spec was achieved by cutting the pedal threads 5mm out of place on a 170mm blank."
So basically they are cheating you by claiming the crank arms are 165mm, if that matters to you.
#35
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Here's the reason for you NOT to buy it, from HubJub:
"the crank's 165mm spec was achieved by cutting the pedal threads 5mm out of place on a 170mm blank."
So basically they are cheating you by claiming the crank arms are 165mm, if that matters to you.
"the crank's 165mm spec was achieved by cutting the pedal threads 5mm out of place on a 170mm blank."
So basically they are cheating you by claiming the crank arms are 165mm, if that matters to you.
Crank arm length is measured in millimeters from the center of the crank bolt to the center of the pedal spindle (where the pedal attaches to the crank arm). The most common sizes for crank arms are 165mm, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm and 180mm
#36
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PBK had sugino75's + chainring for only $20 more than the RD crankset not too long ago.....$149 seems like a lot of money for a low end road double, thats just me though.
#37
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Here's the reason for you NOT to buy it, from HubJub:
"the crank's 165mm spec was achieved by cutting the pedal threads 5mm out of place on a 170mm blank."
So basically they are cheating you by claiming the crank arms are 165mm, if that matters to you.
"the crank's 165mm spec was achieved by cutting the pedal threads 5mm out of place on a 170mm blank."
So basically they are cheating you by claiming the crank arms are 165mm, if that matters to you.
#38
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just wanna add, i rode my fixie today.... with RD, inside chainring, and wooooooh its smooooooth! no lie
and well i dont have any problem with inside chainring but idk about you... well good luck with whatever your choice is
and well i dont have any problem with inside chainring but idk about you... well good luck with whatever your choice is
#39
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I just tried the chainring of my RD's on the inside of the spider and not only does it barely rub the chainstay (soma rush) but according to my measurement it gives roughly a 40mm chainline. What BB are these people running who end up perfect with the ring on the inside? I am a little peeved about this considering I asked the guy at my LBS about this problem before buying and he assured me that the included BB would give good chainline W/ my rear wheel setup (formula hub, EAI cog)
#40
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One thing that i found was that I couldn't find the exact same colour for a matching set of rims. i'M still looking. anyone have any suggestions?
#41
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#42
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Any recommendations on track cranksets in a similar price range? Don't really want to make a new thread since I was considering the RDs as well.
#44
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Started with the 110 BCD crank that came stock.
Got a Messenger crank and ran the CR on the inside. Very smooth.
Got a smokin deal on a Dura Ace crank, BB and CR. Is it better or smoother? I can't tell.
Does it look grotesquely sick? You bet it does.
Got a Messenger crank and ran the CR on the inside. Very smooth.
Got a smokin deal on a Dura Ace crank, BB and CR. Is it better or smoother? I can't tell.
Does it look grotesquely sick? You bet it does.
#46
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Also I can't be happier with my Suntour Superbe Pro cranks, which I got for $150, except that finding the right bottom bracket was a hassle. (A Campy Veloce 111mm one works if you don't want to buy the matching one.)
#47
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Been running the RD 103 BB combo on 3 different bikes now, your chainline "Issues" are nothing short of an improperly lubricated chain or improper tension. Sugino quality? I'm no lightweight and I have sprinted on some high gearing and I have yet to cause any damage to any drivetrain components. Most of the problems listed with the components in question are gonna be because of user error on installation or maintenance and very few product quality issues.
#48
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Is the noise on the messengers as noticeable as people seem to say?
Also, they are 44mm chainline, correct? Would the Paul HF 44mm hubs be decent match?
Also, they are 44mm chainline, correct? Would the Paul HF 44mm hubs be decent match?
#49
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Personally, I think the Messenger chainring looks a little silly, like a toy if you will. I haven't noticed any issues with durability, though.
#50
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i have been riding sugino rds and just recently put on a messenger ring...it lines up fine and it's pretty silent as long as keep the chain clean...this is with a surly hub and cog
i have always thought my chainline to be right on...is there something i should be checking?
i have always thought my chainline to be right on...is there something i should be checking?