Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 39
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Any new 110mm options? (Also, spacing down other hubs.)

    I read suggestions of this and that manufacturer planning on doing a 110mm hub, or something can be spaced down to 110mm, so I want to know if my options are as limited as they seem now. Basically, I'm too cheap for the standard options.

    I'm also interested in hubs (like Phil's) that can space down to 110mm, or within a few mm. I would coldset for a couple mm, but I'm kind of illogically afraid of doing a full cm on a vintage frame. It's fillet brazed too; does that change anything for better or worse?

    Budget is key and Novatec is the only thing I've found that doesn't break into Suzue, Dura-Ace or Phil's territory. How are the Novatec's, anyway?
    Last edited by bexley; 03-16-08 at 06:04 PM.

  2. #2
    Cornucopia of Awesomeness baxtefer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    not where i used to be
    Posts
    4,847
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    just spread the frame.
    {o,o**
    |)__)
    -"-"-

    O RLY?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yea, this thread is basically my last ditch effort to find a reason not to.

  4. #4
    Worst mechanic ever Iser@n's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    84
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You could go for the iso-cog option, space-up a xt-hub to 110. If you polish the hub (doin it right now) it looks classic at first glance. It's also cheap and durable. But it has to be your thing. Check londonfixiebike.com to see what is mean!

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That's what I'm talkin about. I like this solution for the ease of changing cogs, too--but do the cogs seem good?

    Shimano front disc hubs are cheeaap in price. There's got to be a serious downside, no? It's kind of unclear w/regards to 110mm spacing, but I get the drift that the wheel will probably need to be dished if I want 42mm chainline. Hrm.

    Did you get a quote from them on the pre-polished one? My last time stripping and polishing anodized aluminum wasn't fun.
    Last edited by bexley; 03-16-08 at 06:51 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member nateintokyo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    My Bikes
    SE Quadrangle, '82 Venus NJS, '03 Bianchi Pista, '86 P'sonic Mt Cat, Fat City Yo Eddy '91 + '93, B'cuda A2E, '86 Trek Elance 400, '88 Centurion D.Scott Expert, '88 Fisher Mt Tam (and no longer with me: SE OM Flyer, Umezawa/B-stone/Samson NJS)
    Posts
    1,508
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a DA wheelset that I recently switched the axles to 100/110 to fit my old (1982) frame. It as about $70 for the set so not too cheap.

    Easy to do. The axle kits were at Tokyu Hands (a large national chain) and were from Shimano. The change over was fairly straightforward and it has been nice riding the lovely DA hubs on another bike!

    Dia Compe also makes their GranCompe hubs in 110 spacing in silver and black. Someone remind me--the shafts are filed/cut to 8mm/9mm?

  7. #7
    Worst mechanic ever Iser@n's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    84
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bexley View Post
    That's what I'm talkin about. I like this solution for the ease of changing cogs, too--but do the cogs seem good?

    Shimano front disc hubs are cheeaap in price. There's got to be a serious downside, no? It's kind of unclear w/regards to 110mm spacing, but I get the drift that the wheel will probably need to be dished if I want 42mm chainline. Hrm.

    Did you get a quote from them on the pre-polished one? My last time stripping and polishing anodized aluminum wasn't fun.
    Just mail the owner (max), he'll let you know. Won't be very cheap though. British labour...
    I didn't ask the price because i'm doing it myself. It's rainy this time of year, so got a lot of time in the evening. You'll have to dish it. I'm running my front chainring on the outside of a double shimano 600 cranck and it's almost perfect. With a 42mm it won't be. But that's just a guess. I'm not into chainlines. I just spoke the wheel and dish it to fit.

  8. #8
    A little North of Hell
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    4,410
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bexley View Post
    I read suggestions of this and that manufacturer planning on doing a 110mm hub, or something can be spaced down to 110mm, so I want to know if my options are as limited as they seem now. Basically, I'm too cheap for the standard options.
    John @ http://www.businesscycles.com/compspec.htm told me these can be spaced down to 112mm.

    SUZUE PRO-MAX SB REAR TRACK HUBS - 32 large flange rear track hubs with "fixed/free" sprocket threading. Sealed bearings. - $74.50 each.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    242
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Cant you get phil's in 110? and dura ace, maybe campy?

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    four 1 OHHH , Maryland
    My Bikes
    nagasawa, fuji track pro
    Posts
    2,596
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bexley View Post

    Budget is key and Novatec is the only thing I've found that doesn't break into Suzue, Dura-Ace or Phil's territory. How are the Novatec's, anyway?
    i have 110mm spaced sansins and 110mm spaced DAs. novatecs will work. i put them in the same class as formulas.

    so i assume u have a japanese njs frame?

    u can also respace a loose ball hub with the DA slotted axle kit.

    the 110mm spaced hubs i know of are DA, sansin, suntour, campy, phils, older bia stuff, novatec

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, jdms and fixedup and iser@n

    Any idea how much the DA kit goes for?

    I've got a few options now and I'm still considering that bolt-on XT hub--not necessarily because it's the cheapest, but I also enjoy circumventing needlessly expensive products.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    four 1 OHHH , Maryland
    My Bikes
    nagasawa, fuji track pro
    Posts
    2,596
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bexley View Post
    Thanks, jdms and fixedup and iser@n

    Any idea how much the DA kit goes for?

    I've got a few options now and I'm still considering that bolt-on XT hub--not necessarily because it's the cheapest, but I also enjoy circumventing needlessly expensive products.
    i bought one from japan for like 30$ or something shipped and considering that yellowjery wants like 18+ shipping for just the axle i thought it was worth* it.

    came with axle, nuts, cones...essentially everything you need to swap a 120mm spaced DA hub to 110mm.

    the most important part would be the cones... u could* always file the dropout to accomadate the 10mm axle if u didn't have the 8mm slotted axle.

  13. #13
    Senior Member parkerlewis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    440
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Damn! You really got the kit for $30? I know that wholesale is more than that.....
    I am talking about a front and rear kit, with both axles, washers for both, and cone nuts for the rear, and lock nuts for the rear. That is the complete set to change DA front and rear from 120/10 100/9 to 110/8 100/8....
    I sell them for $50.

    For what it is worth, any NJS/BIA hub ever made came in a 110 variety....then you have the phil/compe/nova etc....
    My NJS FRAMES and PARTS for sale now.... NJSFRAMES.BLOGSPOT.COM

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    four 1 OHHH , Maryland
    My Bikes
    nagasawa, fuji track pro
    Posts
    2,596
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by parkerlewis View Post
    Damn! You really got the kit for $30? I know that wholesale is more than that.....
    I am talking about a front and rear kit, with both axles, washers for both, and cone nuts for the rear, and lock nuts for the rear. That is the complete set to change DA front and rear from 120/10 100/9 to 110/8 100/8....
    I sell them for $50.
    i think it was like 36$ shipped actually. it wasn't more than 40$

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I can feel my idea of doing a budget build slipping away...

    ...not the first to have this happen, I'm sure. Still, there's no way I'm spending $300 on NJS hubs and $150 on an NJS seatpost. But am I cheap enough to go for that XT hub option?

    I can live with moderate dishing, I guess. I'm surprised I haven't heard any opinions against those XT hubs--maybe they are indeed a great compromise.

  16. #16
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Suburbia, CT
    My Bikes
    Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
    Posts
    5,636
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    XT hubs are pretty much bombproof. Any solution that uses a front hub as a rear hub is bound to need some fiddling though, so if you're prepared for that, go ahead.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
    Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It is
    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  17. #17
    Worst mechanic ever Iser@n's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    84
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    +1! In retrospect I could have bought a track hub in the States, especially knowing a euro will go for 2 dollars soon. But my bike is there to be ridden. It gets abused a lot. So why not choose for the same way motorbike-cogs are fitted? If it holds up on a Harley it will hold up on my bike. Never a stripped hub or slipping cog!

    But I'll eventually buy a nice set of Mack's or Phill's though, for the looks.

  18. #18
    Worst mechanic ever Iser@n's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    84
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just finished the polishing. Took me 10 minutes using a drill and a polish-thingy! If i had to do it all again it would take me under an hour.

    Too bad i ****ed up the flange on the non-drive side when I used a dremel to get the paint off. Caustic soda worked much better.

    The photo's aren't great, phonecamera and bad weather.




  19. #19
    どうでもいいよ
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    West Tokyo Japan
    Posts
    238
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nateintokyo View Post
    Dia Compe also makes their GranCompe hubs in 110 spacing in silver and black. Someone remind me--the shafts are filed/cut to 8mm/9mm?
    Yes Nate the shafts for the front are filed down and for the rear (last I checked my friends bike) the shaft itself is still "long" so threads stick out after tightening the wheel down.

    OP: Novatechs aren't bad. They are basically the same quality as Formula. Just swap out with some better bearings.

  20. #20
    untitled
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i spaced suzue pro max hubs to 110
    then filed the axle down to fit the frame
    eventually i found some sunshine 110 hubs and used those
    then my frame broke
    now i respaced the sunshine hubs and changed the axle for
    when i get my new frame that will be 120 with normal dropouts

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Iser@n, looking good!

    Thanks all. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and find a set of older NJS hubs (inspired by the reactions in my other "tell me how much to spend on this build" thread). I've seen old NJS hubs ridiculously inflated at round $400, but also some around $200, so I could do that. That may be nearly double the Novatecs, but $80 more for the right hubs in the scheme of things isn't much (a difference of two Kashimax TT protectors. Hah!).

    I realized that getting a temporary solution makes little sense if I'm going to replace it with a nice, matching set as soon as I can (it would be 6 months, tops).

    i spaced suzue pro max hubs to 110
    then filed the axle down to fit the frame
    eventually i found some sunshine 110 hubs and used those
    then my frame broke
    now i respaced the sunshine hubs and changed the axle for
    when i get my new frame that will be 120 with normal dropouts
    Yea, a scenario like that would be nice to avoid. What frame and how did you break it?

    So, what do you guys say to the price of $142 on this old Dura Ace hub (the one on the right; the left is a BIA hub at 120mm)? It's not great to be missing the nuts, but that's not a deal killer--not that this is a deal in the cheap sense. Whatever I would end up on the front won't match exactly, but the premium on a matching set of old NJS hubs is crazy; the front and rear alone tends to be much cheaper and more common than a set.

    Last edited by bexley; 03-20-08 at 01:47 PM.

  22. #22
    untitled
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    the hubs had nothing to do with the frame breaking
    also i paid 150 for my sunshine hubs as a set on ebay




  23. #23
    untitled
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    if you find some old 110 hubs it's easy to swap axles and respace them
    if you need 120 and normal axles in the future
    i just got an axle from the lbs for free


  24. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    the land of ice and snow
    Posts
    999
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    150 for a set, eh? Good find.

    the hubs had nothing to do with the frame breaking
    I didn't imply that. The scenario I want to avoid is playing musical chairs with hubs and axles instead of getting exactly what I need.

    But anyway, that was a nice frame. Sorry you lost it. What's your diagnosis of the break? Rust on the inside of the tubing was a factor?

  25. #25
    untitled
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    yeah i reread your post after i replied and figured you weren't implying that
    but
    i already had the pro max hubs before i got the 110 frame
    then filing the axle was a fix until i found the 110 hubs
    you should be able to use the 110 hubs for either application
    110 or 120

    the frame no rust at all thats just dirt in the pic
    i figure the tubing was for someone a lot lighter than me
    it didn't have a sticker so i don't know what the tubing was
    i weigh 195 and sometimes have 30 pounds of stuff in my bag
    and i ride pretty hard...no freestyling just mashing skids/skips
    i guess thems the breaks

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •