A stupid painting question
 

I was wondering if it's possible to rattlecan over a powdercoat. Could you sand it down, prime it and then paint? Or is it impossible? Thanks.

you could probably sand and primer it without problem, thought you would probably really be better off getting it re-powder coated...

anything is "possible"...but will it look good? maybe, depends how well you sand, primer and paint it. id just as soon get it redone though. buuut....if you spray it yourself with store bought spray paint, do yourself a favor and dont use any of the ***** out there like krylon or rutoleum...oh, and use bulldog surface prep...omg the best!

get some of this...amazing color selections from both companies!

http://www.mtncolors.com/

or

belton... http://artprimo.com/catalog/spray-pa...t-c-26_35.html

I was wondering whether it's even possible to get the powder coat off, sounds like it is.

Have fun with sanding powdercoat. I think it would be like trying to cut through a quality lock with a hacksaw. Sure you can do it, but it will take a long time.

Powdercoat is made to resist abrasion.

Indeed. May even be akin to cutting a u-lock with a nailfile.
In order to scuff powder to accept paint, you're looking at quite a haul. Powder is brutally hard. And I would check with a pc'er to see if paint will stick.

not AT ALL TRUE!

it's EASY to break a powdercoat (use any of the newer "3X" sandpapers) with a nice coarse grit like 120-150 (dry), and in fact it makes AN EXCELLENT "primer" or base for your next paint job, as powdercoats are STUCK to the metal much better than most paints.

use a GOOD quality spray can primer (no anything thats $3.00 a can is NOT good primer) go to an autobody supply shop (color shop) and get some SEM, or Evercoat, or U-Pol primer (it'll run you about $15-$20 a can), get the high build.

after sanding the powdercoat VERY WELL (no shiny spots):
(note: using red scotch brite pads, water, and a sanding paste makes this job EVEN FASTER)

give it a light initial coat of the primer, and wait a good half hour, THEN give it nice wet couple of coats, and then let that cure out for a day or two before sanding and re-painting.


I did it all the time in the motorcycle painting business, and in fact one of my old clients (can't figure out I'm retired) just dropped off a side cover that is powdercoated, that I'm supposed to "strip and paint", but I'm not stripping it, I'm just using the above method (except not with spraycan paints).

Sorry to necropost but I thought that it was relevant to the thread. Would I be able to some how sand down or strip the chrome on a 2007 pista fork so that I could primer and spray paint it? Thank you.

"necropost"? (I'm obviously internet illiterate) :p

I'll assume your rattle-canning it so,........

painting over chrome isn't THAT tough,.....all you need to do is scuff the chrome with a RED SCOTCH PAD, and I'd also recommend using a sanding paste (google 3M "scuff-it") and water so you get an even scuff.

once the surface is nice and dull all over (NO SHINY SPOTS!!! or it's gunna peel!) wipe it down with rubbing alcohol, and then windex,......after the windex step don't touch the fork anymore with your bare hands, ALWAYS use gloves.

you basically have two choices

1) TIE COAT: use BULLDOG adhesion promoter directly over the dulled chrome and let sit for the recommended time listed on the label, then prime with any kind of non sanding primer (BUT DO NOT USE ETCHING PRIMER!!) and paint.

or,...

2) ETCHING PRIMER: using a HIGH QUALITY ETCH PRIMER (like U-pol or SEM) directly over the dulled chrome,.... shoot a nice even coat of the etch and let it sit for the recommended time listed on the label.
once the etch primer has cured, again use any kind of non sanding primer, let sit for the recommended time listed on the label, and then paint.

don't hose the thing down with multiple coats of ANY of these, but be SURE it's all covered evenly. piling on multiple coats results in a soft paintjob that never fully cures and is very easily damaged.

I'd also recommend getting a custom spray can made up at an autobody supply house (color shop) or online at one of the many "custom spray can" outlets.
get the can made up in acrylic enamel if at all possible, for good durability.

sorry to necro-reply :p

Haha thanks for the great info. By the way, from urban dictionary: "

To bring life to a dead thread; to post in a thread that hasn't had any new posts for a considerable amount of time" :)

just take it to get sand blasted, it will cost you probably $30-40, but the amount of time that it will save you from all that dang sanding by hand you could put a few more hours in at work/mowing lawns/etc and still walk away with money for beer after paying for the sandblasting.
Made that mistake once, won't again.

Plus, primer and then paint layers down like butter after sandblasting. The biggest
part in making sure you get a good to great paint job is all in prep prep prep.

it's a fork,...were talking about 10 minutes with the red scotch pad and a scuff paste, clean it up and then shoot.

but I agree, sandblasting is by far the easiest, and you get the best adhesion.

but the tie coat or the etch primer work just as well, IF you prep clean

would this work w/ using some kind of cheap power sander tool?

sorry if this is really old, BUT:
How can I tell if my frame is powder coated? It sounds like its tough and my frames paint job has scratches galore in it, so I'm assuming it isn't. Psst by the way, my frame is a Suteki frame, maroon with the gold embelem, I know its probably not too cost efficient to repaint it but I want to see the options to see if its possible to rattle can it for cheap enough to be worth it.